ATS Clutch install instructions
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From: Man in the Sun
ATS Clutch install instructions
Hey guys,
Got my ATS 1100kg twin today.
Opened her up to take a look and noticed the install instructions are not useful for English speaking folks. Anybody seen some English instructions for this baby?? I have done clutch installs before but never a twin disc....want to make sure it is done correctly. Thanks!!
Got my ATS 1100kg twin today.
Opened her up to take a look and noticed the install instructions are not useful for English speaking folks. Anybody seen some English instructions for this baby?? I have done clutch installs before but never a twin disc....want to make sure it is done correctly. Thanks!!
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From: Melbourne Australia
You will receive english instructions in the post in a few days from ATS USA all orders placed in the US get this service. Plus don't be alarmed during the breakin period and up to 2000 miles to see fine particles of carbon all over your car, this normal as the first 0.2mm on the carbon discs is soft to help in the bedding in process I though something was wrong with my install, all is good now after 2500 miles.
Cheers
Cheers
Last edited by ZZZ-35; Mar 20, 2005 at 02:48 AM.
There is really nothing special about the installation process. Just make sure when you disassemble the clutch, that you put everything back in the proper order, and with the correct surfaces facing the proper direction. It was a really fast install. 
You will need to order an OEM clutch alignment tool as well. Dont attempt the install without it.
And make sure torque everything down to spec.
Break the clutch in for a few hundred miles...DO NOT slip the clutch aggressively during this time.
Lastly, you might want to consider having the clutch assembly dynamically balanced at an engine building machine shop. Most flywheels are not perfectly balanced out of the box.....the OEM flywheel is also balanced from the factory...you can see the weights welded onto the flywheel. For about $75, the machine shop will balance the flywheel, pressure plate, and cover. They did this with mine, and had to remove a little bit of material from both the flywheel and the cover. I am pretty **** about this stuff...95% of the people will just install it and go. But since the tranny is out, might as well have it balanced. It will increase the longevity or your crank bearings, and hopefully make the engine run a bit smoother.
You will need to order an OEM clutch alignment tool as well. Dont attempt the install without it.
And make sure torque everything down to spec.Break the clutch in for a few hundred miles...DO NOT slip the clutch aggressively during this time.
Lastly, you might want to consider having the clutch assembly dynamically balanced at an engine building machine shop. Most flywheels are not perfectly balanced out of the box.....the OEM flywheel is also balanced from the factory...you can see the weights welded onto the flywheel. For about $75, the machine shop will balance the flywheel, pressure plate, and cover. They did this with mine, and had to remove a little bit of material from both the flywheel and the cover. I am pretty **** about this stuff...95% of the people will just install it and go. But since the tranny is out, might as well have it balanced. It will increase the longevity or your crank bearings, and hopefully make the engine run a bit smoother.
Last edited by Sharif@Forged; Mar 20, 2005 at 07:15 PM.
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From: Man in the Sun
Originally Posted by gq_626
There is really nothing special about the installation process. Just make sure when you disassemble the clutch, that you put everything back in the proper order, and with the correct surfaces facing the proper direction. It was a really fast install.
You will need to order an OEM clutch alignment tool as well. Dont attempt the install without it. And make sure torque everything down to spec.
Break the clutch in for a few hundred miles...DO NOT slip the clutch aggressively during this time.
Lastly, you might want to consider having the clutch assembly dynamically balanced at an engine building machine shop. Most flywheels are not perfectly balanced out of the box.....the OEM flywheel is also balanced from the factory...you can see the weights welded onto the flywheel. For about $75, the machine shop will balance the flywheel, pressure plate, and cover. They did this with mine, and had to remove a little bit of material from both the flywheel and the cover. I am pretty **** about this stuff...95% of the people will just install it and go. But since the tranny is out, might as well have it balanced. It will increase the longevity or your crank bearings, and hopefully make the engine run a bit smoother.
You will need to order an OEM clutch alignment tool as well. Dont attempt the install without it.
And make sure torque everything down to spec.Break the clutch in for a few hundred miles...DO NOT slip the clutch aggressively during this time.
Lastly, you might want to consider having the clutch assembly dynamically balanced at an engine building machine shop. Most flywheels are not perfectly balanced out of the box.....the OEM flywheel is also balanced from the factory...you can see the weights welded onto the flywheel. For about $75, the machine shop will balance the flywheel, pressure plate, and cover. They did this with mine, and had to remove a little bit of material from both the flywheel and the cover. I am pretty **** about this stuff...95% of the people will just install it and go. But since the tranny is out, might as well have it balanced. It will increase the longevity or your crank bearings, and hopefully make the engine run a bit smoother.
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From: Charlotte, NC
Originally Posted by gq_626
There is really nothing special about the installation process. Just make sure when you disassemble the clutch, that you put everything back in the proper order, and with the correct surfaces facing the proper direction. It was a really fast install.
You will need to order an OEM clutch alignment tool as well. Dont attempt the install without it. And make sure torque everything down to spec.
Break the clutch in for a few hundred miles...DO NOT slip the clutch aggressively during this time.
Lastly, you might want to consider having the clutch assembly dynamically balanced at an engine building machine shop. Most flywheels are not perfectly balanced out of the box.....the OEM flywheel is also balanced from the factory...you can see the weights welded onto the flywheel. For about $75, the machine shop will balance the flywheel, pressure plate, and cover. They did this with mine, and had to remove a little bit of material from both the flywheel and the cover. I am pretty **** about this stuff...95% of the people will just install it and go. But since the tranny is out, might as well have it balanced. It will increase the longevity or your crank bearings, and hopefully make the engine run a bit smoother.
You will need to order an OEM clutch alignment tool as well. Dont attempt the install without it.
And make sure torque everything down to spec.Break the clutch in for a few hundred miles...DO NOT slip the clutch aggressively during this time.
Lastly, you might want to consider having the clutch assembly dynamically balanced at an engine building machine shop. Most flywheels are not perfectly balanced out of the box.....the OEM flywheel is also balanced from the factory...you can see the weights welded onto the flywheel. For about $75, the machine shop will balance the flywheel, pressure plate, and cover. They did this with mine, and had to remove a little bit of material from both the flywheel and the cover. I am pretty **** about this stuff...95% of the people will just install it and go. But since the tranny is out, might as well have it balanced. It will increase the longevity or your crank bearings, and hopefully make the engine run a bit smoother.
Originally Posted by Enron Exec
Same goes for the crank pulley if you have it handy.
But the UR pulley was PERFECT....nothing had to be removed or added to it.
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I spoke too soon. After bolting up the tranny, and checking out the clutch. It looks like the rod that touches the clutch fork (on the ourside of the bell housing) is too short. Did anyone have to modify their slave cylinder or clutch fork to make this work correctly?
It mentioned nothing about this in the english instructions.
After bolting up the tranny, and checking out the clutch. It looks like the rod that touches the clutch fork (on the ourside of the bell housing) is too short. Did anyone have to modify their slave cylinder or clutch fork to make this work correctly?It mentioned nothing about this in the english instructions.
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From: Man in the Sun
Originally Posted by gq_626
I spoke too soon. After bolting up the tranny, and checking out the clutch. It looks like the rod that touches the clutch fork (on the ourside of the bell housing) is too short. Did anyone have to modify their slave cylinder or clutch fork to make this work correctly?
It mentioned nothing about this in the english instructions.
After bolting up the tranny, and checking out the clutch. It looks like the rod that touches the clutch fork (on the ourside of the bell housing) is too short. Did anyone have to modify their slave cylinder or clutch fork to make this work correctly?It mentioned nothing about this in the english instructions.
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