This "seems" to be at the root of my problem:

LINK

 

Aaron,
So what's up. Is it running smooth for you? What's with the smoking problem you mentioned. And just for prepost period, what is the solution.
Warren

 

Um, that 1/8th inch hole you have to drill is news to me.....I got my directions off their site. So it's possible the kit DID cause my motor to go bad, hmmmm.

 

Did GRD figure your problem out?

 

Chris,
That's not the of lately is it. Like when we just bought these kits?
WS

 

You have PM

 

Too much fuel washing the piston rings would hose the motor. It's not something that just comes and goes under certain driving conditions. Also fuel pressure can be high or low, the amount of fuel depends on the tune of the car (injector pulse width).

You'd have to be super rich to cause the rings to get washed out. It would basically have to be so rich that the plugs would foul and not be able to spark..... This can happen when you're trying to start the motor for extended periods of time (and it not start) and the cylinders fill up with fuel.

The result of this is that there is friction between the sleeves and the piston which can cause scoring, and also the oil gets so thing that there can be bearing damage.

As Peter says in the thread, I don't think that the fuel pressure is related at all. I did the mod you desribed because I have the CJ Motorsports fuel system with the APS, and I still have the smoking issue....

Chris

 

Is this the part your talking about on the aps site?
"Gently pry out the small plastic restrictor from the bottom of the pump/sender unit as detailed in Diagram FSS/08. This is a tight press fit component – do not use excessive force. Using small drill bits, progressively drill restrictor orifice to 1/8”. Reinstall restrictor back into pump/sender unit"
I didnt have this step when I did my fuel pump but its now on the site.

 

Yes.....that's the new step that has been added to the instructions.

 

This is not necessarily the case. I have seen a couple Honda motors that were super rich but ran fine. They eventually expired with toasted bearings and huge ring wear from all the unburned fuel in the oil. I think with the direct coil ignition on the vq35 it would be even less apparent that there was a richness problem from just buy how the motor runs.

 

I would almost guarantee it is an oil return line problem. At least that is almost always what it is on Hondas. It is gravity feed so the line must allow gravity to easily get the oil to the pan and the oil return should be above the level of the oil in the pan to prevent oil from backing up and blowing through your turbo seals and into your exhaust.

 

Has anyone with the oil drain problem tried a oil return pump like is included on the APS ST kit?

 

After looking at this document:

http://www.************************/...TFA_01-Oil.pdf

I don't see how anyone could mess up installing the oil return since it goes directly into the top of the oil pan included in the kit although I would still like to see it mounted higher up in the upper oil pan like the Vortech kit recommends. The only thing would be like mentioned a kinked hose or one that is level or goes at an incline at some point causing a back up. The other thing I have seen cause issues like this is too much oil pressure, as that can again force oil past the turbo seals.

 

never mind -

 

+1

 

I've only EVER smoke at WOT, and I smoke MORE on a cold engine then I do @ temp.

The only think I can think of is that when I'm cold my oil pressure is a LOT higher then when I'm @ running temp.

When I was on the dyno for a few hours I did lots of runs, and becase my temps were good, and my car was level... I didn't have ANY smoke...


What about this idea:

Now the oil return lines run FORWARD throw .8G accelration into the mix, and all the sudden the oil doesn't want to go that way... They move toward the front of the car MORE then they go down.

I can get .8 G accelration, and the car pitches back as the front lifts... Add all this up... climb a hill at full throttle, on a cold engine, and watch the smoke POUR!

This is what I deal with every morning on the ramp to the freeway... SMOKE!!!!! Otherwise its almost unnoticable... I just try to stay off it unless I'm level, and at proper running temp.

 

Sounds like it's more of a result of load than G's. There are lots of APS cars with the exact same oil returns with no smoke.

 

Just got word that they narrowed it down to my LHS turbo that is smoking.

Back to the drawing board

 

So this thread got me thinking again... Called a guy here who has a smoke issue, and he drove his car to Cali to get it looked at.

Apparently (the shop claims) there is a simple fix, but the shop made him swear on his mothers grave that he wouldn't disclose it becase they like being one of the few that can fix it.

/shrug I tried to pump him for info, because I know his car smoked pretty darn bad before. His car is still in Cali so I haven't seen it, but the shop claims they fixed it.

He told me that it had nothing to do with fuel pressure, or the oil return lines. So I have no ideas...

I'll believe they fixed it once I hear it from the owner... He has been going NUTS over this issue.

 

Yes Im dealing with the same shop. Im doing my own install and was told not to worry about it that it could be fixed easy.