Oil pan on ebay
I was going to buy a spacer for my Greddy car. I was searcing ebay and found this. Has anyone used this? Looks like a hell of a deal! Why would anyone buy a spacer!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWA%3AIT
i personally prefer the JWT spacer over a oil pan like that.
The JWT spacer deepens the sump but keeps it with the same width/length so the oil has less space to get away from the pickup. I think that that those side kick-outs on the pan your looking at allow a super easy place for an entire half a quart of oil to get completely away from the pickup. As for the air cooling fins, I highly doubt that makes any difference at all anyway, especially if you have an oil cooler.
The JWT spacer deepens the sump but keeps it with the same width/length so the oil has less space to get away from the pickup. I think that that those side kick-outs on the pan your looking at allow a super easy place for an entire half a quart of oil to get completely away from the pickup. As for the air cooling fins, I highly doubt that makes any difference at all anyway, especially if you have an oil cooler.
Really? To me it looks just like my APS pan on my APS car. I dunno I bought it so Ill check it out when I get it. If I dont liek it Im sure I can sell it for what I paid.
I ordered one and it came in earlier last week. its a cast replica of the PE oil pan. it holds and extra 1.5 qt. The 2 return ports for the oil are great. the block off's are 5/16" thick so you can tap it for feed lines. It fits the gasket there for will fit the car (sealing wise).
I bought it because I had originaly ordered the Greddy TT kit with the tap, but when the TT cam in it had a Greddy oil pan with threads already there so I sold it to a guy here on island for cost.
Just clean it out well, there is some fine grit powder still left from casting.
I bought it because I had originaly ordered the Greddy TT kit with the tap, but when the TT cam in it had a Greddy oil pan with threads already there so I sold it to a guy here on island for cost.
Just clean it out well, there is some fine grit powder still left from casting.
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It looks like an APS oil pan on the outside, but my APS had more "walls" inside; "baffles" APS calls it.

If you don't have an opil cooler, it will help cool the oil. My pan is huge and fins on the bottom have a huge surface
Danny
and with additional baffles in the oil pan, oil surge under track/race conditions is reduced significantly

If you don't have an opil cooler, it will help cool the oil. My pan is huge and fins on the bottom have a huge surface
Danny
The casting quality looks really bad...or is it just the way the flash is hitting it? This would be interesting to combine with a spacer.
Originally Posted by punish_her
I ordered one and it came in earlier last week. its a cast replica of the PE oil pan. it holds and extra 1.5 qt. The 2 return ports for the oil are great. the block off's are 5/16" thick so you can tap it for feed lines. It fits the gasket there for will fit the car (sealing wise).
I bought it because I had originaly ordered the Greddy TT kit with the tap, but when the TT cam in it had a Greddy oil pan with threads already there so I sold it to a guy here on island for cost.
Just clean it out well, there is some fine grit powder still left from casting.
I bought it because I had originaly ordered the Greddy TT kit with the tap, but when the TT cam in it had a Greddy oil pan with threads already there so I sold it to a guy here on island for cost.
Just clean it out well, there is some fine grit powder still left from casting.
Originally Posted by punish_her
I ordered one and it came in earlier last week. its a cast replica of the PE oil pan. it holds and extra 1.5 qt. The 2 return ports for the oil are great. the block off's are 5/16" thick so you can tap it for feed lines. It fits the gasket there for will fit the car (sealing wise).
I bought it because I had originaly ordered the Greddy TT kit with the tap, but when the TT cam in it had a Greddy oil pan with threads already there so I sold it to a guy here on island for cost.
Just clean it out well, there is some fine grit powder still left from casting.
I bought it because I had originaly ordered the Greddy TT kit with the tap, but when the TT cam in it had a Greddy oil pan with threads already there so I sold it to a guy here on island for cost.
Just clean it out well, there is some fine grit powder still left from casting.
Yes that will work, but a sand casting knock off - they don't even try to plane the surfaces to level. I guess we are in the wrong business

Cheers Amy
-
Originally Posted by 350Zteve
The casting quality looks really bad...or is it just the way the flash is hitting it? This would be interesting to combine with a spacer. 
The quality is ok. The only place where you see some defects is the internal baffels. you can some defects is the internal baffels. you can see a few bubbles there but that doesnt matter much. It just keeps the oil from sloshing arround. All the heat sinks are good and the fit seams to me right. the connecting surfaces seemed to be plained down on this one. you could see realy fine sanding marks to make it level. realy fine sanding marks to make it level. Infact I put a level on it to see and horizantal/ fertical and both cross axis where level. so in my mind that was kosher.
For less than half the price one thats decent quality is great. The main stream ones are over priced any ways.
EDIT: sorry post tence. Im drunk in Tokoyo waiting on a flight so Iwont even bother to spell check or grammer check.
Last edited by punish_her; Jan 30, 2006 at 11:09 PM.
Originally Posted by dscheers
It looks like an APS oil pan on the outside, but my APS had more "walls" inside; "baffles" APS calls it.

If you don't have an opil cooler, it will help cool the oil. My pan is huge and fins on the bottom have a huge surface
Danny

If you don't have an opil cooler, it will help cool the oil. My pan is huge and fins on the bottom have a huge surface
Danny
Thats real nice and all but where are the threads to secure the block off plate so you can tap in your oil returns?
Still think you get more bang for your buck adding an aftermarket oil cooler. You get the cooling you are looking for plus it adds more oil to your system. Thus, you get what the oil pan will give you, plus cooling!
Originally Posted by MoodDude
Still think you get more bang for your buck adding an aftermarket oil cooler. You get the cooling you are looking for plus it adds more oil to your system. Thus, you get what the oil pan will give you, plus cooling!
Danny
Most people go for this sump, not for its cooling ability, but more for the added oil capacity (good engine insurance). Also the added bonus that the sump doesn't sit any closer to the ground as the stock on, as the added capacity goes into the sides, whereas when you stick a spacer in there, you sump now sits and extra inch closer to the ground, and when you lower your another inch and a half, you sump starts to get quite close to the ground, and the last thing you want to do is rip a hole in the sump whil your doing 5-6000 rpm. (boom
)
)
even with the JWT spacer and your car slammed, you will be above the crossmember and not rip off the pan. I prefer the JWT method because it increasing the sump capacity and most important increases the depth of the sump assuring you that oil will not leave the pickup.
Originally Posted by dscheers
Most of the oiler coolers are more expensive as far as I could find out. Also, personally I was a bit afraid that an oil cooler,due to its location and structure, might easily get damaged. I don't see that happen with the thick shell of the pan. (And the fins give extra protection.)
Danny
Danny
Originally Posted by ReV2Red
Most people go for this sump, not for its cooling ability, but more for the added oil capacity (good engine insurance). Also the added bonus that the sump doesn't sit any closer to the ground as the stock on, as the added capacity goes into the sides, whereas when you stick a spacer in there, you sump now sits and extra inch closer to the ground, and when you lower your another inch and a half, you sump starts to get quite close to the ground, and the last thing you want to do is rip a hole in the sump whil your doing 5-6000 rpm. (boom
)
)
By insurance, i mean its good to have that little bit extra oil. I knoe the temps, and pressures and all that crap wont change, just good to have more than enough oil in the sump to ensure there is no shortage, thats all.
Originally Posted by phunk
even with the JWT spacer and your car slammed, you will be above the crossmember and not rip off the pan. I prefer the JWT method because it increasing the sump capacity and most important increases the depth of the sump assuring you that oil will not leave the pickup.
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