Average price for build up?
#1
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Hey guys just wanted to do a rough estimate on my forged internals mission. To those that rebuilt their engine, how much did you pay for everything? Need your guy's help on what parts I need to buy. Here is the list of parts I will be buying:
Arias Pistons (8.6:1 or 9:1 compression?)
Pauter Rods
AAM fuel system
Walbro pump
Tomei or JWT cams?
ARP main and head studs
Port and Polish
Clutch (now or later, on a budget!?)
Labor charge
_________________
Is there something else I need? If so, please help me list them.
Arias Pistons (8.6:1 or 9:1 compression?)
Pauter Rods
AAM fuel system
Walbro pump
Tomei or JWT cams?
ARP main and head studs
Port and Polish
Clutch (now or later, on a budget!?)
Labor charge
_________________
Is there something else I need? If so, please help me list them.
#2
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8.6:1 or 9.0:1 will not have much a difference between the 2, not enough that you would ever notice. I would just do 9.0:1. Just make sure you get a .020 over.
JWT cams are a good decent profile... given we have no control over the cam TIMING which is pretty important for making power when boosting an NA engine with cams... but hey not much you can do about it, maybe TS can help.
Clutch? Now, for sure. If your on a budget, skip the port and polish you dont need it unless your going for huge HP, like over 650hp.
labor will depend on the shop and how they organize their pricing between actual build labor and machine shop charges and gaskets and bearings. 5 grand to 8 grand or more. pay what it costs to have a good shop that is as close as possible to you to do it. Cost should not be an option as long as your not getting ripped off. Some shops are 70/hour, some are 100/hour... that alone will make a huge difference in price. Some shops will bill for every hour spent building the car, some will only bill for book time, and some will discount it heavily just to get the job. Either way, be prepared for this to be the most expensive part of the build... its still less expensive then having to do it again so dont be cheap!
JWT cams are a good decent profile... given we have no control over the cam TIMING which is pretty important for making power when boosting an NA engine with cams... but hey not much you can do about it, maybe TS can help.
Clutch? Now, for sure. If your on a budget, skip the port and polish you dont need it unless your going for huge HP, like over 650hp.
labor will depend on the shop and how they organize their pricing between actual build labor and machine shop charges and gaskets and bearings. 5 grand to 8 grand or more. pay what it costs to have a good shop that is as close as possible to you to do it. Cost should not be an option as long as your not getting ripped off. Some shops are 70/hour, some are 100/hour... that alone will make a huge difference in price. Some shops will bill for every hour spent building the car, some will only bill for book time, and some will discount it heavily just to get the job. Either way, be prepared for this to be the most expensive part of the build... its still less expensive then having to do it again so dont be cheap!
Last edited by phunk; 04-04-2005 at 03:13 AM.
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Man, not really looking forward to that labor cost, but you gotta pay what it takes to get it done professionally. Wish I had all the necessary machines to bore out my engine and what-not so I could do the whole build myself
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Originally Posted by phunk
8.6:1 or 9.0:1 will not have much a difference between the 2, not enough that you would ever notice. I would just do 9.0:1. Just make sure you get a .020 over.
JWT cams are a good decent profile... given we have no control over the cam TIMING which is pretty important for making power when boosting an NA engine with cams... but hey not much you can do about it, maybe TS can help.
Clutch? Now, for sure. If your on a budget, skip the port and polish you dont need it unless your going for huge HP, like over 650hp.
labor will depend on the shop and how they organize their pricing between actual build labor and machine shop charges and gaskets and bearings. 5 grand to 8 grand or more. pay what it costs to have a good shop that is as close as possible to you to do it. Cost should not be an option as long as your not getting ripped off. Some shops are 70/hour, some are 100/hour... that alone will make a huge difference in price. Some shops will bill for every hour spent building the car, some will only bill for book time, and some will discount it heavily just to get the job. Either way, be prepared for this to be the most expensive part of the build... its still less expensive then having to do it again so dont be cheap!
JWT cams are a good decent profile... given we have no control over the cam TIMING which is pretty important for making power when boosting an NA engine with cams... but hey not much you can do about it, maybe TS can help.
Clutch? Now, for sure. If your on a budget, skip the port and polish you dont need it unless your going for huge HP, like over 650hp.
labor will depend on the shop and how they organize their pricing between actual build labor and machine shop charges and gaskets and bearings. 5 grand to 8 grand or more. pay what it costs to have a good shop that is as close as possible to you to do it. Cost should not be an option as long as your not getting ripped off. Some shops are 70/hour, some are 100/hour... that alone will make a huge difference in price. Some shops will bill for every hour spent building the car, some will only bill for book time, and some will discount it heavily just to get the job. Either way, be prepared for this to be the most expensive part of the build... its still less expensive then having to do it again so dont be cheap!
#5
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Originally Posted by cquence 350 [Z]
So I can skip port and polish? I just want 500-550rwhp car. And by getting the clutch now, what is a decent clutch to get? I want the total of the build-up not exceeding $8K.
Me, Going Deep,350ZDkalb, and Enron, went with the twin disc carbon ATS.
Click on this link for more detail:
http://www.forgedinternals.com/store/home.php?cat=261
In terms of pistons CR...like Phunk mentioned...i doubt you will notice a difference between 8.6 and 9.0, so if you are on a budget, just get 8.6:1 becuase you wont have to pay the $110 custom CR charge.
#6
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Originally Posted by gq_626
With plans for that much power, I would be looking at a multi disc carbon clutch, like the ATS twin and triple discs that many of us are using. The feel and engagment is like stock, and only a small increase in noise with the clutch pedal depressed. With the clutch pedal released, it sounds like stock. These clutches last a very long time...and carbon grabs better as more heat is introduced. They are good for 700-1400whp depending on the configuaration you choice.
Me, Going Deep,350ZDkalb, and Enron, went with the twin disc carbon ATS.
Click on this link for more detail:
http://www.forgedinternals.com/store/home.php?cat=261
In terms of pistons CR...like Phunk mentioned...i doubt you will notice a difference between 8.6 and 9.0, so if you are on a budget, just get 8.6:1 becuase you wont have to pay the $110 custom CR charge.
Me, Going Deep,350ZDkalb, and Enron, went with the twin disc carbon ATS.
Click on this link for more detail:
http://www.forgedinternals.com/store/home.php?cat=261
In terms of pistons CR...like Phunk mentioned...i doubt you will notice a difference between 8.6 and 9.0, so if you are on a budget, just get 8.6:1 becuase you wont have to pay the $110 custom CR charge.
#7
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I guess it obvious to go for quality over price but I would do the following:
1. Research the shops, what work have they done, recommendations
2. Does the shop stand behind their product in case there is a problem with the engine or just walk away
3. Get pricing in wiriting and try to go for fixed pricing not hourly rates, it doesn't help to go for 70 per hour if they take teice a long or charge twice as many hours as the 100 per hour shop.
Basically a lot of money to spend and definelty do not want to do over.
1. Research the shops, what work have they done, recommendations
2. Does the shop stand behind their product in case there is a problem with the engine or just walk away
3. Get pricing in wiriting and try to go for fixed pricing not hourly rates, it doesn't help to go for 70 per hour if they take teice a long or charge twice as many hours as the 100 per hour shop.
Basically a lot of money to spend and definelty do not want to do over.
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Without the pistons, rods, fuel system, injectors, cams, etc., what is the average labor costs to pull and build the engine and install using new gasgets and all the little things that are needed needed? Also, do shops generally charge less to install a new clutch when all of this is getting done? Also, it seems that the average build time is somewhere around 6 weeks? Is this correct?
#9
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Originally Posted by Yancy
Without the pistons, rods, fuel system, injectors, cams, etc., what is the average labor costs to pull and build the engine and install using new gasgets and all the little things that are needed needed? Also, do shops generally charge less to install a new clutch when all of this is getting done? Also, it seems that the average build time is somewhere around 6 weeks? Is this correct?
If I was to ballpark it...I am guessing about $3500 for what you mentioned above.
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Originally Posted by fernandito7
So cquenze, what ended up happening with ur car? Did u get a compression test done?
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Yea u should definately go with z car garage for this buildup. They will do an excellent job. Trust me they will. Why dont u give them a call and tell them about ur plans. i would llike to know how much the build up would cost by going with them.
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Originally Posted by phunk
yes if they are near you I would recommend Z Car Garage as well. Tell Rob I said hi!
#16
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not only so you can stop by and see it being done, but more importantly so the people that built it can be the ones to maintain it. Unfortunatly a built engine with twin turbos is not going to be OEM reliable... there is lots of room for little small stuff to require attention, and there is no tellin what it will be from car to car.
having them close means they can keep on eye on the car and do frequent check ups to spot any problems before they happen, or fix them, god forbid, they do happen.
having them close means they can keep on eye on the car and do frequent check ups to spot any problems before they happen, or fix them, god forbid, they do happen.
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