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turbonetics question

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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 05:22 PM
  #41  
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alright, this weekend im going to give it a try. My only doubt are, the block is aluminum so i dont think welding will hold because i believe its about 9psi of oil. Like what kocbean said, I have nothing to lose. I wonder if turbonetics will pay for labor and ill just bring it to a mechanic shop. any one know?


thanks
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 05:28 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by SPRacing
alright, this weekend im going to give it a try. My only doubt are, the block is aluminum so i dont think welding will hold because i believe its about 9psi of oil. Like what kocbean said, I have nothing to lose. I wonder if turbonetics will pay for labor and ill just bring it to a mechanic shop. any one know?


thanks
SJW tried to weld his and it wouldn't take because the metal is permeated with oil (so says the welder). I would just tap the hole, and put a bolt in it with some gasket maker as a seal.
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 05:34 PM
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So wait you installed everything and the ball was in place but you had a small oil leak from the T. Did you use Teflon tape or paste BTW? So then after that you removed everything, cleaned it, reinstalled it, and then the ball fell out!? I'm not trying to be a d!ck here but why would Turbonetics pay for this. IIRC they send out a tap with every kit just to make sure that when you install the T fitting everything fits fine. The only person with or without the tap that ever had the pan crack was Sir Johnny. If your oil pan does not have a crack and the ball just fell out I can't see how you expect them to pay for it.
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Old Oct 5, 2005 | 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by MIAPLAYA
So wait you installed everything and the ball was in place but you had a small oil leak from the T. Did you use Teflon tape or paste BTW? So then after that you removed everything, cleaned it, reinstalled it, and then the ball fell out!? I'm not trying to be a d!ck here but why would Turbonetics pay for this. IIRC they send out a tap with every kit just to make sure that when you install the T fitting everything fits fine. The only person with or without the tap that ever had the pan crack was Sir Johnny. If your oil pan does not have a crack and the ball just fell out I can't see how you expect them to pay for it.
Agreed, seems like a bad luck on the intial install
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Old Oct 7, 2005 | 11:25 AM
  #45  
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I believe the t-fitiing for the turbo lines are 1/10 of a milimeter too long. which cracked a sealing that holds the ball in place. If you just screw in the oil sensor by itsself without the T-fiting then it will never reach too far to crack the sealing of the ball. No worries, I dont take it offensivly but im not here to justify myself to you guys. And i do appreciate the help.
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Old Oct 26, 2005 | 02:03 PM
  #46  
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the upper oil pan was only 120 so i fixed everything and even installed a new clutch and flywheel. But after 2 to 3 months of my car just sitting, it won't start. but it cranks. Any ideas?
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Old Oct 26, 2005 | 02:10 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by SPRacing
the upper oil pan was only 120 so i fixed everything and even installed a new clutch and flywheel. But after 2 to 3 months of my car just sitting, it won't start. but it cranks. Any ideas?
Might sound stupid but are you sure the battery is not dead...I have seen cars crank and not start and after changing batteries they work fine...After 2-3 months the fuel may be starting to go to ****...you could try dumping the fuel and refilling.
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Old Oct 26, 2005 | 09:45 PM
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Question Crank Angle Sensor - Pls Check output

Originally Posted by SPRacing
the upper oil pan was only 120 so i fixed everything and even installed a new clutch and flywheel. But after 2 to 3 months of my car just sitting, it won't start. but it cranks. Any ideas?
Crank Angle Sensor - Pls Check output

I take it - you removed the Crank angle sensor from the bell housing before droping the trans.

Any chance the Crank Angle Sensor wires were not damaged during the clutch change.

Cheers Amy -
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Old Oct 27, 2005 | 12:47 AM
  #49  
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amycroft i believe your on the dot. I just got back from my mechanic shop, they said im not gettin spark by the crank sensor. they checked the sensor and wiring, both have power and ground. so its the flywheel which I bought it from a local private seller (cyn-r-g flywheel). Any ideas?

thanks
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Old Oct 27, 2005 | 12:50 AM
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any one has RPS number so i can ask them about it?
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Old Oct 27, 2005 | 06:46 AM
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Originally Posted by SPRacing
any one has RPS number so i can ask them about it?
I think there was a thread about there being a magnetic pick up point on the stock and most aftermarket flywheels and that if its not there you wont get a crank signal at all..
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Old Oct 28, 2005 | 09:55 AM
  #52  
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my car cranks but just wont light up. "if its not there you wont get a crank signal at all", so miaplaya, are saying theres a chance its not my flywheel? Im going crazy because of this car. things keeps on happening. Thanks for the help guys
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Old Oct 28, 2005 | 12:05 PM
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Originally Posted by SPRacing
my car cranks but just wont light up. "if its not there you wont get a crank signal at all", so miaplaya, are saying theres a chance its not my flywheel? Im going crazy because of this car. things keeps on happening. Thanks for the help guys
No I'm saying it could be your flywheel. The stock flywheel has pick up points on it so that the sensor knows what position the crank is in...if the new flywheel doesnt have those you wont get a crank signal. However the car should still fire after a minute or two of cranking as the car should switch over to using the cam angle sensors and start the car. How long did you crank it for? Also check the crank angle sensor and wires like Amycroft said. Also make sure the ECU is securely connected.
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Old Oct 28, 2005 | 04:51 PM
  #54  
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to a point where i felt the pain of each crank, many times. To be sure i just order a new crank sensor. And hope thats the issue. ill post more updates by monday. Have a good weekend you guys.
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