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Old 12-05-2005, 02:39 PM
  #61  
sukhi
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Originally Posted by vision619
I blew my engine on a stage 3 Stillen kit.
I'm interested in knowing why your motor blew with the stage 3.
I have the stage 3 pulley on my car, it was lean until I upgraded the fuel pump. were your A/F ratios good?
Old 12-05-2005, 04:10 PM
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PANCHOVILLA
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Sukhi-Did you upgrade to WALBRO 255 or something else and was it the stock tune from STILLEN ,just dropped in the fuel pump as is?
Old 12-05-2005, 04:17 PM
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vision619
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Originally Posted by sukhi
I'm interested in knowing why your motor blew with the stage 3.
I have the stage 3 pulley on my car, it was lean until I upgraded the fuel pump. were your A/F ratios good?
Yeah. I was at JWT 1 week before it happened and the car was detonating like crazy on a load at 3,000 rpm. I decided to take out the Stillen Split second box, put in a real FTC Split Second box, remove the 7th injector and add an FMU and larger fuel pump but while I was waiting for the parts to get there, my engine blew on the way to Button Willow Raceway. I have now added those parts with the new engine as well as the methanol injection and the cars hauls *** and has NO det. problems at all.

All irrelevant for me at this point as the JWT TT kit is going in my car over at VRT this weekend. Now THAT I can't wait for!
Old 12-05-2005, 05:06 PM
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BlackSpec02
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I've got a few more ?'s for you.
What did it cost to have all those upgrades done to the stillen kit? What did the car dyno with them? Is det. a common prob with the stage 3 kit? I havent heard of anyone else having that problem yet. and I havent had it w/ stage 2.

You planning on selling your stage 3 upgrades?
Old 12-05-2005, 05:50 PM
  #65  
g35twinturbo
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wait a sec... it was happening on a load of 3k rpm. what did it feel like? My car is having a issue where the car is bucking and jerking sometimes at around 3k rpm and sometimes in 1st gear from 1k rpm to about 1800. Sometimes its very violent and it causes the vdc to come on.

I havent had a chance to bring the car into stillen, however they say they have never heard about anything where the car was jerking and bucking...

i got a CEL last week and it was a p0335 Crankshaft positioning sensor.


Originally Posted by vision619
Yeah. I was at JWT 1 week before it happened and the car was detonating like crazy on a load at 3,000 rpm. I decided to take out the Stillen Split second box, put in a real FTC Split Second box, remove the 7th injector and add an FMU and larger fuel pump but while I was waiting for the parts to get there, my engine blew on the way to Button Willow Raceway. I have now added those parts with the new engine as well as the methanol injection and the cars hauls *** and has NO det. problems at all.

All irrelevant for me at this point as the JWT TT kit is going in my car over at VRT this weekend. Now THAT I can't wait for!
Old 12-05-2005, 08:47 PM
  #66  
damelman
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Just to Clear the air I have a 145Mph 71 Camaro rusting away in my front yard! Parked since 1986 so I was making MONSTER HP before most of you Lads were even BORN ! 372 Cubic INCH 12 to 1 compression aluminum rods with a holley water injection 4 speed B&M Hydrostik THE BULLETproof automatic that put B & M Transmissions on the map. I ain't NEVER heard Anyone on this board bi*ch about snapping lug nuts from their car's torque! So sit back and listen and I might just teach ya some thing about making power with something other than a couple of hair dryers!
Old 12-06-2005, 07:49 AM
  #67  
sukhi
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Originally Posted by PANCHOVILLA
Sukhi-Did you upgrade to WALBRO 255 or something else and was it the stock tune from STILLEN ,just dropped in the fuel pump as is?
I installed the Walbro 190LPH pump. For some reason my car was lean and STILLEN tuned thier SS box to dump in some more fuel after 4.5k rpms. This helped slightly, but i think my stock pump was the culprit. Once I put in the walbro A/F ratios were in the 11s under full load to redline.
Old 12-06-2005, 09:14 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by g35twinturbo
wait a sec... it was happening on a load of 3k rpm. what did it feel like? My car is having a issue where the car is bucking and jerking sometimes at around 3k rpm and sometimes in 1st gear from 1k rpm to about 1800. Sometimes its very violent and it causes the vdc to come on.

I havent had a chance to bring the car into stillen, however they say they have never heard about anything where the car was jerking and bucking...

i got a CEL last week and it was a p0335 Crankshaft positioning sensor.
The Stillen control taps into the crankshaft positioning sensor. I would assume that it might be as simple as that particular wire just might have a bad connection. The crankshaft positioning sensor is the engines speed signal for the VDC which would be the reason your VDC light to sometimes comes on. Just have the particular wire checked for a solid connection.

Check that and let me know if it solves your problem.
Old 12-06-2005, 01:13 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by BlackSpec02
I've got a few more ?'s for you.
What did it cost to have all those upgrades done to the stillen kit? What did the car dyno with them? Is det. a common prob with the stage 3 kit? I havent heard of anyone else having that problem yet. and I havent had it w/ stage 2.

You planning on selling your stage 3 upgrades?
Vision619 - any insights for me?
Old 12-06-2005, 01:52 PM
  #70  
vision619
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Originally Posted by BlackSpec02
Vision619 - any insights for me?
Well the problem is I bought the fuel control upgrade from a vendor who uses them in his turbo kits and doesn't sell it seperately. I just happen to be in a (I know someone who know's someone) kinda deal. BUT, you can buy an FTC from Split second or a Split second vendor. You can also buy a larger fuel pump from allot of places. The only part you might have a hard time finding is the FMU. Meth/Water injection kit from Snow Performance - $299. Everything shouldn't exceed $600.

As far as the "Stage 3" problem. I was actually running an 8lb pulley I bought from Stillen and they also flashed the Split Second box that was in there (their original box) with a new fuel map. I went straight from their to a dyno down here in SD where I live and my car was detonating BADLY at 3,000rpm on a load based run. I've never heard of a regular stage 3 kit detonating. I guess me saying stage 3 was a little misleading.

Already sold my kit as it it bas a$$ now! 360rwhp/380lbs. It went quick. Sorry

I would recommend a stage 3 upgrade.

Last edited by vision619; 01-14-2006 at 02:58 PM.
Old 12-06-2005, 02:48 PM
  #71  
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Vision, thanks for your help man. i think you are right about what you said.

Do me a favor would you mind asking the shop you are affiliated with the same question and see what they say?

2nd question, how do i go about checking that wire. Do u have any idea where or what connections i can check?


Originally Posted by vision619
The Stillen control taps into the crankshaft positioning sensor. I would assume that it might be as simple as that particular wire just might have a bad connection. The crankshaft positioning sensor is the engines speed signal for the VDC which would be the reason your VDC light to sometimes comes on. Just have the particular wire checked for a solid connection.

Check that and let me know if it solves your problem.
Old 12-06-2005, 03:03 PM
  #72  
vision619
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Originally Posted by g35twinturbo
Vision, thanks for your help man. i think you are right about what you said.

Do me a favor would you mind asking the shop you are affiliated with the same question and see what they say?

2nd question, how do i go about checking that wire. Do u have any idea where or what connections i can check?
My mechanic just confirmed he's almost sure that's what it is. I know one thing, The location of that wire is UNDER your car so it'll need to be on the rack. The crankshaft position sensor is on the left bottom side of the connection between the transmission and the motor. The harness goes somewhere under the transmission and then up the right side to the back of the motor. It really depends on where your mechanic spliced in to that sensor line. I THINK the wires are white and blue out of the split second box and the cars crankshaft position sensor wire is white w/blue runner OR blue w/white runner.
Old 12-06-2005, 03:07 PM
  #73  
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Thanks alot! +1 for you sir!

When i asked stillen about this he said it wasnt possible since they "hard-wire this directly (i had it installed there)

Originally Posted by vision619
My mechanic just confirmed he's almost sure that's what it is. I know one thing, The location of that wire is UNDER your car so it'll need to be on the rack. The crankshaft position sensor is on the left bottom side of the connection between the transmission and the motor. The harness goes somewhere under the transmission and then up the right side to the back of the motor. It really depends on where your mechanic spliced in to that sensor line. I THINK the wires are white and blue out of the split second box and the cars crankshaft position sensor wire is white w/blue runner OR blue w/white runner.
Old 12-06-2005, 03:12 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by vision619
The Stillen control taps into the crankshaft positioning sensor. The crankshaft positioning sensor is the engines speed signal for the VDC which would be the reason your VDC light to sometimes comes on.

The crankshaft positioning sensor is NOT the engines speed signal. It is the main signal used for timing and fuel injection. Its much more of an RPM signal then a speed signal.

The VDC system does NOT use this signal at all. The VDC system uses individual wheel sensors that are in fact speed sensors. The vehile speedometer is actually based off of these wheel sensors.

If you are in fact having crank angle problems that would explain why you are getting violent jerks from the motor, as your timing is most likely all screwed up. If you have a piggy back installed it is possible that the crank angle sensor signal isn't making it to the piggy back reliably. If this is the case the piggyback could be messing with your MAF voltage, thus really screwing up the way the motor runs, and possibly, eventually blowing your motor. I would have it checked out ASAP.
Old 12-06-2005, 03:14 PM
  #75  
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Originally Posted by g35twinturbo
Thanks alot! +1 for you sir!

When i asked stillen about this he said it wasnt possible since they "hard-wire this directly (i had it installed there)
Funny. I have allot of Stillen stuff and like what Steve has done with the business but I wouldn't put any weight in anything they say.

Of coarse it's "hard wired". But there could be a loose connection, perhaps from vibration or maybe something shifted. Who knows, maybe a damn pebble popped up and got in there. Those guys are funny.

Did they soder it or use wire clamps?
Old 12-06-2005, 03:16 PM
  #76  
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I have no idea.... they stillen told me i could drive the car down there, but i dont know if i trust it....

Originally Posted by vision619
Funny. I have allot of Stillen stuff and like what Steve has done with the business but I wouldn't put any weight in anything they say.

Of coarse it's "hard wired". But there could be a loose connection, perhaps from vibration or maybe something shifted. Who knows, maybe a damn pebble popped up and got in there. Those guys are funny.

Did they soder it or use wire clamps?
Old 12-06-2005, 03:33 PM
  #77  
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Couple of things - people have been VERY successful on other vehicles with these eaton roots type blowers getting more HP and lower outlet temps through porting the case. Typical HP increase on a Lightning is 30hp. I don't see why the Stillen setup couldn't benefit from this process.....

So far in the Lightning community, the SNOW kit hasn't shown much success besides letting 91octane guys run some additional timing. I'm interested to see if it has better success on the Z's.

-Mark
Old 12-06-2005, 03:42 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by KPierson
The crankshaft positioning sensor is NOT the engines speed signal. It is the main signal used for timing and fuel injection. Its much more of an RPM signal then a speed signal.

The VDC system does NOT use this signal at all. The VDC system uses individual wheel sensors that are in fact speed sensors. The vehile speedometer is actually based off of these wheel sensors.
Fact:
The ECM, the combination meter, the VDC control unit or the TCS control unit (if it doesn't have VDC) and steering angle sensor; also on automatics, the TCM transmission control module are all CAN controlled. Thusly, anything that affects one, will affect the others. You will get a VDC light and a slip light if you have an engine signal problem IE: your crankshaft position signal. You are right in that engine speed has absolutely nothing to do with vehicle speed and the vehicle speed is derived from wheel sensors. The engine speed however is taken from the crankshaft positioning sensor.


Originally Posted by KPierson
If you are in fact having crank angle problems that would explain why you are getting violent jerks from the motor, as your timing is most likely all screwed up. If you have a piggy back installed it is possible that the crank angle sensor signal isn't making it to the piggy back reliably. If this is the case the piggyback could be messing with your MAF voltage, thus really screwing up the way the motor runs, and possibly, eventually blowing your motor. I would have it checked out ASAP.

This is all true and exactly what I said earlier in so many words; your signal is most likely being interrupted somewhere. Get it checked ASAP.
Old 12-06-2005, 04:15 PM
  #79  
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Thanks mike, i am sure i have found my problem!
Old 12-06-2005, 06:38 PM
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Originally Posted by vision619
Well the problem is I bought the fuel control upgrade from a vendor who uses them in his turbo kits and doesn't sell it seperately. I just happen to be in a (I know someone who know's someone) kinda deal. BUT, you can buy an FTC from Split second or a Split second vendor. You can also buy a larger fuel pump from allot of places. The only part you might have a hard time finding is the FMU. Meth/Water injection kit from Snow Performance - $299. Everything shouldn't exceed $600.

As far as the "Stage 3" problem. I was actually running an 8lb pulley I bought from Stillen and they also flashed the Split Second box that was in there (their original box) with a new fuel map. I went straight from their to a dyno down here in SD where I live and my car was detonating BADLY at 3,000rpm on a load based run. I've never heard of a regular stage 3 kit detonating. I guess me saying stage 3 was a little misleading.

Already sold my kit as it it bas a$$ now! 360rwhp/380lbs. It went quick. Sorry

I would recommend a stage 3 upgrade.

Thanks for the info, great looking engine bay. You will love the TT even more I'm sure, although its sad to see what was the most powerful stillen engine (AFAIK) go. Is the new owner on this board?

I would very much like to get the stage 3 set up, why wouldn't the gold pulley work on an 03?


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