Kinetix SSV IM "Dyno Numbers"
05-24-2005, 10:33 AM
#61
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Zach,
If your car was making around 240whp before the Vortech intall and 343 after at 6.1 psi, that is approximately 17 whp per PSI so it might be asking a bit much to get an additional 57whp from an additional 1.9 psi. I personally have not seen more than 390 from 8 psi on the Vortech.
Have the installer adjust the lock nut on the BOV to make sure it is not venting too early. Good luck!
If your car was making around 240whp before the Vortech intall and 343 after at 6.1 psi, that is approximately 17 whp per PSI so it might be asking a bit much to get an additional 57whp from an additional 1.9 psi. I personally have not seen more than 390 from 8 psi on the Vortech.
Have the installer adjust the lock nut on the BOV to make sure it is not venting too early. Good luck!
05-24-2005, 01:56 PM
#63
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Check the BOV. I did not install my vacuum line to the BOV and was getting the same boost as you. Try checking the vacuum line to the plenum.
Have you adjusted the BOV at all? I had mine adjusted to 6 visible threads. Vortech says leave the BOV stock out of the box however other people told me to change it.
Jeremy
Have you adjusted the BOV at all? I had mine adjusted to 6 visible threads. Vortech says leave the BOV stock out of the box however other people told me to change it.
Jeremy
05-24-2005, 03:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Gman2004
I had the same question. I think he was running the vortech with the out of the box tune when he installed the IM. Seeing how the vortech runs really rich out of the box maybe the IM leaned it up so much that he got a better tune without tuning. I would have liked to see the difference between his vortech tuned with the V4 and then retuned for the IM. That would be a better comparison.
The numbers you see at the top of this thread are all with Vortech SC. I posted the V4, prototype and SSV on one chart. Based on earlier comments on V4 and prototype tuning, we re-tuned before we dynoed with SSV.
Without looking at previous thread/posts the V4 was in the mid 330's, prototype in the upper 380's and SSV 416 rwhp. I did go to PE 380 injectors with the SSV. I had the TS "limited flash" on all pulls.
05-24-2005, 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by cjb80
When is the release date on this intake manifold, is there any info available on the web?
Chris
Chris
05-24-2005, 04:48 PM
#66
Originally Posted by Lorca@Z1
Zach,
If your car was making around 240whp before the Vortech intall and 343 after at 6.1 psi, that is approximately 17 whp per PSI so it might be asking a bit much to get an additional 57whp from an additional 1.9 psi. I personally have not seen more than 390 from 8 psi on the Vortech.
Have the installer adjust the lock nut on the BOV to make sure it is not venting too early. Good luck!
If your car was making around 240whp before the Vortech intall and 343 after at 6.1 psi, that is approximately 17 whp per PSI so it might be asking a bit much to get an additional 57whp from an additional 1.9 psi. I personally have not seen more than 390 from 8 psi on the Vortech.
Have the installer adjust the lock nut on the BOV to make sure it is not venting too early. Good luck!
05-24-2005, 04:51 PM
#67
Originally Posted by LeMans350z
Check the BOV. I did not install my vacuum line to the BOV and was getting the same boost as you. Try checking the vacuum line to the plenum.
Have you adjusted the BOV at all? I had mine adjusted to 6 visible threads. Vortech says leave the BOV stock out of the box however other people told me to change it.
Jeremy
Have you adjusted the BOV at all? I had mine adjusted to 6 visible threads. Vortech says leave the BOV stock out of the box however other people told me to change it.
Jeremy
05-30-2005, 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by sentry65
where you been?
check their site or search
check their site or search
BTW - still no N/A numbers unless I've totally missed them somewhere.
05-30-2005, 01:26 PM
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Zach, if you adjust the bypass valve, you shouldn't have to retune if your tuner set the cell values correctly. Basically, you will slightly change the RPMvsBoost level points. That is, where now you make 6.1lbs at 6000rpm, you may (because you adjust the bypass to hold boost longer) hit 6.1lbs at 5000rpm. As long as the R4 software has the correct setting for that value, you will not need to retune. Though, IMO, it will be safer if you do and, if they are reputable shop, they should cut you some slack if you bring it back to them.
SungNamZ... nice numbers btw. I presume you're running the regular 3.33" pulley on your Vortech? Also, you said you're running the PE 380 injectors... are you still setting fuel with the SS box & R4 software? I was thinking of putting Greddy 440s in my car, but do not want to have to switch electronics from the SS to Emanage.
SungNamZ... nice numbers btw. I presume you're running the regular 3.33" pulley on your Vortech? Also, you said you're running the PE 380 injectors... are you still setting fuel with the SS box & R4 software? I was thinking of putting Greddy 440s in my car, but do not want to have to switch electronics from the SS to Emanage.
05-30-2005, 01:31 PM
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for those questioning some of the Vortech numbers posted, I think SungNamZ is at a higher altitude which will lower the overall value of the dynos. More important is to look at the gains he and Zach hit.
Zach's gain of 103rwhp over his non-Vortech numbers sounds right since he is not getting all of his boost (only 6.1lbs). Two more pounds would put him in the 130ish range for hp gains which should be dead on. Cannot say on SungnamZ's car since he did not post pre-Vortech numbers.
Zach's gain of 103rwhp over his non-Vortech numbers sounds right since he is not getting all of his boost (only 6.1lbs). Two more pounds would put him in the 130ish range for hp gains which should be dead on. Cannot say on SungnamZ's car since he did not post pre-Vortech numbers.
05-30-2005, 01:52 PM
#73
Thanks Andy. My car is in the shop now getting new pads and front tires installed now. I will look into the bypass valve when I get it back later this week. I have also seen some dyno sheets finally on my car. The AFR looks screwed up. The shop did say that the car was seeing around high 11s to low 12s (12.2 ish) under WOT but the dyno sheets do not show this. They are showing a very erratic line for AFRs which range from 10s to mid 15s.
05-30-2005, 04:20 PM
#75
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Originally Posted by mcduck
Zach, if you adjust the bypass valve, you shouldn't have to retune if your tuner set the cell values correctly. Basically, you will slightly change the RPMvsBoost level points. That is, where now you make 6.1lbs at 6000rpm, you may (because you adjust the bypass to hold boost longer) hit 6.1lbs at 5000rpm. As long as the R4 software has the correct setting for that value, you will not need to retune. Though, IMO, it will be safer if you do and, if they are reputable shop, they should cut you some slack if you bring it back to them.
SungNamZ... nice numbers btw. I presume you're running the regular 3.33" pulley on your Vortech? Also, you said you're running the PE 380 injectors... are you still setting fuel with the SS box & R4 software? I was thinking of putting Greddy 440s in my car, but do not want to have to switch electronics from the SS to Emanage.
SungNamZ... nice numbers btw. I presume you're running the regular 3.33" pulley on your Vortech? Also, you said you're running the PE 380 injectors... are you still setting fuel with the SS box & R4 software? I was thinking of putting Greddy 440s in my car, but do not want to have to switch electronics from the SS to Emanage.
Zach, after working out the problems is showing some good numbers. With a good tuner, he should be able to smooth out the A/F. The SS box and the ECU is very tempermental.
I was shocked with 416 given the high 90 temp on that day, plus the altitude.
05-30-2005, 04:25 PM
#76
Originally Posted by SungNamZ
Zach, after working out the problems is showing some good numbers. With a good tuner, he should be able to smooth out the A/F. The SS box and the ECU is very tempermental.
I was shocked with 416 given the high 90 temp on that day, plus the altitude.
I was shocked with 416 given the high 90 temp on that day, plus the altitude.
I wonder what I would be puting down if I had the V4 instead of the manifold. I bet the numbers would be really low!
05-30-2005, 04:30 PM
#77
Originally Posted by zachcrosen
I have thought about taking it to someone who has tuned a Vortech on a Z. I just dont have the cash right now to do so. Do you think anything looks dangerous (ready to blow up) the way it is?
I wonder what I would be puting down if I had the V4 instead of the manifold. I bet the numbers would be really low!
I wonder what I would be puting down if I had the V4 instead of the manifold. I bet the numbers would be really low!
05-30-2005, 04:39 PM
#78
I need to contact the shop that did the install and tune tomorrow and see if I can find out which dyno sheet is the one that is of the car in its current state. They told me a HP # but it is not in any of the dyno sheets I got from the dyno shop. This is the same with the AFRs.
Does anyone have a "dead spot" when they accelerate slowly around 2750 RPMs? When I am cruising at a steady speed and RPM and I slightly accelerate, I get a slight hesitation of about 1-2 seconds around 2750-3000 RPMs. At this time, my air/fuel gauge bottoms out lean over 17. Has anyone else experienced this and is it something I should worry about immediately? This does not occur under heavy acceleration.
Does anyone have a "dead spot" when they accelerate slowly around 2750 RPMs? When I am cruising at a steady speed and RPM and I slightly accelerate, I get a slight hesitation of about 1-2 seconds around 2750-3000 RPMs. At this time, my air/fuel gauge bottoms out lean over 17. Has anyone else experienced this and is it something I should worry about immediately? This does not occur under heavy acceleration.
Last edited by zachcrosen; 05-30-2005 at 04:41 PM.
05-30-2005, 05:02 PM
#79
That seems to be the hardest spot for me to tune also . Its when the BOV closes and you start to go into boost . Im working on it and I got it better .Sounds like you need to add fuel at 3000rpm . Also...it depends on where you start to tune it . at -1psi or 0psi . And how soon your BOV closes .
Last edited by booger; 05-30-2005 at 05:05 PM.
05-30-2005, 05:40 PM
#80
Originally Posted by booger
That seems to be the hardest spot for me to tune also . Its when the BOV closes and you start to go into boost . Im working on it and I got it better .Sounds like you need to add fuel at 3000rpm . Also...it depends on where you start to tune it . at -1psi or 0psi . And how soon your BOV closes .