aps tt upgraded actuators... what boost controller?
question for you guys with upgraded actuators.. what boost controller are you guys using? and also what actuators and what are they rated at?
ps. ... what emu too
thanks
ps. ... what emu too
thanks
I am using the Greddy Profect B Spec 2, it works fine. Forge Actuators, and Emanage Ultimate. I made 530 rwhp/475 Torque at 12.5 psi, and then my clutch started slipping so I had to stop. The tuning wasn't even done at that boost level, so I expect I could have gotten more power. My ECU is set to rev out to 7500, and I only went to 6800, so another 20-30 horsepower could be had with the extra RPM....
paranormal-
Greddy Profec B-Spec II, UniChip, and upgraded Garrett actuators that Torque Freaks found for me during my build. Right now, I'm boosting 14lbs and maxing out the APS injectors. New injectors go in Monday. I'll post when it's finished.
Greddy Profec B-Spec II, UniChip, and upgraded Garrett actuators that Torque Freaks found for me during my build. Right now, I'm boosting 14lbs and maxing out the APS injectors. New injectors go in Monday. I'll post when it's finished.
Last edited by RedLeader; Nov 11, 2005 at 12:04 PM.
Originally Posted by RedLeader
paranormal-
Greddy Profec B-Spec II, UniChip, and upgraded Garrett actuators that Torque Freaks found for me during my build. Right now, I'm boosting 14lbs and maxing out the APS injectors. New injectors go in Monday. I'll post when it's finished.
Greddy Profec B-Spec II, UniChip, and upgraded Garrett actuators that Torque Freaks found for me during my build. Right now, I'm boosting 14lbs and maxing out the APS injectors. New injectors go in Monday. I'll post when it's finished.
hi bruce , Rob gave me a ride in your beast while I was dropping of some mo parts for my install, at ~14psi, simply amazing how smooth and fast it spools. I guess the FMU A/F gets a little "wavy" at high rpm, so it's up to 650 RCs for ya
G3po-
Rob is going to be even MORE of an expert when he gets through with my project. It should save some time on future projects. Can I have a ride in yours when it's finished?
Bruce
Rob is going to be even MORE of an expert when he gets through with my project. It should save some time on future projects. Can I have a ride in yours when it's finished?
Bruce
Originally Posted by paranormal
hey whats the min boost setting on the garret actuators? cant wait to see your new results! 

On Redleader's Z , (8.5CR , TPs and Stillen TD) I seem to recall it was putting down around 7psi the way TQ freaks had them adjusted. After tightening them up the base is somewere around ~10psi. With a good boost controller (like the Greddy Profec) 20psi is then possible . So a tunable range of ~10-20psi
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With my upgraded actators the lowest boost I've managed is around 10psi. My installer hooked the wastegates directly to my plenum (I believe) to run the lowest (laggiest) boost possible until I can get it tuned.
On a side note, the car is absolutely no fun to drive anymore!
On a side note, the car is absolutely no fun to drive anymore!
paranormal, if you retain the Unichip, then you can't readily use another boost controller. Your tuner could disable the boost control function of the Unichip, but instead, most people are removing the Unichip completely, along with the boost control solenoid. Replacing it with EU or UTEC (when its ready to ship), and couple it with a Blitz SBC Id boost controller, or other quality dual solenoid high capacity boost controller.
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
paranormal, if you retain the Unichip, then you can't readily use another boost controller. Your tuner could disable the boost control function of the Unichip, but instead, most people are removing the Unichip completely, along with the boost control solenoid. Replacing it with EU or UTEC (when its ready to ship), and couple it with a Blitz SBC Id boost controller, or other quality dual solenoid high capacity boost controller.
Originally Posted by Nismo350ZRT
Sharif, can the Unichip control the boost with upgraded actuators? I plan on upgrading my actuators but retaining the Unichip.
paranormal-
They preset my actuators to establish a minimum. If you didn't preset them, I assume you could start out at zero boost, and use a BC to achieve higher boost.
Sharif-
Rob wasn't happy with the control he was getting with the UniChip, so he installed the Greddy and says it's quick and solid up to the point where he runs out of fuel. I'll know more after the bigger injectors are in and he turns up the boost.
Bruce
They preset my actuators to establish a minimum. If you didn't preset them, I assume you could start out at zero boost, and use a BC to achieve higher boost.
Sharif-
Rob wasn't happy with the control he was getting with the UniChip, so he installed the Greddy and says it's quick and solid up to the point where he runs out of fuel. I'll know more after the bigger injectors are in and he turns up the boost.
Bruce
Originally Posted by RedLeader
Sharif-
Rob wasn't happy with the control he was getting with the UniChip, so he installed the Greddy and says it's quick and solid up to the point where he runs out of fuel. I'll know more after the bigger injectors are in and he turns up the boost.
Bruce
Rob wasn't happy with the control he was getting with the UniChip, so he installed the Greddy and says it's quick and solid up to the point where he runs out of fuel. I'll know more after the bigger injectors are in and he turns up the boost.
Bruce
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
paranormal, if you retain the Unichip, then you can't readily use another boost controller. Your tuner could disable the boost control function of the Unichip, but instead, most people are removing the Unichip completely, along with the boost control solenoid. Replacing it with EU or UTEC (when its ready to ship), and couple it with a Blitz SBC Id boost controller, or other quality dual solenoid high capacity boost controller.
I looked at the Blitz but wanted something compact without the big screen. If I had an Evo and was running really high boost, I might have gone with the dual-solenoid setup. The Greddy was what Rob @Z-Car Garage advised, so I gave in to the voice of experience. It's comparitively inexpensive, doesn't have a lot of whistles and bells, and works.
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