2005 350Z

I'm messing with stereo and wires in the dash, and while doing so, I thought would to try and repair the broken flip door in the dash bezel. (And paint up some scuffs, etc as well) The way it is now, the door is not connected at the top, and doesn't catch at the bottom, it's just kind of sitting in there. The original head unit is gone there there is a 1 DIN Kenwood below where this flip panel sits. I took it out, and attached pictures. The spring unit on the top seems to work. (Dang strong spring for a plastic door) Can anyone tell me how to reattach the door to the metal swing bar and have it latch properly at the bottom? I would guess I have a couple parts that may be missing. Any insight appreciated, and thanks in advance! Sorry pictures are so big. I'm not sure how to make them smaller.


Door & Latch

Piece that attaches to back of door. Have to remove to get the latch out.

Pocket Front

Pocket Top.

 

Ok, I have done some digging and examined the mechanism more closely and I believe I can get it reattached. Will report back if successful. I was missing the finisher piece at the front bottom of the cubby where it latches and have procured one. I don't believe I am missing any other other pieces, but if anyone looks at the pictures and sees that I am, please let me know. Thank You!

 

Nissan changed the design in 2006, so the latch mechanism is different on mine. But it should be pretty straightforward for how to re-attach the hinge bracket (don't think they changed that component).

For paint repair. I recommend using denatured alcohol to clean and remove any loose factory paint (stuff is junk). Trying to color match is difficult. I was able to get extremely close using SEM branded interior paints (rattle cans) and blending their limo flat black (finishing coats) with landau black (foundation coats). The Rustoleum flat black is also very close on it's own and very affordable/easy to find. Just be very gentle when cleaning to keep the texture intact (I used a toothbrush). Also do multiple light coats to prevent runs and covering up the factory texture. I went a bit nuts when I repainted my interior bits, I built a paint booth with an exhaust fan and filter system. I also used a tack cloth to remove any dust/particulates before starting to paint any pieces. I got excellent results in the end.

Cheers!
-Icer

 

Here are some photos of the spring/hinge mechanism. I took these so I could remember how to reassembly mine after the paint work. Note: there should be plastic pieces that attach to the metal hinge frame (see pics).
Cheers!
-Icer

 

As for attaching to the door. I think its screwed into place either directly to the main door (front) panel or to the plastic clamshell piece that sits on the inside. I just remember a bunch of coarse thread philips screws of varying sizes. You really should remove the metal hinge portion from the cubby to properly re-attach the door and latch pieces.
Cheers!
-Icer

 

Yes, that is the plan, to remove the hinge. It almost looks as if the door was held to the metal hinge by one large pin in the middle, which is broken on mine, and then several of the plastic "mushrooms" and it appears my mushrooms have all popped their tops. For the center, I may drill a small hole through and use a countersunk small bolt or perhaps I could use one of the serrated push in body clips. The square openings at the ends of the hinges it looks like somehow there were screws there, but I think there must have been some small connectors that linked the square holes to the little screw holes and I don't have those. So it will take some thinking and creativity for sure. Thanks, yet again.

 

Oh! I remember now. The metal piece was plastic welded to the cubby door (outer piece with texture), it was never meant to be "removable". I remember having to mask off the metal side brackets during the paint process.

You can try plastic welding it back together, but I doubt you have a plastic welder on hand. If there's enough "meat" in the plastic, I would try installing some new screws and/or using some epoxy. Once it's all back together, you won't ever see it, so it doesn't need to look "pretty", just be functional/sturdy.

Cheers!
-Icer

 

Post a picture of the back of the backside of the outer cubby door.
-Icer

 

Here it is. A little hard to see with the primer but the 4 little nubs across the top to the sides of the middle clip look like they went through the corresponding holes on the metal bracket and were mushroomed. Then the screw post in the middle under the clip is also broken off. I don't have an official plastic welder, but I do have a soldering iron and some zip ties for solder if that's the way I need to go.

 

You can give it a shot, but it may not melt/stick well now that some primer has been laid down.
-Icer

 

Yeah, I thought of that myself. (After I primered it) I'll sand & scuff the nubs first.

 

Ok, got the door reattached and it works great. Decided to just use two lathe screws through the outside of the door. Not 100% perfect, but looks 90% good and it works. Here is what was done if it may help someone else. Reattaching the springs wasn't bad at all.

Here are the clips and screws used. The lathe screws are #6 x 9/16. You could go a little longer, 5/8 or maybe even 3/4, but 9/16 is what I had. Painted the heads with same Matte Black used for the lid.


We removed the metal bracket from the cubby and inserted plastic clips through from the top. This is the bottom view after reattaching. Drilled small holes through and used the lathe screws to secure the door to the bracket.


Dusted the screw heads with matching Matte Black paint afterwards to conceal the small paint scrapes from the screwdriver. (This was before the dusting)



The clips and screw tip were hitting two tabs on top of the cubby. Removed the bracket again and snipped off the tabs with small Knipex cutters. Also snipped small area perpendicular to where the tabs were.


Here is the final result. The screw heads easily clear the waterfall piece above them when opening & closing.

 

Well it works and if you're happy with it, that's what matters. If the screws are ever a bother, you can always pickup a used cubby on Ebay or from a wrecker down the road.
Cheers!
-Icer

 

Well, the screws and clips cost me 2 cents, while a used working cubby on EBAY goes for between $120 and $300. No junkyard Z's in my area with any interior left in them. So I think I'll be able to tolerate the two screws. As there is some clearance above them, someday I might replace them with more attractive button or socket cap allen heads if needed.