Blue LED Gauge Conversion FAQ
12-29-2008, 05:47 PM
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Blue LED Gauge Conversion FAQ
I am starting this thread to record what I think will be common questions when doing a blue LED mod. I am in the process of doing a blue LED mod and am finding that the instructions have some gaps. I couldn't find anyone to answer my questions... everyone seems very hush hush about the specifics of how to do this. Here is my contribution.
This is not intended to be instructional; Acree's thread gives a good base of how to do this. This thread is intended to fill in the blanks. I'll add to it as I get further along.
The meter tests were done using a crappy sears digital meter, your mileage may vary.
How do I know which way to face the LEDs?: The notch indicates which end is the anode or cathode. Note that not all LEDs have the notch indicating the same thing (some will mark the cathode with the notch, some the anode). Use a digital meter on the continuity setting to determine which end of the factory LED is which: when you hook the meter to each end of the LED, it should push just enough current to light the LED. Switch the red and black probes endwise until you get it to light. You can do this while the factory LED is still on the board. Remember which probe (red or black) went on each side of the factory LED. Now line up a replacement LED and orient it so it lights up with the probes in the same position as the factory LED. This will ensure you have the LED oriented properly. If it is a four pin LED you can test it by putting the probes across the pins opposite each other. One combination will light up.
The factory LEDs have four pins, but the replacements have two: The factory LEDs have four pins, I believe these are called PLCC4. The replacements on ebay and referenced in Acree's thread are PLCC2 which have two pins. The LEDs are the same shape as stock, but on each end there is a single pin instead of two on each end. PLCC4 LEDs have three pins that are the same (either all anode or all cathode), and one that is different. The PLCC2 LEDs have one cathode and one anode. What you need to do is figure out which pins on the factory LEDs are the same - this is easy with a meter that does continuity; three will show continuity while the fourth will not. What you want to do is connect the new two pin LED to only two of the four pins. Do not let the contacts touch the two pads you are trying to leave blank, or the LED won't light. Connect it to the pin that is the non-continuous of the four, and the one across from it. Use the meter method above to ensure you hook the two pin LED up in the right direction (check the two pins across from each other on the factory one until the LED lights, then do the same with the replacement to determine its orientation before swapping them).
How can I check my soldering job before hooking it up in the car: While it is not a test of how well your solder joints will hold up in the real world, this is a test of whether you have them wired in the right direction and don't have a pin shorted on something it shouldn't be. Use the continuity setting on your digital meter with the red and black on the same pins they were to light the factory LED. If the LED lights up you are good.
Are the ebay LED kit instructions decent?: Yes, they are decent, but they are not good enough to complete the job correctly. See the four pin two pin discussion above. The other issue with the ebay instructions is that they tell you to replace more LEDs than you should. Unless you want blue needles (which wont work anyway since the plastic is tinted red), do not replace the LEDs for the needles even though the instructions tell you to. Also, the instructions tell you to replace the LEDs for the VDC, Slip, and shift light with blue ones. I preferred to leave them amber since they are indicator lights and I want them to stand out.
I did the three gauges in the center first, and want to test them, but they wont turn on: These won't light unless your main cluster is hooked up.
This is not intended to be instructional; Acree's thread gives a good base of how to do this. This thread is intended to fill in the blanks. I'll add to it as I get further along.
The meter tests were done using a crappy sears digital meter, your mileage may vary.
How do I know which way to face the LEDs?: The notch indicates which end is the anode or cathode. Note that not all LEDs have the notch indicating the same thing (some will mark the cathode with the notch, some the anode). Use a digital meter on the continuity setting to determine which end of the factory LED is which: when you hook the meter to each end of the LED, it should push just enough current to light the LED. Switch the red and black probes endwise until you get it to light. You can do this while the factory LED is still on the board. Remember which probe (red or black) went on each side of the factory LED. Now line up a replacement LED and orient it so it lights up with the probes in the same position as the factory LED. This will ensure you have the LED oriented properly. If it is a four pin LED you can test it by putting the probes across the pins opposite each other. One combination will light up.
The factory LEDs have four pins, but the replacements have two: The factory LEDs have four pins, I believe these are called PLCC4. The replacements on ebay and referenced in Acree's thread are PLCC2 which have two pins. The LEDs are the same shape as stock, but on each end there is a single pin instead of two on each end. PLCC4 LEDs have three pins that are the same (either all anode or all cathode), and one that is different. The PLCC2 LEDs have one cathode and one anode. What you need to do is figure out which pins on the factory LEDs are the same - this is easy with a meter that does continuity; three will show continuity while the fourth will not. What you want to do is connect the new two pin LED to only two of the four pins. Do not let the contacts touch the two pads you are trying to leave blank, or the LED won't light. Connect it to the pin that is the non-continuous of the four, and the one across from it. Use the meter method above to ensure you hook the two pin LED up in the right direction (check the two pins across from each other on the factory one until the LED lights, then do the same with the replacement to determine its orientation before swapping them).
How can I check my soldering job before hooking it up in the car: While it is not a test of how well your solder joints will hold up in the real world, this is a test of whether you have them wired in the right direction and don't have a pin shorted on something it shouldn't be. Use the continuity setting on your digital meter with the red and black on the same pins they were to light the factory LED. If the LED lights up you are good.
Are the ebay LED kit instructions decent?: Yes, they are decent, but they are not good enough to complete the job correctly. See the four pin two pin discussion above. The other issue with the ebay instructions is that they tell you to replace more LEDs than you should. Unless you want blue needles (which wont work anyway since the plastic is tinted red), do not replace the LEDs for the needles even though the instructions tell you to. Also, the instructions tell you to replace the LEDs for the VDC, Slip, and shift light with blue ones. I preferred to leave them amber since they are indicator lights and I want them to stand out.
I did the three gauges in the center first, and want to test them, but they wont turn on: These won't light unless your main cluster is hooked up.
Last edited by kroe; 12-29-2008 at 05:50 PM.
01-05-2009, 07:13 PM
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What do I need to make the OEM navigation buttons blue?: The OEM nav panel is easy to get apart, just don't be afraid to pull on the joystick end to get it off. The LEDs are 2mm 0805 or 1206 package (I don't think it matters which). I used 45 mcd blue LEDs - Mouser part # 638-172BHC-AN1P23T. There are 23 LEDs total on the board. If you thought the PLCC2 LEDs in the rest of the car are small you aren't going to believe these... they are about half the size. If you can solder the PLCC2 ones you can do these though, nothing too hard. No resistor changes necessary.
What do I need to make the stock radio controls and LCD blue?: I haven't finished the radio yet, waiting on parts. You'll need about 20 2mm LEDs as for the nav buttons and 20 3mm LEDs (I used 638-1221BHCAN192C). The radio is no harder than anything else to mod, just takes some *****. Once you have the board in hand, desolder the two supports for the metal shield over the display. Pry it back, the white plastic thing will come out. You need to bend the leads to the display to get it out of your way so you can replace the LEDs under it. Don't blame me if you break it, but it didn't break for me
. The screen turns a lightish blue, not the same blue as the other displays. It looks a lot better than the amber. I want to experiment with a clear diffuser under the LCD instead of the yellowish tinted one that comes in there... I'll keep you posted.
What do I need to make the stock radio controls and LCD blue?: I haven't finished the radio yet, waiting on parts. You'll need about 20 2mm LEDs as for the nav buttons and 20 3mm LEDs (I used 638-1221BHCAN192C). The radio is no harder than anything else to mod, just takes some *****. Once you have the board in hand, desolder the two supports for the metal shield over the display. Pry it back, the white plastic thing will come out. You need to bend the leads to the display to get it out of your way so you can replace the LEDs under it. Don't blame me if you break it, but it didn't break for me
. The screen turns a lightish blue, not the same blue as the other displays. It looks a lot better than the amber. I want to experiment with a clear diffuser under the LCD instead of the yellowish tinted one that comes in there... I'll keep you posted.
Last edited by kroe; 01-09-2009 at 07:05 PM.
01-09-2009, 07:15 PM
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Do I need to change resistors on the boards for the window and climate controls?: No, not necessary.
Can I mix and match colors?: Yes, even though red and blue have different ideal voltages, you can make some of them red and some blue without having to do anything magical. I really like having the nav joystick and radio **** red, with the rest of the stuff blue. I also used red for the on indicators for climate control.
How much money will this save me compared to having someone do this (there are people that do this for money, I am not one of them)?: Don't even think about doing this yourself to save money. The cost of quality gauge faces (I used black cat custom), plus the cost of all the LEDs will cost you around $200. If you can get someone to do it for you for anywhere near that, have them do it. I did it myself for two reasons: I wanted some components modified that nobody had done before (like the nav controls), and I enjoy tinkering. This takes a really long time, and there is the potential to screw up some expensive components. It's not impossible by any means... if you get electricity, can solder, can research online, and like to get into projects like this, then have fun!
How do I prevent hot spots in the main cluster?: I still don't have my gauge faces in... should be in this week. From the research I have done you have three options: live with the hot spots (most people who do the mod have them), tape regular paper where the hot spots are to dim the light, or if you really want to get crazy sand the printing off the stock gauge faces and put that behind your aftermarket ones as a diffuser.
Do I need to be really careful to get the exact same wavelength and brighness for different LED types I use?: No, I used the ebay "super blue" kit for the main cluster and triple gauge pod, as well as some of the other parts. I used a couple other brands and brightnesses of LED in various other components, and as long as you have it close you won't notice the difference between them.
Can I mix and match colors?: Yes, even though red and blue have different ideal voltages, you can make some of them red and some blue without having to do anything magical. I really like having the nav joystick and radio **** red, with the rest of the stuff blue. I also used red for the on indicators for climate control.
How much money will this save me compared to having someone do this (there are people that do this for money, I am not one of them)?: Don't even think about doing this yourself to save money. The cost of quality gauge faces (I used black cat custom), plus the cost of all the LEDs will cost you around $200. If you can get someone to do it for you for anywhere near that, have them do it. I did it myself for two reasons: I wanted some components modified that nobody had done before (like the nav controls), and I enjoy tinkering. This takes a really long time, and there is the potential to screw up some expensive components. It's not impossible by any means... if you get electricity, can solder, can research online, and like to get into projects like this, then have fun!
How do I prevent hot spots in the main cluster?: I still don't have my gauge faces in... should be in this week. From the research I have done you have three options: live with the hot spots (most people who do the mod have them), tape regular paper where the hot spots are to dim the light, or if you really want to get crazy sand the printing off the stock gauge faces and put that behind your aftermarket ones as a diffuser.
Do I need to be really careful to get the exact same wavelength and brighness for different LED types I use?: No, I used the ebay "super blue" kit for the main cluster and triple gauge pod, as well as some of the other parts. I used a couple other brands and brightnesses of LED in various other components, and as long as you have it close you won't notice the difference between them.
Last edited by kroe; 01-09-2009 at 09:02 PM.
01-09-2009, 08:41 PM
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Thanks, I guess someone is reading this thread .
The gauge faces should be in this week, so I'll take some pictures next weekend. At this point my car is in pieces. Everything is working and has been tested running for 10+ hours, but it's not going to be picture worthy until the faces are in.
.The gauge faces should be in this week, so I'll take some pictures next weekend. At this point my car is in pieces. Everything is working and has been tested running for 10+ hours, but it's not going to be picture worthy until the faces are in.
Last edited by kroe; 01-09-2009 at 08:47 PM.
01-09-2009, 08:43 PM
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Awesome, been searching for these kind of details. The other threads are a pain to read through. So the main question I have is Do you need to change the resistors on the main gauge or not? 
01-09-2009, 08:54 PM
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Oh crap, I just broke one of the leads on the circuit board, what now?: First off, stop rushing, take your time removing the LEDs so you don't rip the traces off the board again. Time to fix the one you screwed up. If one of the pads is intact, solder the LED to that one to keep it in place. Then take a small piece of wire, cut it to length, and run it from the lead of the LED the trace comes from, to the LED on the other side of the broken trace. Voila... fixed! If you screwed up both leads, or the traces pulled off the board but are still attached to your LED, super glue the LED down. I messed one up while rushing doing the small ones on the radio, and this method fixed it no problem.
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01-09-2009, 09:00 PM
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What is the best way to get the stock LEDs off the circuit board?: My preferred method is to apply heat to one side (I set my iron at 650 degrees) for 7 seconds, then the other for 7, then switch back and forth putting a little sideways pressure on the LED. Keep switching back and forth and applying gentle pressure until the LED comes off. If you are having a hard time getting them off, add a little solder to each side of the LED. This will give more mass to hold the heat in on one side while you switch to the other.
01-09-2009, 09:04 PM
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You do not need to change resistors on any circuit board in the entire car. Not even the window and climate control boards as suggested in Acree's original thread. This was confirmed by Acree via PM.
01-09-2009, 10:57 PM
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What is the best way to get the stock LEDs off the circuit board?: My preferred method is to apply heat to one side (I set my iron at 650 degrees) for 7 seconds, then the other for 7, then switch back and forth putting a little sideways pressure on the LED. Keep switching back and forth and applying gentle pressure until the LED comes off. If you are having a hard time getting them off, add a little solder to each side of the LED. This will give more mass to hold the heat in on one side while you switch to the other.
01-10-2009, 06:58 AM
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01-11-2009, 03:02 PM
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very nice write up 
,, i ordered my led's white from ebay ,, when they arrive i think ur guna have alot of pm's from me cuz im guna install them ,,
how much install time ?
how good is the quality of the led's ?
,, i ordered my led's white from ebay ,, when they arrive i think ur guna have alot of pm's from me cuz im guna install them ,, how much install time ?
how good is the quality of the led's ?
01-11-2009, 03:54 PM
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I don't really know how to judge LED quality... color is nice, and I don't expect them to burn out any time soon.
Install time depends on what you are modifying. Just the main cluster and triple gauge pod in the center would probably take 5 hours.
Install time depends on what you are modifying. Just the main cluster and triple gauge pod in the center would probably take 5 hours.
01-12-2009, 11:59 AM
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LED Conversion
kroe, i guess your purchase was through ebay for the led conversion. on my 350z i would like to change the stock orange led's for a white, similar to that of a Lexus IS model. i would be very interested to see your final piece and if interested which seller you recieved it from. This is the second mod i am doing to my 2007 350Z to go along with my sound system and customized box.
.. also bought the LED from ebay ..