You dont have to do anything - Seller sends the new shocks with the brackets ready to go. You just have to send him your blown shocks w/brackets ( brackets are saved for the next buyer). Seller takes care of everything already for you. You just have to install them.

 

yeah dk just informed me of that on his other thread.

what do the struts cost to ship? can you send em back in the original packaging?

 

8-10 bucks to ship (depending on method of shipping)

Yes - you can use the original packaging. simple cardboard tube with 2 plastic endcaps. Take one endcap off and install new shocks and put the old ones back in and ship them.. no fuss..

 

Not bashing or anything, i just can't justify the price of these struts...

 

compared to? (and dont posts no refurbs...Im talking about compared to BRAND NEW)

 

yeah, seems to be the best value if you are in need of them.

 

Plus - who out there has different strengths for those who have no spoiler, up to a big RICER spoiler.??..these can handle that. and then some..

 

Again......anybody?

 

The weight is around two pounds and located under the plastic cover attached to the hatch. It's actually screwed to the hatch. When I had my '03 Z I removed the weight after installing a fiberglass Stillen Replica Type 1 spoiler. That worked. for it.

On my '07 Z over the weekend I took the cover off to remove the weight due to my Stillen urethane Typre 1 spoiler causing the hatch to fall (when it's cold) and found there was no weight there. The screw holes were there but no weight. i don't know if the body shop removed it when they installed the spoiler, but I doubt they even knew it was there.

As far as taking the cover off, it's pretty easy. Just lift the edge of the cover up (you may need a butter knife or similar blade to start it) and slowly pull it away from the hatch. The clips which are snapped in place will pull out. There are quite a few (12+) all around the cover. They all came out, with only one actually breaking. The first time I did it on my '03 I think I broke 3 or 4 clips. The secret is pulling it slowly. I just used my hands to start it so I wouldn't scratch anything. It's really not too hard to do.

BTW, since I had no weight to remove, I decided to leave the cover off till the weather warms up to lighten the hatch and that seems to work. I'll put the cover back on when the night weather warms up since I have no problems with the hatch staying up in warm weather. Even now I only have problems on cold evenings here in the desert. I've noticed that if it's not too cold if I "pump" the hatch several times it will stay up. It seems that that builds up the presure in the shocks.

Hope this helps.

 

There's a guy on this forum that makes them of aircraft aluminum and they are considerably stronger than stock. My friend bought a set for his z and they're pretty strong. I upgraded to the Nismo OEM and I'm happy with them as well.

 

I agree with the fact that top end gas shocks are a little high on the price but if you buy the cheapest ones you can find they will almost always fail in cold weather. I used cheap ones on my tool box cabinet doors for my work truck and I'm on my third set with only 55000 km on the truck. I do work in some extreme weather though, we get temps as low as -50 c in winter up here but ive had them fail in -10 c.

 

After installing Nismo V1 spoiler, I replaced my shocks for about $50.
First, I went to nissanpart4u.com to pick up hatch strut studs ($37.50).
Next, go to NAPA and they have a series of struts in various lengths and forces. Tell a salesperson what you are trying to do, and they will let you try different ones in parking lot. I only paid $10 for a pair.
Sure, they don't look as good as OEM, but works perfectly.
During the summer time (around 85-95F), the struts get somewhat strong. During the winter time, they just work perfect. So, I put the counterweight back on during the summer.