Vortech - Gates belt walking off idler pulley
#1
Vortech - Gates belt walking off idler pulley
Since I am new to the whole FI game, I decided to take some advice of other memebers and replace the Gatorback belt that comes with the Vortech and replace with a Gates equivalent. The gatorback that comes with the kit apparently is slipping and not allowing the blower to produce full boost. Only making 6.6 max on average.
Got the new belt on, started it up and discovered the belt walked off the first rib of the idler pulley. So with that said, I have a couple questions:
Is the belt too tight causing it to walk off the rib?
Is there an alignment problem that would cause this? (possible suspect)
Interesting enough the stock gatorback belt does not walk over the rib. But considering the gatorback is slightly thinner belt, it may be more forgiving.
Got the new belt on, started it up and discovered the belt walked off the first rib of the idler pulley. So with that said, I have a couple questions:
Is the belt too tight causing it to walk off the rib?
Is there an alignment problem that would cause this? (possible suspect)
Interesting enough the stock gatorback belt does not walk over the rib. But considering the gatorback is slightly thinner belt, it may be more forgiving.
#6
Originally Posted by kopo
Mysunset, Who did your vortech install in chicago?
#7
When you tighten your belt, if too loose you'll see it flapping at idle. If too tight you will be able to look down your mounting plate and actually see it warped/bent. With an 8lb pulley you should not have to warp your plate to get a quite belt. Also make sure of your tension on your cog pulley, you need to be able to spin the cog idler. Too tight and it will affect your serp belt and be loud! Neither brand belt should walk off!
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#9
cog idler
Originally Posted by gspot35
When you tighten your belt, if too loose you'll see it flapping at idle. If too tight you will be able to look down your mounting plate and actually see it warped/bent. With an 8lb pulley you should not have to warp your plate to get a quite belt. Also make sure of your tension on your cog pulley, you need to be able to spin the cog idler. Too tight and it will affect your serp belt and be loud! Neither brand belt should walk off!
#11
Originally Posted by kopo
Did you get the 93 or 93.5 in belt?
#12
Originally Posted by gspot35
When you tighten your belt, if too loose you'll see it flapping at idle. If too tight you will be able to look down your mounting plate and actually see it warped/bent. With an 8lb pulley you should not have to warp your plate to get a quite belt. Also make sure of your tension on your cog pulley, you need to be able to spin the cog idler. Too tight and it will affect your serp belt and be loud! Neither brand belt should walk off!
as for the serp, I do not see that it may be warped when I look down the belt at idle. looks square to the mounting plate.
Just a thought, while installing my mounting plate, I read that it would help align the pulleys better if you place the washers on the inside of the mounting plate towards the engine. Do you think, the additonal space of the washer would cause the belt to be slightly off and make it walk off?
#13
Originally Posted by mysunset
I bought the 060930 belt initially and was not able to get in on. too tight with the stock pulley. I purchased the 060935 = 94" belt and am using that.
#16
Originally Posted by gspot35
I second the 93.5" belt. Also remember to trq your serp. idler pulley to 23ft.lbs of torque.
#17
At first, I kept playing with belt tensions to get squealing to stop. At one point I just followed the belt tightening instructions to a tee. I noticed a torque spec on the idler, and simply torqued it. Squealing stopped. I guess the tighter the idler is, the more tension?
Nothing to do with the belt walking I can think of!
Nothing to do with the belt walking I can think of!
#18
So let me ask this... what would prohibit making full boost? In a previous post of mine, someone mentioned that the belt needs to be tight. So i tightened it down.
When the belt is first tightened down, go out and drive the car and make 8lbs. Then after about 20 minutes of driving around, I am only making roughly 6.5lbs of boost. I would attribute this to the belt slipping or stretched, but trying to identify an area that may be creating additonal friction/tension not allowing full boost is driving me nuts.
Also, in the previous post I mentioned that the gatorback belt appears to be wearing odd. I have fine rubber throughout the engine compartment, especially around the idler pulley. So I should maybe focus my attention to that area? maybe realign the mounting plate, less the washers on the inside of the plate that mounts to the timing cover?
When the belt is first tightened down, go out and drive the car and make 8lbs. Then after about 20 minutes of driving around, I am only making roughly 6.5lbs of boost. I would attribute this to the belt slipping or stretched, but trying to identify an area that may be creating additonal friction/tension not allowing full boost is driving me nuts.
Also, in the previous post I mentioned that the gatorback belt appears to be wearing odd. I have fine rubber throughout the engine compartment, especially around the idler pulley. So I should maybe focus my attention to that area? maybe realign the mounting plate, less the washers on the inside of the plate that mounts to the timing cover?
#19
Originally Posted by mysunset
So let me ask this... what would prohibit making full boost? In a previous post of mine, someone mentioned that the belt needs to be tight. So i tightened it down.
When the belt is first tightened down, go out and drive the car and make 8lbs. Then after about 20 minutes of driving around, I am only making roughly 6.5lbs of boost. I would attribute this to the belt slipping or stretched, but trying to identify an area that may be creating additonal friction/tension not allowing full boost is driving me nuts.
Also, in the previous post I mentioned that the gatorback belt appears to be wearing odd. I have fine rubber throughout the engine compartment, especially around the idler pulley. So I should maybe focus my attention to that area? maybe realign the mounting plate, less the washers on the inside of the plate that mounts to the timing cover?
When the belt is first tightened down, go out and drive the car and make 8lbs. Then after about 20 minutes of driving around, I am only making roughly 6.5lbs of boost. I would attribute this to the belt slipping or stretched, but trying to identify an area that may be creating additonal friction/tension not allowing full boost is driving me nuts.
Also, in the previous post I mentioned that the gatorback belt appears to be wearing odd. I have fine rubber throughout the engine compartment, especially around the idler pulley. So I should maybe focus my attention to that area? maybe realign the mounting plate, less the washers on the inside of the plate that mounts to the timing cover?
#20
Originally Posted by jpc350z
I have found that for my car to reach 8psi I have to keep it floored till it reaches about 80mph. Don't know at what speed others reach to get 8psi.. An intereseting experiment..As far as belt dust, might as well get used to it.. Mine makes some with the Gates but think by your description that you may be making more..
Sunset- are you sure you have no vacuum leaks? Is your idle stable for 2-3 minutes straight? You could have your cog belt idler too tight creating too much resistance. If you have belt dust, it's caused by friction. Either by mis-aligned belts or loose belts. Remember the load increases on the s/c as boost builds, so slippage will occur at high rpm where it's hard to see. Good luck in your hunt.