new aps st data, any thought?
new aps st data, any thought?
we did lots of work on the G this weekend, i went over everything with a fine tooth comb, checked all connections, all fittings, found a small oil leak at the sending unit, fixed that, other than that everything was perfect.
i changed all the piping couplers with longer, heavy duty ones and heavier hose clamps so i could really torque down on them.
i pressurized my entire system, and no leaks under 20psi. what we did was get some short pvc pipe 2" with a cap, drilled and tapped with a compressor fitting with a valve and pressure gauge on it. slid it over the turbo intake inlet, and opened the valve and filled the system with 20 pounds. not so much as a fart from anything, the couplers, the plenum, the intercooler, nada. the little box beside the TB was clicking, i take it thats something to do with the idle control. other than that nothing.
i took off the electronic boost controller, along with the restrictor plug in the hose to the TB intake piping. i put a hallman pro manual boost controller on it. it did exactly what it was supposed to do with no interference with the unichip. no boost spikes, just smooth boost.
removed my exhaust once again to have zero backpressure.
had an exhaust shop look at the exhaust piping for possible leaks, again, none. everything is fine on that end.
recently got my unichip back from tuan for the 93 tune and some extras, he says he added a lot of boost duty cycle to the maps, ~99-100%. so he feels i should be maintaining boost. i do believe tuan did those things for me, hes been trying to help resolve this issue.
lastly we took the car to the dyno. made 3 runs, late last night, but it was still 92 degrees.
run1---299hp---333tq
run2---309hp---365tq
run3---313hp---341tq
boost still builds fast as hell, feels great, but still drops off at redline to anywhere between 3-5 psi. we can adjust the MBC up to 12 psi, but it still drops. now the butt sensor feels a big difference. before at 4500 rpms, i could feel the car choke and fall on its face, but now, its weird, the car still pulls hard, but the boost still drops, i cant explain it at all. AFR is perfect, starts about 12.5 and drops to 11.2 under full load.
so, the only thing i can come up with is that the actuator (WG)is weak, once the exhaust pressure opens it, it cant close to maintain boost, either its a bad actuator(WG) or just plain weak from aps. it can be nothing else. we have checked everything. some say it may be heat soak since my G bumper blocks the radiator a good bit, but i doubt it. the intake pipe is cool enough to put your tongue on it after several hard runs.
so tuan mentioned maybe swapping the actuator just like he did on kopos car and crossing our fingers. sorry its so long. hope yall might have some insight.
i changed all the piping couplers with longer, heavy duty ones and heavier hose clamps so i could really torque down on them.
i pressurized my entire system, and no leaks under 20psi. what we did was get some short pvc pipe 2" with a cap, drilled and tapped with a compressor fitting with a valve and pressure gauge on it. slid it over the turbo intake inlet, and opened the valve and filled the system with 20 pounds. not so much as a fart from anything, the couplers, the plenum, the intercooler, nada. the little box beside the TB was clicking, i take it thats something to do with the idle control. other than that nothing.
i took off the electronic boost controller, along with the restrictor plug in the hose to the TB intake piping. i put a hallman pro manual boost controller on it. it did exactly what it was supposed to do with no interference with the unichip. no boost spikes, just smooth boost.
removed my exhaust once again to have zero backpressure.
had an exhaust shop look at the exhaust piping for possible leaks, again, none. everything is fine on that end.
recently got my unichip back from tuan for the 93 tune and some extras, he says he added a lot of boost duty cycle to the maps, ~99-100%. so he feels i should be maintaining boost. i do believe tuan did those things for me, hes been trying to help resolve this issue.
lastly we took the car to the dyno. made 3 runs, late last night, but it was still 92 degrees.
run1---299hp---333tq
run2---309hp---365tq
run3---313hp---341tq
boost still builds fast as hell, feels great, but still drops off at redline to anywhere between 3-5 psi. we can adjust the MBC up to 12 psi, but it still drops. now the butt sensor feels a big difference. before at 4500 rpms, i could feel the car choke and fall on its face, but now, its weird, the car still pulls hard, but the boost still drops, i cant explain it at all. AFR is perfect, starts about 12.5 and drops to 11.2 under full load.
so, the only thing i can come up with is that the actuator (WG)is weak, once the exhaust pressure opens it, it cant close to maintain boost, either its a bad actuator(WG) or just plain weak from aps. it can be nothing else. we have checked everything. some say it may be heat soak since my G bumper blocks the radiator a good bit, but i doubt it. the intake pipe is cool enough to put your tongue on it after several hard runs.
so tuan mentioned maybe swapping the actuator just like he did on kopos car and crossing our fingers. sorry its so long. hope yall might have some insight.
Man we seem to be in similiar area with our performance numbers, I have a fuel problem or something along those lines and you seem to have your boost problem...
Good luck on swapping out the actuators and hopefully that will be the cause.
Good luck on swapping out the actuators and hopefully that will be the cause.
Did you have any trouble capping off the exhaust ? To preasurize the System . Took me a while before I got so it wouldnt leak . Good luck...hope the WG is the problem and you get it fixed
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