?Some advice on my engine rebuild?
12-13-2004, 08:37 PM
#1
Sponsor
builtZmotors
builtZmotors
Thread Starter
iTrader: (21)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 2,780
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
?Some advice on my engine rebuild?
So as many of you heard, another one bit the dust, my engine blew sat night...i've moved on, and now i have to rebuild! Thanks gq_626, gurgen, goingdeep, for all your sympathy, support, and advice...sniff, sniff
ok..so really now, I'd like to klnow anyone's opinion on the necessity of getting a better plenum and high flow cat/test pipes during this entire ordeal... or would it matter if i added that in 3-4 montghs from now?
let me explain my current situation:
I am trying to accumulate ALL of my future engine parts that i orginally just "wanted" (now i NEED) so that when I rebuild here soon, I can save on labor costs while the motor is out of the car.
I have ordered so far:
-Arias pistons (9.0:1)
-Pauter Rods (i may have to get a different brand, these may take a while to get-only part really holding me up now, ANY SUGGESTIONS on other rods?)
-ATS twin carbon clutch / flywheel
-RC 550 injectors
-AAM fuel system
-NGK one step colder plugs
-Nissan overhaul gasket set
-Nissan oil pump
-Nissan clutch release bearing
-ARP main and head studs
Need to order:
-Used Block (more than likely, will know next week when my motor is pulled)
-wastegate springs
-Nissan main and rod bearings (the machine shop will order these)
To those of you who have already done the rebuild, any hints, parts I'm missing, advice???
THANKS EVERYONE!
ok..so really now, I'd like to klnow anyone's opinion on the necessity of getting a better plenum and high flow cat/test pipes during this entire ordeal... or would it matter if i added that in 3-4 montghs from now?
let me explain my current situation:
I am trying to accumulate ALL of my future engine parts that i orginally just "wanted" (now i NEED) so that when I rebuild here soon, I can save on labor costs while the motor is out of the car.
I have ordered so far:
-Arias pistons (9.0:1)
-Pauter Rods (i may have to get a different brand, these may take a while to get-only part really holding me up now, ANY SUGGESTIONS on other rods?)
-ATS twin carbon clutch / flywheel
-RC 550 injectors
-AAM fuel system
-NGK one step colder plugs
-Nissan overhaul gasket set
-Nissan oil pump
-Nissan clutch release bearing
-ARP main and head studs
Need to order:
-Used Block (more than likely, will know next week when my motor is pulled)
-wastegate springs
-Nissan main and rod bearings (the machine shop will order these)
To those of you who have already done the rebuild, any hints, parts I'm missing, advice???
THANKS EVERYONE!
12-13-2004, 11:17 PM
#2
Sponsor
Forged Internals.com
Forged Internals.com
Crower has rods out, might want to see if SGP Racing has any in stock, they list them on their site: http://store.yahoo.com/sgpracing-sto...rrodsvq35.html
12-14-2004, 10:43 AM
#6
New Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Melville, NY
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Im not sure of the plenum... I plan on goning with APS when i do my engine build... I have the helix test pipes on right now and they seem to be worth it..
The only suggestion I can say is... well the good thing.... is that those two things can be done after your engine is ready... so no rush deciding right now.. both will obviously help you out..
Did you think of larger injectors if you plan on more boost? Or does that come with the fuel system?
The only suggestion I can say is... well the good thing.... is that those two things can be done after your engine is ready... so no rush deciding right now.. both will obviously help you out..
Did you think of larger injectors if you plan on more boost? Or does that come with the fuel system?
Trending Topics
12-15-2004, 06:59 PM
#8
Sponsor
builtZmotors
builtZmotors
Thread Starter
iTrader: (21)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 2,780
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Please give some replies to the following advice from a guy with supra experience, he is giving some recommendations on the 350z motor build...what do you guys think???
"350Z is a good platform, but
reliability is one main reason I went with the Supra.
Bottom end holds insane power with near factory
reliability thanks to the one extra main.
Looks to me like you basically have the bases covered
except a few things I would like to reccomend. I'll
check into these also if you think it would be a good
idea... Get the new block surfaced and the heads
milled. Both mating surfaces should be milled and
polished out to a mirror finish. Then use 1.5mm or
1.8mm metal head gaskets. At the boost levels you'll
be running... spark knock/detonation and gasket
push/leak could be a serious issue. If I remember
correctly the 350Z uses an organic factory gasket
which over time can allow some seepage of coolant..
that causes pitting in the mating surfaces and can
result in gasket blowouts at high boost during knock.
Also, you can use the factory crank but I highly
suggest using clevite bearings all around. These are
spin resistant and can handle much more abuse and
pressure than factory bearings. Could also save you
from scaring your crank over time. Also, Im not sure
what setup you have for your PCV system, however, I
use a vaccum assisted PCV with catch can on the Supra.
In most boost cases the crank case cannot natrually
vent the pressure needed by itself. Under high boost,
high load demand, the vaccum assists in sucking the
crankcase gasses out of the bottom end and routes them
back into the plenum. Using the catch can will
prevent the oily residue from building up a sludge in
your intake/intercooler system.
You might already know all that stuff and you may
already have a catch can installed and the MHG's and
all.. "
PLEASE GIVE COMMENTS ON THE ABOVE IF YOU HAVE SOME!!
-T
"350Z is a good platform, but
reliability is one main reason I went with the Supra.
Bottom end holds insane power with near factory
reliability thanks to the one extra main.
Looks to me like you basically have the bases covered
except a few things I would like to reccomend. I'll
check into these also if you think it would be a good
idea... Get the new block surfaced and the heads
milled. Both mating surfaces should be milled and
polished out to a mirror finish. Then use 1.5mm or
1.8mm metal head gaskets. At the boost levels you'll
be running... spark knock/detonation and gasket
push/leak could be a serious issue. If I remember
correctly the 350Z uses an organic factory gasket
which over time can allow some seepage of coolant..
that causes pitting in the mating surfaces and can
result in gasket blowouts at high boost during knock.
Also, you can use the factory crank but I highly
suggest using clevite bearings all around. These are
spin resistant and can handle much more abuse and
pressure than factory bearings. Could also save you
from scaring your crank over time. Also, Im not sure
what setup you have for your PCV system, however, I
use a vaccum assisted PCV with catch can on the Supra.
In most boost cases the crank case cannot natrually
vent the pressure needed by itself. Under high boost,
high load demand, the vaccum assists in sucking the
crankcase gasses out of the bottom end and routes them
back into the plenum. Using the catch can will
prevent the oily residue from building up a sludge in
your intake/intercooler system.
You might already know all that stuff and you may
already have a catch can installed and the MHG's and
all.. "
PLEASE GIVE COMMENTS ON THE ABOVE IF YOU HAVE SOME!!
-T
12-16-2004, 08:44 AM
#10
Sponsor
builtZmotors
builtZmotors
Thread Starter
iTrader: (21)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Albuquerque, NM
Posts: 2,780
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
a guy that was helping me hunt down some parts that i need for my motor buildup...he owns a supra and i think is speaking mostly from his experience with that motor, i think he is mostly making speculations on the vq35 and assuming that some of the same concerns with the supra platform may carry over to the vq.
i ordered the nisdsan gasket overhaul set..that is the recommendation i was given, i was told those gaskets can handle the power, does anyone know if they are indeed an organic materal?
also, would the cometic gaskets be necessary?
thanks!,
TODD
i ordered the nisdsan gasket overhaul set..that is the recommendation i was given, i was told those gaskets can handle the power, does anyone know if they are indeed an organic materal?
also, would the cometic gaskets be necessary?
thanks!,
TODD
12-31-2004, 08:27 PM
#12
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Man in the Sun
Posts: 2,222
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by 350zDCalb
Please give some replies to the following advice from a guy with supra experience, he is giving some recommendations on the 350z motor build...what do you guys think???
"350Z is a good platform, but
reliability is one main reason I went with the Supra.
Bottom end holds insane power with near factory
reliability thanks to the one extra main.
Looks to me like you basically have the bases covered
except a few things I would like to reccomend. I'll
check into these also if you think it would be a good
idea... Get the new block surfaced and the heads
milled. Both mating surfaces should be milled and
polished out to a mirror finish. Then use 1.5mm or
1.8mm metal head gaskets. At the boost levels you'll
be running... spark knock/detonation and gasket
push/leak could be a serious issue. If I remember
correctly the 350Z uses an organic factory gasket
which over time can allow some seepage of coolant..
that causes pitting in the mating surfaces and can
result in gasket blowouts at high boost during knock.
Also, you can use the factory crank but I highly
suggest using clevite bearings all around. These are
spin resistant and can handle much more abuse and
pressure than factory bearings. Could also save you
from scaring your crank over time. Also, Im not sure
what setup you have for your PCV system, however, I
use a vaccum assisted PCV with catch can on the Supra.
In most boost cases the crank case cannot natrually
vent the pressure needed by itself. Under high boost,
high load demand, the vaccum assists in sucking the
crankcase gasses out of the bottom end and routes them
back into the plenum. Using the catch can will
prevent the oily residue from building up a sludge in
your intake/intercooler system.
You might already know all that stuff and you may
already have a catch can installed and the MHG's and
all.. "
PLEASE GIVE COMMENTS ON THE ABOVE IF YOU HAVE SOME!!
-T
Please give some replies to the following advice from a guy with supra experience, he is giving some recommendations on the 350z motor build...what do you guys think???
"350Z is a good platform, but
reliability is one main reason I went with the Supra.
Bottom end holds insane power with near factory
reliability thanks to the one extra main.
Looks to me like you basically have the bases covered
except a few things I would like to reccomend. I'll
check into these also if you think it would be a good
idea... Get the new block surfaced and the heads
milled. Both mating surfaces should be milled and
polished out to a mirror finish. Then use 1.5mm or
1.8mm metal head gaskets. At the boost levels you'll
be running... spark knock/detonation and gasket
push/leak could be a serious issue. If I remember
correctly the 350Z uses an organic factory gasket
which over time can allow some seepage of coolant..
that causes pitting in the mating surfaces and can
result in gasket blowouts at high boost during knock.
Also, you can use the factory crank but I highly
suggest using clevite bearings all around. These are
spin resistant and can handle much more abuse and
pressure than factory bearings. Could also save you
from scaring your crank over time. Also, Im not sure
what setup you have for your PCV system, however, I
use a vaccum assisted PCV with catch can on the Supra.
In most boost cases the crank case cannot natrually
vent the pressure needed by itself. Under high boost,
high load demand, the vaccum assists in sucking the
crankcase gasses out of the bottom end and routes them
back into the plenum. Using the catch can will
prevent the oily residue from building up a sludge in
your intake/intercooler system.
You might already know all that stuff and you may
already have a catch can installed and the MHG's and
all.. "
PLEASE GIVE COMMENTS ON THE ABOVE IF YOU HAVE SOME!!
-T
12-31-2004, 08:29 PM
#13
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Man in the Sun
Posts: 2,222
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by westpak
Is anybody doing engine builds replacing any additional things like:
Valve Springs
Camshaft
Connecting rod bolts (do these come with forged rods?)
Is anybody doing engine builds replacing any additional things like:
Valve Springs
Camshaft
Connecting rod bolts (do these come with forged rods?)
01-02-2005, 09:01 PM
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: SoCal
Posts: 142
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by westpak
Is anybody doing engine builds replacing any additional things like:
Valve Springs
Camshaft
Connecting rod bolts (do these come with forged rods?)
Is anybody doing engine builds replacing any additional things like:
Valve Springs
Camshaft
Connecting rod bolts (do these come with forged rods?)
OEM Nissan head gaskets are metal
01-02-2005, 09:53 PM
#15
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Carrollton TX
Posts: 963
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would look into JWT valve springs and sgp's ti retainers for added security on the head wether or not you planning on doing anything to it. Also most machine shops will automatically resurface the block top and heads for a good fit between them. Standard practice. As for the thicker gaskets, at your compression you be able to push up to 600 on a stock nissan gasket. Done by SGP. Just my .02. You are on the right track for sure. Good luck with your build. 
01-03-2005, 11:36 AM
#17
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Carrollton TX
Posts: 963
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by gq_626
Would changing valve springs, but keeping the cam and valves stock cause any issues? Id like to have the piece of mind to rev my car higher.
Would changing valve springs, but keeping the cam and valves stock cause any issues? Id like to have the piece of mind to rev my car higher.
Really I don't think it will at least that is what JWT told me. I am trying to keep the car as stock running as possible, But at the same time it would really suck if I sunk a valve.
01-04-2005, 04:28 PM
#19
SFZCC
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Lake Worth, FL
Posts: 7,419
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sorry Todd, but here goes another part I was wandering about.
Anyone installing or thinking about the oil pump? Not so much for higher pressure but for higher flow? and/or and oil cooler kit?
Anyone installing or thinking about the oil pump? Not so much for higher pressure but for higher flow? and/or and oil cooler kit?
01-04-2005, 07:49 PM
#20
SFZCC
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Lake Worth, FL
Posts: 7,419
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
OK, one more. I don't know if they are out there for the VQ35DE, but what about better bearings? I know SGP is coating them but still stock bearings, are there performance/racing bearings out there we could/should use?