Originally Posted by ctwentytwo

The green areas is where the cracks were. It was pretty bad, but the structure was still pretty good. The red areas are where the CF is still present, but resin had to be filled over it because the area was crushed inward.

I "V" cut the green areas (slant cut the cracks) with a dremel so that the resin would hang on it and to remove loose debris.

Use epoxy resin used for marine (boat) use. Do an "epoxy resin vs. polyester resin (the stuff you can get a Wal-Mart... under the Bondo brand) and you can find out the positives of using epoxy resin. You'll need the resin, as well as a hardener. Get a gel viscosity hardener so that the resin is less runny... you want a gel consistency.

If you need structural integrity, buy fiberglass cloth and soak it in the resin and put it behind the crack, then fill in the crack. In this case, I could not put cloth behind the crack cause the skirts are shaped that they are hollow. I just used enough epoxy to make sure it is tough enough to take the bumps and vibrations of road use.

Or you can use something called "solarez." Get the epoxy version. It's used to fill in dings for surboards, and dries very quickly. It is easier to use. It comes in a tube, and you just apply, set it in the sun to harden, and in 30min, you can shape.

I used epoxy solarez for the cracks cause it does not run, and used 2-part marine epoxy resin to fill in the red parts in the picture that was "pushed in."

The marine resin comes out more clear, although Solarez is clear if it's a thin layer.

After you fill, sand to shape, then use fine grit sandpaper to smooth, then buff with a buffer to shine.

In this case, buffing it out shows the CF damage. The side skirt will be painted... at least part of it.

Originally Posted by ctwentytwo

God, now I want the Chargespeed sides, with the Varis Arising 1 rears (vortex generators).