FI Engines Running Too Hot???
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FI Engines Running Too Hot???
I am up in Canada, and believe it or not we've had a heat wave on for the past two-three weeks - like 35c - 100+F hot.
Since the heat wave I've noticed that in traffic my Z's coolant temperature keeps creeping up to the high point before the fans come on....also, the A/C runs hot i.e. hotter than the hot outside air if the car is stationary.
Anyone else experiencing this in hot climates??
I am running Vortech, Koyo Rad - Also installed Mocal oil cooler on driverside, also running Power Enterprise enlarged oil pan. Thought I anticipated my heat management needs. I had 4.5 litres of oil in it - added about a litre....worried it might be too much. Also overfilled my coolant reservoir....will see if that helps tomorrow....the heat wave continues.
I have heard good and bad about Redline's water wetter.....it works, but may gum up a rad's inners over the years. I am reluctant to try it.
Saw another thread on here about getting an HKS Fan controller to get the rad fan to turn on sooner. Anyone try this yet???
Questions, comments, your experiences are welcome...
Since the heat wave I've noticed that in traffic my Z's coolant temperature keeps creeping up to the high point before the fans come on....also, the A/C runs hot i.e. hotter than the hot outside air if the car is stationary.
Anyone else experiencing this in hot climates??
I am running Vortech, Koyo Rad - Also installed Mocal oil cooler on driverside, also running Power Enterprise enlarged oil pan. Thought I anticipated my heat management needs. I had 4.5 litres of oil in it - added about a litre....worried it might be too much. Also overfilled my coolant reservoir....will see if that helps tomorrow....the heat wave continues.
I have heard good and bad about Redline's water wetter.....it works, but may gum up a rad's inners over the years. I am reluctant to try it.
Saw another thread on here about getting an HKS Fan controller to get the rad fan to turn on sooner. Anyone try this yet???
Questions, comments, your experiences are welcome...
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I am thinking there is air in the system still from the Koyo radiator change-out. In another thread Sharif mentioned he had some temp issues. He then flushed the system again and again...got more air out each time....and dropped his temps several degrees. Worth a shot.
Here's the excerpt
Interestingly enough, we were doing some more tuning on the car last night, and I decided to purge the system again. We tried some new techniques, and I swear, there was a fountain of foam and bubbles visible as we bled the system. It was really disgusting...but after 2 more hours, we finallly got everything out. The car runs remarkable cooler. Full throttle load based dyno pulls never saw more than 208F!! We were used to seeing 220-225F prior to the most recent purge. At idle...the temp was 190F on the dyno.
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Here's the excerpt
Interestingly enough, we were doing some more tuning on the car last night, and I decided to purge the system again. We tried some new techniques, and I swear, there was a fountain of foam and bubbles visible as we bled the system. It was really disgusting...but after 2 more hours, we finallly got everything out. The car runs remarkable cooler. Full throttle load based dyno pulls never saw more than 208F!! We were used to seeing 220-225F prior to the most recent purge. At idle...the temp was 190F on the dyno.
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Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
^^Part art, part science^^
If your needle is physically moving up, your car is running dangerously hot. The needle is very lazy, and does not move from 180F to 230F, so movement in the needle indicates temps even hotter than that.
If your needle is physically moving up, your car is running dangerously hot. The needle is very lazy, and does not move from 180F to 230F, so movement in the needle indicates temps even hotter than that.
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Definitely not normal. It has to be a bubble in the cooling system. PLEASE do not boost like this. If your needle is moving, you car is running super hot. Avoid any boost until your needle is back in place.
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Originally Posted by g356gear
We tried some new techniques, and I swear, there was a fountain of foam and bubbles visible as we bled the system. It was really disgusting...but after 2 more hours, we finallly got everything out. The car runs remarkable cooler. Full throttle load based dyno pulls never saw more than 208F!! We were used to seeing 220-225F prior to the most recent purge. At idle...the temp was 190F on the dyno.
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Last edited by GurgenPB; 07-01-2005 at 10:37 PM.
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Originally Posted by GurgenPB
What's this new technique Steve. I think i still some (very little air) in teh system since last time. Too busy to do hook up my custom water bottle apparatus. Maybe you got a better idea.
G
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https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....7&page=1&pp=20
Last edited by g356gear; 07-01-2005 at 10:38 PM.
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Here's the "art" I had to do:
Engine cold (radiator cold). Opened pressure cap. Filled coolant a bit (was a bit low). Out came some air bubbles. Closed cap. Started car. Yay! AC runs fine.
Could be as simple as that. Could be as "artistic" as mentioned above.
Cheers.
Engine cold (radiator cold). Opened pressure cap. Filled coolant a bit (was a bit low). Out came some air bubbles. Closed cap. Started car. Yay! AC runs fine.
Could be as simple as that. Could be as "artistic" as mentioned above.
Cheers.
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Well, I am convinced that my problem is that my tuner swapped out the stock fans for two 10 inch slimline permacool fans. - Covers maybe 60% of the Koyo. I have ordered a 16" and 13" SPAL fan to replace these and see if helps keep me running cooler in traffic.
A bit dissapointed in my tuner throwing such small fans behind my rad....
A bit dissapointed in my tuner throwing such small fans behind my rad....
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