heh, yeah cleaning the rear bumper off once in a while is a must now.. the fuel smell will go away after a while, it's because of them having to open the tank up to add the new components.

I've thought about running my oil low just to see if it goes away... kinda scared though. In order for this to really start smoking I have to drive it for a while, like a 10 mile freeway trip, do a few boosts, hop off the freeway and hang at a stoplight. It isn't so bad until I hit the 2nd stoplight for some strange reason.

 

I checked my oil saturday and it was actually low...below the 'ADD' line, about halfway up the twisted part on the very end, if you know what I mean. It was definately smoking then, and since I 'topped it off' to the low line, it's worse. I'm afraid to lower it any more than it was, I'll just let GRD look at it. Who knows, maybe they need to work with the oil returns some more; we'll see on Friday.

 

Well they smoked on some of the first installs too though it wasnt mentioned much on the board.

Trust me I went round and round with APS on this one back in November..

 

And did Mr. Peter have the same response then?

 

It's gotta be something w/ the oil returns. The Greddy kit actually has this part of their setup down.

 

Remember though Greddy and APS use two different turbos so the theory maybe the same but the way to approach the return maybe different..

BTW What does the returns look like on the greddy kit?

 

I mentioned the Greddy lines to Peter on the other board, but he hasnt responded to my commentary yet. Personally, I think it would be better if APS could modify future kits, so the oil pan fitting is positioned at a 45 degree angle, and simply attach a straight piece of rubber hose. Those would make it nearly impossible for oil to become restricted in the "turns".

See pic of the Greddy design.

 

Thanks Shariff and g356gear. I'll have the installer check it out.

 

I can see how the oil could back up the drain tubes if the oil level was too high. If you put too much oil in the motor and it fills the new oil pan to the top of the drain fittings then that would effectively block the oil from draining down the tube into an open pan. Even flowing at only 0.4 litres per min at 60 psi it would have nowhere to go and would back up right away into the turbos.

 

But a majority of the oil is located in the upper pan and circulating through the engine...so it would stand to reason that the lower pan is always "filled to the brim", for lack of a better term.

 

Exactly. That's why I think the kickouts on the ends of the pan may serve a dual purpose. To aid in cooling but also to increase the bottom surface of the pan to drop the oil level down a bit at the top where the returns dump back in.

 

I had the same problem with mine.... call scott performance @(408)988-2233 ..ted will explain it all to you... its not that big of a deal....

 

I talked to Julian @MRC earlier today and he said trimming the oil lines is important, BUT, only filling it with 5.5 quarts of oil is critical and to make sure you're running 10/40. He went on to say that the assembly lube and coatings on various components take some time to burn off and you should plan on some smoke for approx 1,000 miles. So, that's my plan.

Anybody else with a motor that's past the break-in period using the beefier actuators? I'm really keeping my foot out of it until I get some more miles.

 

could another solution be adding an oil pump for the LHS oil return.. that seems to be the one with the toughest return path.. its a bit disconcerning that the kit is so sensitive to the oil level.. this could be a simple and not that costly solution to put in place

 

But if your oil level wasn't perfect, you'd just be pumping the oil into a full pan, faster.

 

correct.. but at least it would not require the james bond excuse and it would go with the intent of this kit (at least thats a view one could infer from the aps tt posts) as straight forward fi kit for the z.. but definately agree if following the intructions to the t prevents this issue then its a non-issue in my book

 

Merged APS smoking posts to one thread..

 

So is your shop now happy with new actuator setup?

 

not shure if you have checked it yet but if you have not filed the oil to the new mark on the dip stick as APS instructs you will have a problem with oil blowby. if your installer has not made a new mark for you, then the low mark is the now your full mark. hope this helps!!

 

i had a problem with overfilling with the jwt oil pan spacer...the oil that was burning was not blowby...it was oil seeping through the turbo seals due to the increased oil volume/pressure not allowing the turbos to drain sufficiently back into the lower oil pan-thereby forcing oil through the seals---that's actually my theory...i have a catch can-so it is not blowby


TODD