Which SUPERCHARGER is least likely...
#161
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How much $$$ have you spent to get to this?
Originally Posted by weslutes
The Stillen is upgradable,it just takes a lot of bugging the R&D team.
-First I started with stage 2(dyno at 300hp&tq across the whole sheet)
-Then a few months later I upgraded to the stage 3.(approx. 330hp&tq)
-Then I upgraded the intercooler fluid with water wetter.(lower cyl temp.)
-I still wanted more power up top, so I invested in a ZEX kit with all the goodies.I started with a 55 shot but you can start with a 35shot then move up in a few months.(55 shot put me at a conservitave 375hp&tq)
-Last,I bought a larger 7th injector & a bigger fuel pump along with some shorter belts,custom pulleys(8-9lbs), and a NX intercooler sprayer.
I'm still waiting to install the last because it takes over a month notice for custom tuning on Stillen's dyno.
With 8lbs, I should push 360 with my 5AT.
I plan on shooting a 35 shot which should bump me up to about 400hp.
Now remember,the SC steals a good 20-40 hp at that speed.So,with a good tune I should be safe.
side note: I have an Auto.When I went to stage 3,there was so much power that it shifted back & forth due to the open diff.(It was tricky& kinda scary some times) I then upgraded the rear end to a closed diff.(KAAZ) and that fixed everything.Now I can drift while sipping a coffee.
-First I started with stage 2(dyno at 300hp&tq across the whole sheet)
-Then a few months later I upgraded to the stage 3.(approx. 330hp&tq)
-Then I upgraded the intercooler fluid with water wetter.(lower cyl temp.)
-I still wanted more power up top, so I invested in a ZEX kit with all the goodies.I started with a 55 shot but you can start with a 35shot then move up in a few months.(55 shot put me at a conservitave 375hp&tq)
-Last,I bought a larger 7th injector & a bigger fuel pump along with some shorter belts,custom pulleys(8-9lbs), and a NX intercooler sprayer.
I'm still waiting to install the last because it takes over a month notice for custom tuning on Stillen's dyno.
With 8lbs, I should push 360 with my 5AT.
I plan on shooting a 35 shot which should bump me up to about 400hp.
Now remember,the SC steals a good 20-40 hp at that speed.So,with a good tune I should be safe.
side note: I have an Auto.When I went to stage 3,there was so much power that it shifted back & forth due to the open diff.(It was tricky& kinda scary some times) I then upgraded the rear end to a closed diff.(KAAZ) and that fixed everything.Now I can drift while sipping a coffee.
#162
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Thanks Tony, that was exactly my point.
As for pricing the stillen cost me 5k and they were running a buy a stage 2 get a free hood special at stillen. If you buy through one of their retailers they have some room to work. I bought through AAM.
So figure:
5000 for the kit
500 for a good paint job.
700 for install
250 for taxes and incidentals (they always come up)
225 for warranty
_______
6675 and out the door
and that was it. I am not arguing the APS, that is a different league and I would have loved it. Any TT is going to cost you 40 hours for install. The stillen cost me 10 hours at $69 an hour.
As for pricing the stillen cost me 5k and they were running a buy a stage 2 get a free hood special at stillen. If you buy through one of their retailers they have some room to work. I bought through AAM.
So figure:
5000 for the kit
500 for a good paint job.
700 for install
250 for taxes and incidentals (they always come up)
225 for warranty
_______
6675 and out the door
and that was it. I am not arguing the APS, that is a different league and I would have loved it. Any TT is going to cost you 40 hours for install. The stillen cost me 10 hours at $69 an hour.
#163
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The highest price I was quoted for a TT install was $2500, but I shoped around and found a experienced reputable shop that will do it for $1500. I figure using the prices you gave us, that the APS installed with no extra mods or tuning would run about $1575-$2500 more than the s/c depending on the install cost you get. For people driving $30-$40K cars I don't think this is too hard to come up with...
Last edited by Gman2004; 03-24-2005 at 08:50 AM.
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That extra 2500 is just about the exact amount that my wife will not allow me to spend. She still "doesn't understand why we need to spend 6k on a perfectly good, brand new car." My only explanation is, "I know you don't understand and you probably never will." or "Why do you need Gucci?"
Also, even though I am playing the FI game I am still a little conservative and need that warranty, even if it is just for piece of mind.
Also, even though I am playing the FI game I am still a little conservative and need that warranty, even if it is just for piece of mind.
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lol.....I had the same conversation with my wife....only I won. She is pregnant with our second child and wants to get her **** done after the baby is born. She also wants to get laser hair removal.....all this to the tune of about $6000-$8000. So I said, "ok, but my car gets a tune up too!" Hence I am getting the Greddy TT system. I am dropping the car off tomorrow. BTW, I get to enjoy her tune up as well as the one on my car. I am in a win win situation!
Originally Posted by AdamDC
That extra 2500 is just about the exact amount that my wife will not allow me to spend. She still "doesn't understand why we need to spend 6k on a perfectly good, brand new car." My only explanation is, "I know you don't understand and you probably never will." or "Why do you need Gucci?"
Also, even though I am playing the FI game I am still a little conservative and need that warranty, even if it is just for piece of mind.
Also, even though I am playing the FI game I am still a little conservative and need that warranty, even if it is just for piece of mind.
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Belts is the main thing, you also have to run synthetic motor oil, ALWAYS 91/93 octane, you have to let the car warm up before any stress to the engine, change your tranny fluids more often, change coolant more often, change tires more often, change brakes more often, possible change s/c oil. It's an accumulation of things, you really have to watch every aspect of your drivetrain more closely.
#168
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Originally Posted by Gman2004
EnthuZiast,
Why don't you stop by and see Charles ( Phunk) or Tuan (Zero2prove). You are so close to both of them. I am sure they can give you a ride in one of their TT's. Charles has a greddy and Tuan has the APS. They are excellent tuners. You don't know how lucky you are to have 350z specialists at your finger tips.
Why don't you stop by and see Charles ( Phunk) or Tuan (Zero2prove). You are so close to both of them. I am sure they can give you a ride in one of their TT's. Charles has a greddy and Tuan has the APS. They are excellent tuners. You don't know how lucky you are to have 350z specialists at your finger tips.
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Originally Posted by BrianLG35C
Huh? Doesn't he live in AZ? Charles & Tuan are in Illinois.
Oh, my bad. I was looking at joe joe z. He lives in Chicago.....It can still be done....If you buy the APS from Tuan he can tune it for 91 or 93 octane. Then just find a shop that can install. Tuan does not charge for the stock tune if you buy it from him.
#170
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If you are THAT concerned with reliability and safety, but still want gobs of power, have you considered selling the Z and take the extra cash and go buy a used Z06 or C6 ?
Just a thought
Just a thought
#171
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____________________________________________________________ ______
Why don't you stop by and see Charles ( Phunk) or Tuan (Zero2prove). You are so close to both of them. I am sure they can give you a ride in one of their TT's. Charles has a greddy and Tuan has the APS. They are excellent tuners. You don't know how lucky you are to have 350z specialists at your finger tips.
If you go with a s/c you will probably end up buying all the extra mods to make it faster....and if you go with stillen you have to spend $600 for a hood, not to mention get it painted. Lets add it up.
Stillen Stage 2 $5239
Stillen hood $589
Headers $300-$1200 (depending on which brand you choose)
Plenum $400
Pulley for moore boost $60
Exhuast $700-$1400
Total = $7288
I am going to add up everything using the least expensive exhaust and headers. The total comes out to $7288. That is only $162 less than the APS TT kit. Also don't forget when you add on all these mods to the Stillen or Vortech for that matter, you will have to have it retuned. Tunning cost about $125/hr. Figure 3 hr X $125 = $375 + $7288. Your total for the Stillen tuned with mods will be about $7663 without installation or body shop labor for the hood.
____________________________________________________________ ______
By close by do you mean a state over?
Also there are a lot of reason why I would not go APS Kit.
1. SAFETY. I dont think the VQ should go full blown TT without internals first.
2. COST. Your figures are off. I dont want headers/plenum. I want to keep my warranty. Nissan honors Stillen. Stillen also doe snot take to mods that well.
3. It is my DD and I think i will be very satisfied with the power. In fact I still love my stock power...maybe Im just
I want a safe and easy kit taht will make me 80WHP more. Thats all!
Why don't you stop by and see Charles ( Phunk) or Tuan (Zero2prove). You are so close to both of them. I am sure they can give you a ride in one of their TT's. Charles has a greddy and Tuan has the APS. They are excellent tuners. You don't know how lucky you are to have 350z specialists at your finger tips.
If you go with a s/c you will probably end up buying all the extra mods to make it faster....and if you go with stillen you have to spend $600 for a hood, not to mention get it painted. Lets add it up.
Stillen Stage 2 $5239
Stillen hood $589
Headers $300-$1200 (depending on which brand you choose)
Plenum $400
Pulley for moore boost $60
Exhuast $700-$1400
Total = $7288
I am going to add up everything using the least expensive exhaust and headers. The total comes out to $7288. That is only $162 less than the APS TT kit. Also don't forget when you add on all these mods to the Stillen or Vortech for that matter, you will have to have it retuned. Tunning cost about $125/hr. Figure 3 hr X $125 = $375 + $7288. Your total for the Stillen tuned with mods will be about $7663 without installation or body shop labor for the hood.
____________________________________________________________ ______
By close by do you mean a state over?
Also there are a lot of reason why I would not go APS Kit.
1. SAFETY. I dont think the VQ should go full blown TT without internals first.
2. COST. Your figures are off. I dont want headers/plenum. I want to keep my warranty. Nissan honors Stillen. Stillen also doe snot take to mods that well.
3. It is my DD and I think i will be very satisfied with the power. In fact I still love my stock power...maybe Im just
I want a safe and easy kit taht will make me 80WHP more. Thats all!
#172
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If you are THAT concerned with reliability and safety, but still want gobs of power, have you considered selling the Z and take the extra cash and go buy a used Z06 or C6 ?
Also that is kind of a conclusion. Just because I want my FI to be very safe I should consider another car. The Z and I took that very personal
#175
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A TT will cost much more in the end. Its more like a $10,000 entry fee. Then you will want a bunch of other add on stuff. Then you will want to turn up the power and be safe so forged internals time....yada yada yada. ...whareas a safe SC for $6000 or so is realistic.
I question the logic about the warranty being upheld if you use a Stillen though and the hood thing kills any stealth look. Seriously give the Vortech more consideration.
I question the logic about the warranty being upheld if you use a Stillen though and the hood thing kills any stealth look. Seriously give the Vortech more consideration.
#176
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I had looked at joe joe z's sig and taught you were in Chicago. Anyway take $700 off for the headers and plenum.....you say you don't want mods now...I hope you still feel that way later. As far as warranty have you ever heard of the Magnuson-Moss Warrenty Act of 1975. Read below.
Can an automotive dealership void your warranty?
Understanding the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act of 1975.
Nearly everyone has heard about someone who has taken a vehicle that has been modified with aftermarket parts to a dealer for warranty service, only to have the dealer refuse to cover the defective items. The dealer usually states that because of the aftermarket parts the warranty is void, without even attempting to determine whether the aftermarket part caused the problem.
This is illegal.
Vehicle manufacturers are not allowed to void the vehicle warranty just because aftermarket parts are on the vehicle. To better understand this problem it is best to know the differences between the two types of new car warranties and the two types of emission warranties.
here's the link because I don't want to post the whole article because it will take up the hole page.
As far the VQ35 not holding up to full blown TT with out internal, I am sure that in time this will be proven wrong.
http://www.impalaclub.com/naisso/magmoss.htm
Can an automotive dealership void your warranty?
Understanding the Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act of 1975.
Nearly everyone has heard about someone who has taken a vehicle that has been modified with aftermarket parts to a dealer for warranty service, only to have the dealer refuse to cover the defective items. The dealer usually states that because of the aftermarket parts the warranty is void, without even attempting to determine whether the aftermarket part caused the problem.
This is illegal.
Vehicle manufacturers are not allowed to void the vehicle warranty just because aftermarket parts are on the vehicle. To better understand this problem it is best to know the differences between the two types of new car warranties and the two types of emission warranties.
here's the link because I don't want to post the whole article because it will take up the hole page.
As far the VQ35 not holding up to full blown TT with out internal, I am sure that in time this will be proven wrong.
http://www.impalaclub.com/naisso/magmoss.htm
Originally Posted by EnthuZiast
____________________________________________________________ ______
By close by do you mean a state over?
Also there are a lot of reason why I would not go APS Kit.
1. SAFETY. I dont think the VQ should go full blown TT without internals first.
2. COST. Your figures are off. I dont want headers/plenum. I want to keep my warranty. Nissan honors Stillen. Stillen also doe snot take to mods that well.
3. It is my DD and I think i will be very satisfied with the power. In fact I still love my stock power...maybe Im just :icon14:
I want a [B
____________________________________________________________ ______
By close by do you mean a state over?
Also there are a lot of reason why I would not go APS Kit.
1. SAFETY. I dont think the VQ should go full blown TT without internals first.
2. COST. Your figures are off. I dont want headers/plenum. I want to keep my warranty. Nissan honors Stillen. Stillen also doe snot take to mods that well.
3. It is my DD and I think i will be very satisfied with the power. In fact I still love my stock power...maybe Im just :icon14:
I want a [B
safe[/B] and easy kit taht will make me 80WHP more. Thats all!
Last edited by Gman2004; 03-24-2005 at 12:57 PM.
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Originally Posted by 35ounces
A TT will cost much more in the end. Its more like a $10,000 entry fee. Then you will want a bunch of other add on stuff. Then you will want to turn up the power and be safe so forged internals time....yada yada yada. ...whareas a safe SC for $6000 or so is realistic.
I question the logic about the warranty being upheld if you use a Stillen though and the hood thing kills any stealth look. Seriously give the Vortech more consideration.
I question the logic about the warranty being upheld if you use a Stillen though and the hood thing kills any stealth look. Seriously give the Vortech more consideration.
#178
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Originally Posted by gspot35
BTW, you can't put a plenum on the Stillen s/c's, it's like putting headers on a turbo car.
#179
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Originally Posted by Gman2004
Ok, so if you will want more power with the TT why would this be different with a s/c?? Your logic make no sense. At least with a TT, you have the ability to get more power, if you desire it later down the road. This is coming from someone you went the s/c route and is now switching to TT.
The APS kit itself is more than the Vortech SC + add-ons + installation and tuning. On top of that, the APS shops around here charge at least $2500 to install and tune (usually more by the time you are done). Add on some extras and it could easily hit twice the cost of the SC solution.
The bottomline here is that we believe that the SC route may provide us with enough power to make us happy, is generally safer, and is within our budgets. Going TT is going to cost much more. If the TT is right for you then all the power to you. I do not think I am ready to go that route right now. When I do, I will build the motor first.
#180
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Here's my Vortech with add ons, install and tune bill
Vortech $4310
AEM wideband $425
Steel lines $135
TS headers $300
Boost guage $94
Oil pan spacer $90
1 step colder Plugs $114
guage pod $100
Greddy emanage $387
Injectors $612
RPM signal adap $25
Install and tune $1430
Exhaust $950
Test pipes $200
--------------------------------
Total $9,202
I dyno'ed at 380rwhp.....
APS TT kit tune $7450
Install $2500
total $9950
will dyno between 380-410rwhp.
My point is if you just go with the basic APS TT and do not add anything else you will end spending about the same amount of money as a modded s/c and be around the same rwhp. As far as safety how is 380rwhp on a s/c car any safer than 380rhwp on a TT car?
Vortech $4310
AEM wideband $425
Steel lines $135
TS headers $300
Boost guage $94
Oil pan spacer $90
1 step colder Plugs $114
guage pod $100
Greddy emanage $387
Injectors $612
RPM signal adap $25
Install and tune $1430
Exhaust $950
Test pipes $200
--------------------------------
Total $9,202
I dyno'ed at 380rwhp.....
APS TT kit tune $7450
Install $2500
total $9950
will dyno between 380-410rwhp.
My point is if you just go with the basic APS TT and do not add anything else you will end spending about the same amount of money as a modded s/c and be around the same rwhp. As far as safety how is 380rwhp on a s/c car any safer than 380rhwp on a TT car?
Last edited by Gman2004; 03-24-2005 at 01:53 PM.