I was driving my Z with the procharger and their fuel management system and everything was running good. I added the J and S and the car sounds awful. It is real groggy and seems to be running rich. Does this sound right? How would the J and S control the air fuel at idle. This is under no boost as well as when I hit the gas.

 

What features are you using on your J&S? Only knock retard or knock retard plus timing pull based on MAP?
--
Jeff

 

Did you adjust the sensitivity on the unit?

what settings are you using?

Do you have the unit with rpm and boost settings

Did you pay close attention to the wires and connect the correct cylinders?the picture in the intructions is a little confusing.

 

I put the sensitivity on min (all the way CCW)...I raised this to max and nothing changed

Start time (set to 0)
Boost rate (set to 1 degreee)
s1-s5 all up

 

I guess s3 and s4 control rpm retard. What would you reccomend I use as a base setting. Running 9psi max on a procharger. Heres the directions

http://jandssafeguard.com/6cylNissan/350z.html

 

Mine is not handy to look at but from memory that sounds about right.

What about the wires, like I said the picture can get confusing the cylinders do not get attached in the same number order as it is on the box.

 

You sure you have it hooked up right?

 

OK I just checked and not sure what they mean as it has been a while but mine has 1 and 2 up and 3-5 down and I have it set at 1/2 degree per pound

 

Ive double ckecked it and Im pretty sure its right. The only problem I had was that there were more than one of the same color wires. To solve this I took the process of elimination approach. Measured voltage going from where the wire went into the coil, then cut the wire. This is a primitive but accurate approach. When the voltage read 0 after a cut then I knew that was the right wire.

The only other thing that I did was add the diodes to the unit like I was told directly from J and S. I need to check my coils. Maybe the coil packs are fried.

 

Looking at the instructions with 3 and 4 up you are pulling the max retard of 8 degrees.

 

From the directions it appears that the RPM retard does not start until 5250 RPM and my car is at idle with these problems.

 

I don't have the diodes but when I installed them I think they have to be in the right direction, mine didn't want to work too well with the diodes so we took them off.

Also if you still have the 1 and 2 up you will retard timing by 20 is there is any knock at all, mine is not working as I think my knock sensor is bad there is a stored code of excessively high voltage from the sensor.

 

OK with the diodes-- I put them the wrong direction first and my car would crank but not start. Then I switched the diodes and the car started.

 

Well mine are off all together.

I would try putting 1 and 2 down and see if that helps.

 

OK cool. I was told if the unit was before a certain date (which it is) that diodes had to be installed to prevent burning my coils. I could try without the diodes but then if my coils burn out its more cash. Ill try messing with the swicthes a little.

 

I agree try the cheapest first, mine is from September of last year if that helps.

 

I know nothing about the J&S...but could you possibly be in a limp mode ?

 

Good point, you might want to check the ECU for codes, not all codes will trip the CEL.

 

Refer to new diagram:

http://www.jandssafeguard.com/6cylNissan/350z.html

Bypass the adapter module, make sure the engine runs normally. To bypass, connect the cut ends of the coil wires to each other. You can use the input terminal block as a junction:

Put both coil 1 wires into pin 1 of the input terminal block.
Put both coil 4 wires into pin 2 of the input terminal block.
Put both coil 2 wires into pin 3 of the input terminal block.
Put both coil 5 wires into pin 4 of the input terminal block.
Put both coil 3 wires into pin 5 of the input terminal block.
Put both coil 6 wires into pin 6 of the input terminal block.

If the engine runs normally, move the coil ends of the cut wires to the output terminal block of the adapter module as shown, but leave the blue box out of the circuit. For the engine to run, you will also need to connect the three pin terminal blocks to each other:

Pin 1 to pin 1, pin 2 to pin 2, and pin 3 to pin 3.

If the engine does not run normally, you have the coils wired incorrectly.

If the engine runs normally, remove the jumpers from the 3 pin terminal blocks.

Connect the three pin terminal blocks to the blue box, as shown in the diagram.

 

! thru 6 on the adapter module DO NOT go to coils 1 through six in order. Pay careful attention to the wiring diagram.

I can't stress enough about reading the directions on what the settings are, what they do and how to set them...

The coil wire you want is the middle one on the plug at the coil, compare colors there to the wire you are using at the ECU to double check. Then after cutting the wire check continuity(ohm it out) to double check again.

Are you sure your hot is hot while cranking? This is critical!!

Use your staus LED to fine tune the retard, AFTER you,ve set the sensitivity.
Do not mess with your A/F if it was ok before.

Her are my settings that have worked for over a year...20k miles on it since install and the car runs mid 12's.
Start **** about 3psi---scale is 0 to 10 psi
Rate **** about 3/4psi--- scale is 0 to 2 degrees
Sensitivity set EXACTLY THE WAY THE MANUAL SAYS TO DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!
RPM retard set for 2 degrees
Knock retard set to individual cylinder
Knock retard set to 10 degrees

Also read this that I posted elsewhere on the forum...



I installed one on an 04 Auto Z that runs the ATI and every possible bolt on. The Ultra safeguard is the only thing we are using to control timing and as far as I'm concerned it works great. This car is a 90 mile a day daily driver and has probably 50 passes down the strip, not to mention a fair amount of street racing. It has over 20k miles since all this was installed and has had no issues with detonation and is not a built motor.
Heres the key for setup for the J&S
READ THE DIRECTIONS!
Pay attention to the wiring diagram!
Set the knock sensitivity EXACTLY like it says-don't second guess the unit.
I assume your F/I-if you don't have a ULTRA safeguard don't use it. The standard safeguard is not for F/I
The ULTRA safegaurd has BOOST based and RPM based retard
Set the rpm retard to 2 degrees
Set the start **** to no higher than 3 PSI
Set the rate **** to around 1 psi per pound of boost to begin with, this is very conservative.
Properly calibrated the knock function should never be active, you can back off the rate a little at a time until you see knock and then go the other direction.
I would HIGHLY recommend cutting the "knock" LED loose from the unit and wiring it out to into the drivers vision so you can use it to tune the unit and know if a problem is developing.
Wiring. All the wires you need are accessible at the ECU which is close to where most people mount them anyway. You need to get a wiring diagram from the service manual that shows the pin #s and wire colors and cross check that against the J&S diagram. I found a wire color discrepency due to ?model year change?.
Double check your coil color wires at the ecu by comparing them to the signal wire at the coil plug on the engine. It's the middle of the three wires. Unplug it at the coil and ohm it out with a meter to double check if your not sure.
Make very sure the powered hot to the unit is "hot while cranking" by actually checking it with a meter while cranking the motor. Most of the hots you find turn themselves off while the engine is cranking.
I powered mine from the battery and used a relay driven by my hot while cranking source in order not to have the J&S on an unknown source.
Pay attention to the wiring diagram..some of the lines cross; sorry if that sounds stupid but it does happen....
Good luck
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