He is so right. I don't care what anyone says when they first get FI. You will want more, and it will feel like it is just not that fast anymore.

 

Yea I agree Boost is like Drug.... You'll end up wanting more, and more!

 

These advises should really be good for your buisness...
Come on, do crack dealers warn their buyers about potential addiction?

 

Oleg,

He knows the NEED to boost overcomes all else. The only reason I stopped trying to make more power is because I'm broke. Yet I still window shop...

 

Not really...No one EVER listens to professional advice..EVER..Trust me..You can tell 90% of people not to do something cause it is garbage and does not make power and they will want it anyway..I try and be as honest as possible to my customers, they thank me for it and I save them money and earn their respect..i got a kid who has spent thousands on his WRX cause he read things on the internet and his buddies told him things would work..I could have made him mor power than he has now for under $2000 where he has spent about $6000 listening to other people and shady shops...Im more about earning permanent customers than a quick bang...We know our stuff, we know what works and we know when someone will be back for more....Trust me, a month after your Vortech install, youll me back for more

 

LouZer,

Can you post some of your Vortech quieting techniques? I assume that swapping out the Vortech Bypass valve for something like a Gredy Type-s (or similar) with do wonders. Not having the bypass always open under vacuum would really quiet things down.

BUT,.......what about reducing the "walnut crusher" sound.

Thanks,

Andrew

 

I wouldn't swap out the Vortech bypass valve. Others have tried it with bad results. Fabricating your own silencer out of a radiator hose with sound deadening material is another story.

BTW - a filter over the bypass valve by itself doesn't work as good.

As for the "walnut crusher" sound. Raise your idle rpm's. You'll notice that when you cold start your car and the rpms are up a little bit, that sound isn't there. Although it doesn't need to be raised that high, just 100-200 rpms and there should be no more grinding walnuts.

Hope this helps.

-Lou

 

I was thinking about going the N/A route, but I figured, after I have 90% of the bolt-ons, I would be around 85% of the total price of a ST or SC kit and tuning. Yesterday, I have actually heard a Vortech'd Z idling at a stop light, and unfortunatley, its pretty noticeable....

 

Where in NJ you from!! Holla atcha boy...lol

 

I'm from Rahway, "Where you at, where you at!!??

 

Another scenario:
The GT-R comes out and it is the craziest thing to hit the streets. Unfortunately I cannot afford one b/c I have sank a fortune into the Z and will have to spend another fortune in labor and replacement OEM parts to bring it back to stock so I could sell it or trade it in for a GT-R...
Yet another reason to go with Vortech.

 

lol you keep going back and forth between the TN kit and vortech

 

You mean like plugging your oil pan that you had to drill out? Or soldering the ECM wires you had to cut to put the SS box in?? O rthe engine cover you had to cut??

 

yeah but the stock oil pan is cheap to replace and I'm sure there's people online who'll sell them for almost nothing - not a bad idea to buy an APS oil pan anyway and an oil cooler since the vortech is going to be sharing that oil

The SS box is ok and works, but there's better solutions out there that are plug and play with no soldering

you can just take off the engine cover

 

I was never panning to use stock oil pan. You can either use the APS one or get a spacer and drill through it. I never planned to add the SS box either. For electronics/fuel I am looking at the AAM fuel return/UTEC/RC injectors (as you have advised earlier). I will be able to sell them online for at least half of what I'll pay for them new in case I'd want to part out and go with the GT-R. And if the GT-R doesn't impress me enough, and the blower gets too boring, then I can always pull it out and replace it with the APS tuner or the SFR kit. All the parts on my list are compatible with either one. The only 2 things that I may have to get rid of (besides the blower itself) would be the headers and the 6MT final drive gear.
I had a ride with a member named LiNkS on his Vortech'd Z. I had certain expectations from the Z with FI and that experience hit the nail right on the head. As I said in a previous post, if this upgrade makes no power then I don't need "power". And it also happens to be least expensive. As for everyone else, if you live somewhere in Arizona or Nevada and you have these ultrastraigh highways where you can drive for hours and not see a sigle car, not to mention that you see everything in 3 mile radius (cops too), then yes, nothing but a TT would do, and if I lived there I'd get the best TT probably with a custom 3.00 rear gear. But I don't live there.
Now, MRC, I have a lot of respect for you guys as car builders. When I start the build I would trust noone else in a 200 mile range to have it done for me. As you know, YOU are the experts in this and not me. But the last thing I want is to have my car hacked up by all the crap the full Vortech kit comes with and be given the "see, I told you so, you should have gone with what I was suggesting" runaround by the installer. Blower itself is the only solid piece in that set. It is the piece around which I would like to build the rest of the upgrades. I need an expert who would help me achieve maximum power and safety with that unit, which is possible, as some other members have demonstrated. But if the Vortech is too "inferior" and not "elite" enough for you, so by all means, just say so, I'll take a 200 mile detour to Maryland.

 

BTW which oil pan we on about here? Does APS do a replacement for upper as well as lower?

Think you have to drill through the upper pan and cannot use a spacer with Vortech since drain needs to be well above 'tide level' so to speak.

 

Actually countless Turbonetics guys have drilled their return line through the oil pan spacer without any issues.

 

And do TN not recommend that then (as neither do Vortech) - missing your point

 

Actually Turbonetics hasn't recommended anything other then their instructions. I'm merely saying that tapping a pan spacer works and has worked for tons of people.