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FI Engines Running Too Hot???

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Old 06-28-2005, 07:20 PM
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luanda
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Default FI Engines Running Too Hot???

I am up in Canada, and believe it or not we've had a heat wave on for the past two-three weeks - like 35c - 100+F hot.

Since the heat wave I've noticed that in traffic my Z's coolant temperature keeps creeping up to the high point before the fans come on....also, the A/C runs hot i.e. hotter than the hot outside air if the car is stationary.

Anyone else experiencing this in hot climates??

I am running Vortech, Koyo Rad - Also installed Mocal oil cooler on driverside, also running Power Enterprise enlarged oil pan. Thought I anticipated my heat management needs. I had 4.5 litres of oil in it - added about a litre....worried it might be too much. Also overfilled my coolant reservoir....will see if that helps tomorrow....the heat wave continues.

I have heard good and bad about Redline's water wetter.....it works, but may gum up a rad's inners over the years. I am reluctant to try it.

Saw another thread on here about getting an HKS Fan controller to get the rad fan to turn on sooner. Anyone try this yet???

Questions, comments, your experiences are welcome...
Old 06-28-2005, 07:32 PM
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westpak
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Not down here is Sunny Florida. might want to check to make sure all air is out of the cooling system.
Old 06-28-2005, 07:34 PM
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JGV350Z
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Again, in FLA, 90 degree very humid heat. No Probs.
Old 06-28-2005, 07:38 PM
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luanda
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Hey JGV350Z you running Vortech or a TT??

Originally Posted by JGV350Z
Again, in FLA, 90 degree very humid heat. No Probs.
Old 06-28-2005, 08:35 PM
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g356gear
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I am thinking there is air in the system still from the Koyo radiator change-out. In another thread Sharif mentioned he had some temp issues. He then flushed the system again and again...got more air out each time....and dropped his temps several degrees. Worth a shot.

Here's the excerpt

Interestingly enough, we were doing some more tuning on the car last night, and I decided to purge the system again. We tried some new techniques, and I swear, there was a fountain of foam and bubbles visible as we bled the system. It was really disgusting...but after 2 more hours, we finallly got everything out. The car runs remarkable cooler. Full throttle load based dyno pulls never saw more than 208F!! We were used to seeing 220-225F prior to the most recent purge. At idle...the temp was 190F on the dyno.
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Old 06-29-2005, 05:23 AM
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D@ActiveTuning
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Yup, based on similar experiences, I'd say the same thing. Getting all of the air out of these systems is an art.
Old 06-29-2005, 06:06 AM
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Sharif@Forged
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^^Part art, part science^^

If your needle is physically moving up, your car is running dangerously hot. The needle is very lazy, and does not move from 180F to 230F, so movement in the needle indicates temps even hotter than that.
Old 06-29-2005, 06:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
^^Part art, part science^^

If your needle is physically moving up, your car is running dangerously hot. The needle is very lazy, and does not move from 180F to 230F, so movement in the needle indicates temps even hotter than that.
Or like a problem with mine, there is an air pocket in the coolant. If that air pocket is located where the temp sensor is, it will make it look like the engine is a lot hotter than it is in actual reality.
Old 06-29-2005, 07:11 AM
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t32gzz
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Definitely not normal. It has to be a bubble in the cooling system. PLEASE do not boost like this. If your needle is moving, you car is running super hot. Avoid any boost until your needle is back in place.
Old 06-30-2005, 08:01 PM
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JGV350Z
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Originally Posted by luanda
Hey JGV350Z you running Vortech or a TT??
Vortech Supercharger
Old 07-01-2005, 10:32 PM
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GurgenPB
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Originally Posted by g356gear
We tried some new techniques, and I swear, there was a fountain of foam and bubbles visible as we bled the system. It was really disgusting...but after 2 more hours, we finallly got everything out. The car runs remarkable cooler. Full throttle load based dyno pulls never saw more than 208F!! We were used to seeing 220-225F prior to the most recent purge. At idle...the temp was 190F on the dyno.
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What's this new technique Steve. I think i still have some (very little) air in teh system since last time. Too busy to do hook up my custom water bottle apparatus. Maybe you got a better idea.

G

Last edited by GurgenPB; 07-01-2005 at 10:37 PM.
Old 07-01-2005, 10:36 PM
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g356gear
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Originally Posted by GurgenPB
What's this new technique Steve. I think i still some (very little air) in teh system since last time. Too busy to do hook up my custom water bottle apparatus. Maybe you got a better idea.

G
Hey Gurgen....that was an excerpt from a post that Sharif had done earlier.

https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....7&page=1&pp=20

Last edited by g356gear; 07-01-2005 at 10:38 PM.
Old 07-02-2005, 07:06 AM
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westpak
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The shop here bought a new machine that sucks the air out not sure how it works but they love it specially since the APS does away with the bleed.
Old 07-04-2005, 06:20 PM
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ZZtopp
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105-108 here the last couple of weeks. APS TT and the coolant temp never even reaches half way....stock radiator. So far, no problems.
Old 07-05-2005, 09:39 AM
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bascelik
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Here's the "art" I had to do:

Engine cold (radiator cold). Opened pressure cap. Filled coolant a bit (was a bit low). Out came some air bubbles. Closed cap. Started car. Yay! AC runs fine.

Could be as simple as that. Could be as "artistic" as mentioned above.

Cheers.
Old 07-05-2005, 10:39 AM
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nissansource
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What I always do is put the car on a incline or jack it up. fill and refill from there.
Old 07-05-2005, 04:15 PM
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luanda
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Well, I am convinced that my problem is that my tuner swapped out the stock fans for two 10 inch slimline permacool fans. - Covers maybe 60% of the Koyo. I have ordered a 16" and 13" SPAL fan to replace these and see if helps keep me running cooler in traffic.

A bit dissapointed in my tuner throwing such small fans behind my rad....
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