Official vinyl wrapping thread.
#141
6 inch cawk is my fave!
iTrader: (3)
So I just attempted to wrap my roof and it was a pain in the ******* getting all the little air bubbles out, I managed to get almost all out but then I ripped an edge pulled the piece off again and moved it down but it was too stretched out at that point to get all the bubbles out again... Im pretty sure with a helper it would have been much easier...
Im just wondering if I should spring for the 3m next time.. I dont mind throwing the vivid junk in the trash ill be bummed throwing away 3m
Im just wondering if I should spring for the 3m next time.. I dont mind throwing the vivid junk in the trash ill be bummed throwing away 3m
#142
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
Quality vinyl will make the process very easy for you. Be sure to work from the center out to move the air towards the edges. Bubbles will appear when you seal the air in a section by pressing down the vinyl around it. Best of luck with the next attempt! You'll get better each time
#143
New Member
iTrader: (13)
Vvivid is the same as the eBay China stuff, just rebranded. If you search, all of their colors are exactly the same as the generic stuff. Even the installed example pics are the same. If vinyl tears it means its too cold for the install. Even 3m vinyl will tear when its cold. It stretches easily even the cheap stuff when its warm.
The cheap stuff tends to lift after its been installed. 3m doesn't lift and stays where you applied it, unless the surface wasn't prepped properly.
The cheap stuff tends to lift after its been installed. 3m doesn't lift and stays where you applied it, unless the surface wasn't prepped properly.
Last edited by mr. sparco; 04-15-2016 at 03:02 PM.
#144
6 inch cawk is my fave!
iTrader: (3)
I wasn't completely unimpressed with the product, I think it probably would have been fine if I had help and didn't pull it off and stretch the **** out of it... I was more or less just practicing with it, if it had come out good I probably would have kept it temporarily buy i just couldn't get all the bubbles out after I pulled the entire sheet up and moved it...
I started in my ghetto garage but then moved into the sun... The sun made it very flexible and much better to work with. Just needed an extra set of hands.
Ive used 3m before and it was a much better product I just got this cheapo stuff from Amazon so I can work out the bugs..
One thing I shouldn't do for next round is play with the dog right before the process... The dog hair was floating around like a magic trick.
I started in my ghetto garage but then moved into the sun... The sun made it very flexible and much better to work with. Just needed an extra set of hands.
Ive used 3m before and it was a much better product I just got this cheapo stuff from Amazon so I can work out the bugs..
One thing I shouldn't do for next round is play with the dog right before the process... The dog hair was floating around like a magic trick.
Last edited by dboyzalter; 04-15-2016 at 03:44 PM.
#152
New Member
iTrader: (24)
Prepping Poly or FG for vinyl
Got all the pieces of my body kit in and Im planning on getting the car wrapped.
I know I need to prep polyurethane and I think fiberglass in some way, before wrapping it, so that it sticks properly.
Iv taken random times in the past two weeks googling with no real luck finding an answer to my specific question.
My plan is to call the shop Ill be getting it wrapped at but until then I wanted to see if any one might know
thanks.
I know I need to prep polyurethane and I think fiberglass in some way, before wrapping it, so that it sticks properly.
Iv taken random times in the past two weeks googling with no real luck finding an answer to my specific question.
My plan is to call the shop Ill be getting it wrapped at but until then I wanted to see if any one might know
thanks.
#154
New Member
iTrader: (13)
Urethane: Clean with Simple Green, wash with warm water and dish washing detergent, wash and rinse again. If its perfectly smooth there's no need for any wet sanding. If its not, wet sand with 600 grit. 3M Primer edges and corners.
Fiberglass: Prep with typical body work, 2 part paint primer, wet sand till smooth. Wrap.
Fiberglass: Prep with typical body work, 2 part paint primer, wet sand till smooth. Wrap.
The following users liked this post:
zerafian (05-08-2016)
#155
New Member
iTrader: (24)
Urethane: Clean with Simple Green, wash with warm water and dish washing detergent, wash and rinse again. If its perfectly smooth there's no need for any wet sanding. If its not, wet sand with 600 grit. 3M Primer edges and corners.
Fiberglass: Prep with typical body work, 2 part paint primer, wet sand till smooth. Wrap.
Fiberglass: Prep with typical body work, 2 part paint primer, wet sand till smooth. Wrap.
#158
New Member
iTrader: (13)
Carbon has its drawbacks too, less prep but you can also see any waves or inconsistent surface issues once wrapped. You can't fix that on carbon unless you don't care and primer over it. Another problem with carbon is if the resin isn't fully 100% cured you might not be able to take the wrap off later on.
#160
New Member
iTrader: (13)
You have some options: You could sand it then clearcoat, or primer and paint, or primer and wrap.
Those "cf" hoods are actually just fiberglass with a single layer of carbon for aesthetics. Real carbon fiber hoods are made with dry carbon and all layers being carbon with proper resin:composite ratio. Those are generally in the 2k+ price range. I've only seen a couple of members on here with true dry carbon pieces in the last 10 years.
Those "cf" hoods are actually just fiberglass with a single layer of carbon for aesthetics. Real carbon fiber hoods are made with dry carbon and all layers being carbon with proper resin:composite ratio. Those are generally in the 2k+ price range. I've only seen a couple of members on here with true dry carbon pieces in the last 10 years.