Emanage Ultimate Idle Issues, Cams, Tilton, and a bunch of other junk on '05
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From: Midwest
i'd suggest strongly rethinking the AEM CDI plan... those things have got to be the least reliable piece of electronics on the planet (and I'm a huge AEM EMS fan, so this isn't mindless bashing of a company)... IME an MSD DIS-4 is much more reliable, or if you don't mind the price, the M&W Pro ignitions are completely insane!
Sharif, what can we do as a community to put some heat on Greddy about this coil issue? This is seriously ridiculous!!
Sharif, what can we do as a community to put some heat on Greddy about this coil issue? This is seriously ridiculous!!
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From: Southwest Florida
I have ran the C2DI before, and blown them up before, but I can say that it was my fault (or rather, someone's fault around the car, but we won't get in to that!) Why do you think the C2DI is unreliable? Just curious.
Thanks
Chris
Thanks
Chris
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Midwest
because of firsthand feedback from other tuners... I am a factory trained EMS dealer... I sell, install and dyno tune their EMS's and I absolutely won't touch the ignition box... here are some comments from other BIG shops around the country that also love the EMS but hate the C2DI (I did a lot of asking around when I was picking a CDI box for my race car and wanted to know what people thought of the AEM C2DI):
"We go through CDI boxes like water. We have them break, melt, not work
correctly, etc. We have had cars where you remove the CDI and are able to
run more boost with no misfire. I'd love to be able to say that we simply
don't know what we're doing, but I really don't think that's the case."
"The C2DI has had some issues, I personally know of more than a dozen, letting the "goo" out. I personally have been using the DIS-4 on most apps."
and of course about 5 minutes of looking around on the EMS forums shows one "my CDI is dead" post after another... the bottom line -- it's a potential headache that you don't need!! BTW, on the Supras we also have great luck with the HKS DLI...
"We go through CDI boxes like water. We have them break, melt, not work
correctly, etc. We have had cars where you remove the CDI and are able to
run more boost with no misfire. I'd love to be able to say that we simply
don't know what we're doing, but I really don't think that's the case."
"The C2DI has had some issues, I personally know of more than a dozen, letting the "goo" out. I personally have been using the DIS-4 on most apps."
and of course about 5 minutes of looking around on the EMS forums shows one "my CDI is dead" post after another... the bottom line -- it's a potential headache that you don't need!! BTW, on the Supras we also have great luck with the HKS DLI...
Originally Posted by cjb80
The problem was that the eManage fried a bunch of my coils. After having purchased a couple other motors, fortunately I have extra sets of coils!! 
4 of my coils have eaten it so far, and I figured out that you can look for a nice melted bulge on the side of it to quickly determine if they are hosed!!! (cool feature!)
I haven;t left the car in the on position for more than 20 seconds or so, except for one coil, where the car stalled and I forgot the turn the car off. As I was trying to find the bad coil, or fouled plug, I was hovering over the engine, and I noticed the coil starting to smoke!
4 of my coils have eaten it so far, and I figured out that you can look for a nice melted bulge on the side of it to quickly determine if they are hosed!!! (cool feature!)I haven;t left the car in the on position for more than 20 seconds or so, except for one coil, where the car stalled and I forgot the turn the car off. As I was trying to find the bad coil, or fouled plug, I was hovering over the engine, and I noticed the coil starting to smoke!
Sharif,
Can you chime in on this?
Originally Posted by cjb80
There's no confusion that it has burnt 4 of my coils and one of them was from leaving it in the on position for a couple minutes.
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
Background notes:
THe EU has been tested by Greddy Japan, Greddy USA, and myself, and at last we can confirm that diodes are not needed on the ignition harness output wires. They have used completely new ignition and injector drivers, and this has solved the problem of the blown coils.
THe EU has been tested by Greddy Japan, Greddy USA, and myself, and at last we can confirm that diodes are not needed on the ignition harness output wires. They have used completely new ignition and injector drivers, and this has solved the problem of the blown coils.
Originally Posted by cjb80
I can send one blown coil to japan, greddy usa, sharif, and still have one left over!!
The blown coils occur under two circumstances.
1) You have eManage blue and you dont have diodes installed on the ignition wires
2) You have either an eManage blue with diode, or an EU without diodes, and you leave the key in the on position withou the motor running for an extended period of time.
Both of which are easily avoidable...now that everyone knows about it.
CJ, I have a few blown coils of my own sitting on the shelf. Chalk it up to experimentation with the Emanage Blue, and R&D.
Regarding the CDI, I have never seen a need for ignition applifiers with the Nissan DIS system. Never had a spark blow out, or audible misfire even at 20psi. Nissan's direct coil over plug setup is about as good as you will need, for an engine that revs to 7100rpm or so.
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
The blown coils occur under two circumstances.
1) You have eManage blue and you dont have diodes installed on the ignition wires
2) You have either an eManage blue with diode, or an EU without diodes, and you leave the key in the on position withou the motor running for an extended period of time.
Both of which are easily avoidable...now that everyone knows about it.
1) You have eManage blue and you dont have diodes installed on the ignition wires
2) You have either an eManage blue with diode, or an EU without diodes, and you leave the key in the on position withou the motor running for an extended period of time.
Both of which are easily avoidable...now that everyone knows about it.
Would adding the diodes to the EU add some level of safe guard against burning coils? Not that I intend on leaving the car is the on position with out the motor running, but 20 seconds is an awfully short amount of time.
Originally Posted by cjb80
I believe I resolved my idle problem, well the mysterious part of it anyways. The problem was that the eManage fried a bunch of my coils. After having purchased a couple other motors, fortunately I have extra sets of coils!! 4 of my coils have eaten it so far, and I figured out that you can look for a nice melted bulge on the side of it to quickly determine if they are hosed!!! (cool feature!)
I haven;t left the car in the on position for more than 20 seconds or so, except for one coil, where the car stalled and I forgot the turn the car off. As I was trying to find the bad coil, or fouled plug, I was hovering over the engine, and I noticed the coil starting to smoke!
I checked the rest of the coils, and they all were fine. I replaced the bad coil, and the car didn't misfire, however I still have the problem with the car spinning down and stalling (due to cams, and tilton).
I am sending my ECU to Technosquare today and I am going to have them raise the rev limiter to 7500, increase idle to 1100, and he mentioned something about the throttle body closing slightly at higher rpm with the stock ECU (which will be removed).
I ran the car at 10 psi today also, and it pulls pretty good, now I am trying to get actuators so I can run higher boost levels. My goal is to run 16 psi, I think with 8,5:1 compression and a rich air fuel ratio of around 11.5:1 the setup should last a long time. I expect 550-600 rear wheel when I am done. Currently at 10 psi (max boost I can make for some reason??) the car is squeeling the tires in second gear with just a roll on, which is a cool effect.
Anyways, I am considering messing with the Diodes to try and fix the problem, or just changing the ignition system to a 929 Honda CBR ignition coil setup with AEM C2DI ignition system. I have all the parts on hand, and I could have it running with the new setup in 2-3 hours. There are no charge times withthat sort of ignition system, it's ethier sparking or not. I just need to make sure the signal to spark is > whatever the emanage is putting out whenever it's just sitting around in the on position.
Chris
4 of my coils have eaten it so far, and I figured out that you can look for a nice melted bulge on the side of it to quickly determine if they are hosed!!! (cool feature!)I haven;t left the car in the on position for more than 20 seconds or so, except for one coil, where the car stalled and I forgot the turn the car off. As I was trying to find the bad coil, or fouled plug, I was hovering over the engine, and I noticed the coil starting to smoke!
I checked the rest of the coils, and they all were fine. I replaced the bad coil, and the car didn't misfire, however I still have the problem with the car spinning down and stalling (due to cams, and tilton).
I am sending my ECU to Technosquare today and I am going to have them raise the rev limiter to 7500, increase idle to 1100, and he mentioned something about the throttle body closing slightly at higher rpm with the stock ECU (which will be removed).
I ran the car at 10 psi today also, and it pulls pretty good, now I am trying to get actuators so I can run higher boost levels. My goal is to run 16 psi, I think with 8,5:1 compression and a rich air fuel ratio of around 11.5:1 the setup should last a long time. I expect 550-600 rear wheel when I am done. Currently at 10 psi (max boost I can make for some reason??) the car is squeeling the tires in second gear with just a roll on, which is a cool effect.
Anyways, I am considering messing with the Diodes to try and fix the problem, or just changing the ignition system to a 929 Honda CBR ignition coil setup with AEM C2DI ignition system. I have all the parts on hand, and I could have it running with the new setup in 2-3 hours. There are no charge times withthat sort of ignition system, it's ethier sparking or not. I just need to make sure the signal to spark is > whatever the emanage is putting out whenever it's just sitting around in the on position.
Chris
good deal, i actually got mine running last night too. i just went into the emanage and started a new file using only the injector and ignition maps and nothing else. it will idle now and no longer stall. but idle is way to low at the factory 650. will be sending my ecm out too for a flash.
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Originally Posted by Gman2004
Would adding the diodes to the EU add some level of safe guard against burning coils? Not that I intend on leaving the car is the on position with out the motor running, but 20 seconds is an awfully short amount of time.
Chris
Originally Posted by Gman2004
Would adding the diodes to the EU add some level of safe guard against burning coils? Not that I intend on leaving the car is the on position with out the motor running, but 20 seconds is an awfully short amount of time.
Gman..you need much more than 20secs to burn the coils. Several minutes at least...maybe even an hour.
As a general rule, dont leave it in the on position for more than 1 min.
I would not recommend putting in diodes with the EU.
Last edited by Sharif@Forged; Aug 17, 2005 at 11:51 AM.
Originally Posted by cjb80
I believe I resolved my idle problem, well the mysterious part of it anyways. The problem was that the eManage fried a bunch of my coils. After having purchased a couple other motors, fortunately I have extra sets of coils!! 4 of my coils have eaten it so far, and I figured out that you can look for a nice melted bulge on the side of it to quickly determine if they are hosed!!! (cool feature!)
I haven;t left the car in the on position for more than 20 seconds or so, except for one coil, where the car stalled and I forgot the turn the car off. As I was trying to find the bad coil, or fouled plug, I was hovering over the engine, and I noticed the coil starting to smoke!
I checked the rest of the coils, and they all were fine. I replaced the bad coil, and the car didn't misfire, however I still have the problem with the car spinning down and stalling (due to cams, and tilton).
I am sending my ECU to Technosquare today and I am going to have them raise the rev limiter to 7500, increase idle to 1100, and he mentioned something about the throttle body closing slightly at higher rpm with the stock ECU (which will be removed).
I ran the car at 10 psi today also, and it pulls pretty good, now I am trying to get actuators so I can run higher boost levels. My goal is to run 16 psi, I think with 8,5:1 compression and a rich air fuel ratio of around 11.5:1 the setup should last a long time. I expect 550-600 rear wheel when I am done. Currently at 10 psi (max boost I can make for some reason??) the car is squeeling the tires in second gear with just a roll on, which is a cool effect.
Anyways, I am considering messing with the Diodes to try and fix the problem, or just changing the ignition system to a 929 Honda CBR ignition coil setup with AEM C2DI ignition system. I have all the parts on hand, and I could have it running with the new setup in 2-3 hours. There are no charge times withthat sort of ignition system, it's ethier sparking or not. I just need to make sure the signal to spark is > whatever the emanage is putting out whenever it's just sitting around in the on position.
Chris
4 of my coils have eaten it so far, and I figured out that you can look for a nice melted bulge on the side of it to quickly determine if they are hosed!!! (cool feature!)I haven;t left the car in the on position for more than 20 seconds or so, except for one coil, where the car stalled and I forgot the turn the car off. As I was trying to find the bad coil, or fouled plug, I was hovering over the engine, and I noticed the coil starting to smoke!
I checked the rest of the coils, and they all were fine. I replaced the bad coil, and the car didn't misfire, however I still have the problem with the car spinning down and stalling (due to cams, and tilton).
I am sending my ECU to Technosquare today and I am going to have them raise the rev limiter to 7500, increase idle to 1100, and he mentioned something about the throttle body closing slightly at higher rpm with the stock ECU (which will be removed).
I ran the car at 10 psi today also, and it pulls pretty good, now I am trying to get actuators so I can run higher boost levels. My goal is to run 16 psi, I think with 8,5:1 compression and a rich air fuel ratio of around 11.5:1 the setup should last a long time. I expect 550-600 rear wheel when I am done. Currently at 10 psi (max boost I can make for some reason??) the car is squeeling the tires in second gear with just a roll on, which is a cool effect.
Anyways, I am considering messing with the Diodes to try and fix the problem, or just changing the ignition system to a 929 Honda CBR ignition coil setup with AEM C2DI ignition system. I have all the parts on hand, and I could have it running with the new setup in 2-3 hours. There are no charge times withthat sort of ignition system, it's ethier sparking or not. I just need to make sure the signal to spark is > whatever the emanage is putting out whenever it's just sitting around in the on position.
Chris
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