To blow up my engine?
I know Stillen has an great record but what about after that.

1.
2.
3.
4.

Thanks in advance!

Tom

 

I would think any combo with low boost, a pig rich computer for added buffer, and absolutely no KR.

 

I think HKS is pretty safe and vortech also.


Tasso-

 

Stillen is the safest by far, other than that you are definitely putting your motor's longevity at risk.

 

http://www.procharger.com/350z_profiles.shtml the procharger won the shootout... check it out.

 

Stillen on low boost is the safest of all.

After that, they are all equally as likely ... it just comes down to the tuning and add-ons you put there for safety.

Both the HKS and Vortech come with almost all safety tools necessary to run safely ... all I would add would be some gauges for info readout and peace of mind.

ATI needs timing control added on (either at TS reflash or J&S) ... but then it is the same as the others safety wise ... just louder.

Good luck choosing
jim

 

Maybe I missed it, but it did not say what the other cars had.

 

With all that money you are going to make this year, why not go TT and build the motor?

 

twin turbo...aps or greddy w/ all the goodies

 

Haha. 6 figures or not that is ALOT of coin.

What the hell makes Stillen SO much safer. Is it the only "Eaton/Roots" type charger? I was leaning towards Vortec but now I am kind of iffy/scared. My friend said he drove a G35 AUTO with an ATI yesterday and said I HAVE to get a supercharger. I must admit I have been so envious of the FI Zs you guys have on these boards. I mean some of your cars are just

By the way NISSAN is buying it not my work money. I just settled outside of court cough*$6000.00*cough and my car will not be receiving a lemon title.
I just feel bad for the dealer who takes my trade in

 

Stillen is that much safer at LOW boost ... simply bc it is at a lower boost setting.

Go with Vortech!! I would have kept it if I didn't have bigger hopes and dreams for this car.

 

Eaton causes the most heat under your engine and parasitic loss.

 

Jim-

What boost do you feel Vortec is safest at? What all do I need to buy with it??
THANKS IN ADVANCE

Tom

P.S. how is the projector? Still making your own speakers

 

I am running a 9lb pulley and hit up to 10lbs. Lots of guys are running the 10lb pulley and making up to 11.5lbs.

Here are the additional parts I would recommend.

Plenum
headers
exhaust
wideband
boost gauge
oil pan spacer kit or baffled oil pan for safety.

I am deeply considering going APS TT. A TT kit is only a couple of grand more than a s/c with all the extras. I love my vortech, but you will want more. I thought I would be happy, but I feel like a drug addict that wants another fix

I recommend that you ask members on this board for a ride in a s/c and TT car and then make up your mind. If not you might find yourself in the same situation as me.

 

I would go with the Stillen or HKS. Probably lean toward the Stillen due to the low end torque. You will feel this in everyday driving, not only when you get on it a bit. Wonderful sound too . I have had a roots blower before and some of the issues mentioned before will still be a concern. Belt wear and probably rich for safety, also there is some more heat. Still, you will find this type of blower in more OEM apps than centrificals for a reason, OEMs strive for reliability. Even TRD uses Eatons, they are good!!! I have not tried a (HKS)rotrex, but have used HKS items in the past, they are OEM like and are a quality company. If this is a stock motor your better off on the safe side and these two are probably safer than the others. No mods, just the way it is, love it or leave it. Probably the only safe way to do FI on this car stock. If you want more power with a supercharger, I would go vortec, but I believe that you will be pushing the stock build. Tuning is key as others have stated. I personally would not touch the ATI , due to the blown engines/lack of timing. Sure you can have the ECU modded or put on a added control unit, but what a kludge and you had better have a top notch tuner to try and make it work. If you want the real power, you need to rebuild. The compression and stock components just don't lend themselves to anything aggressive. Listen to these other guys and go for the rebuild and the APS .

 

Invest $3-$4 grand on top of nissan's money and you can get a APS TT. Just stick with the stock map and be at 400rwhp with a pretty reliable car. I really believe that in time we will see that our motor is not as weak as people think it is.

 

It's too hard to say. it all depends on your setup and the way you drive and what you use the car for. Stillen and HKS are the safer ones out there out of the box. THe vortech is good too as long as you upgrade the piggyback software and belts etc...

often times the kits are ok for the motors, but the kits themselves have technical issues, like the vortech and it's belt etc...

 

All you have to do is ugrade to the gates belt and it's all good.

 

the majority of people i have interacted with end up changing the software to the newer software version that is avilable for the vortechs, and they don't like the out of the box drivability of the kit without that.

It's all up to the person and the tuning though....