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Got the car back, finally! But a couple problems....

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Old 02-04-2006, 06:26 PM
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failsafe306
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Default Got the car back, finally! But a couple problems....

After about 8 months of waiting, I finally went and picked up my car yesterday. Tuan was having problems with the fuel and throttle cutting out at higher psi. I was told it was because the Unichip can't drive the injectors directly and can't deliver the amount of fuel needed for high psi. So, my whp numbers aren't quite what was expected.....a little over 500 rwhp and rwtq. Soon, I'm going to ditch the Unichip for either the UTEC or the new HKS unit coming out and then I should be much closer to where I want to be....around 550rwhp or so.

Now for the problems....

1. The idle is set to 1000 rpms because of my cams. When I picked the car up, the idle was just a hair rough, but didn't really think much of it. Now, it'll idle perfectly at 1000 for a few seconds, then dip down to about 750 or even as low as 500, quite often.

2. On the way back into town, after driving a few hundred miles, I gave it some throttle in 4th gear, went to about 6k rpms, let off, and it just died. Started right back up though. Ran just fine after that. Then, a few hundred miles later, it did the same thing; I boosted it up, let off, and it died. Well, since I've been back in town, it's doing it more frequently.

Does it sound like I'm running way too rich, or what? between 3-5000 rpms or so, I'm off the charts rich; sub 11's. I'm not really sure of the reasoning behind that. I don't believe there are any vac line leaks, because the boost gauge sits perfectly around -20 at idle. One thing I did notice, is the BOV is only fluttering after high boost sometimes, instead of venting to atmosphere. Any ideas from the experts?

Last edited by failsafe306; 02-04-2006 at 06:29 PM.
Old 02-04-2006, 06:34 PM
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BoOsTedz33TT
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Sounds like you should have let GRD drive it around for a few weeks, not trying to be funny. When Ellias1 (lives in NY) car was done by JOTECH, kenny tuned it to 667hp, but didnt give it back to him, He drove it around for a few weeks (maybe he just liked driving it), but he made sure it didnt die, or go poop on him. Would suck to go to texas then back to NY for your car to go poo. EDIT i was gonna say idle, but you said when driving it goes poo...wow that sucks, maybe a electrical problem

Last edited by BoOsTedz33TT; 02-04-2006 at 06:59 PM.
Old 02-04-2006, 06:52 PM
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Gman2004
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Damn Chris! Hell of I know what's wrong with you whip, but chit I feel for u bro. I understand what you are going through. I hope it gets figured out soon so you can enjoy that beast. Good luck!
Old 02-04-2006, 07:01 PM
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failsafe306
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Originally Posted by Gman2004
Damn Chris! Hell of I know what's wrong with you whip, but chit I feel for u bro. I understand what you are going through. I hope it gets figured out soon so you can enjoy that beast. Good luck!
Thanks! It's really not that bad, it only does it once in a while. But it is getting more frequent. Other than that and the rough idle, it's a pretty mean *** car!
Old 02-04-2006, 07:48 PM
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What size injectors do you have? I had the Nissan dealer use the Consult to force a better idle value in to my ECU. After my APS and Unichip install the car wouldn't auto learn the idle because too many perameters were out of spec. After paying the dealership $90 I haven't had any problems.
Old 02-04-2006, 09:22 PM
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chris just have the delearship raise your idle. i did, my car idles perfect
Old 02-04-2006, 11:04 PM
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phunk
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what is your vacuum at idle?

This is most likely a combination of your ATS Triple disk, cams, and big *** injectors. The Unichip is having to wack out your MAF signal which isnt helping.

You said that "The idle is set to 1000 rpms because of my cams." Did you already have Nissan raise it to 950 with the Consult, or was this done another way, or does it just tend to idle there right now even tho you didnt do anything?

Is it possible that there is a vacuum leak? Was your intake manifold flange ground down to accomodate your AAM Fuel rails, hardware, with taller RC injectors and spacers? No one had done that on Pauls cars before it came to me for the build, and his was leaking there because the intake manifold can be difficult to seal with the fuel rail bolts not allowing it to totaly seat. I know that sounds random, I am just trying to figure out why your car is idling so high if you didnt have Nissan raise it yet.

Last edited by phunk; 02-04-2006 at 11:07 PM.
Old 02-04-2006, 11:34 PM
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Originally Posted by phunk
what is your vacuum at idle?

This is most likely a combination of your ATS Triple disk, cams, and big *** injectors. The Unichip is having to wack out your MAF signal which isnt helping.

You said that "The idle is set to 1000 rpms because of my cams." Did you already have Nissan raise it to 950 with the Consult, or was this done another way, or does it just tend to idle there right now even tho you didnt do anything?

Is it possible that there is a vacuum leak? Was your intake manifold flange ground down to accomodate your AAM Fuel rails, hardware, with taller RC injectors and spacers? No one had done that on Pauls cars before it came to me for the build, and his was leaking there because the intake manifold can be difficult to seal with the fuel rail bolts not allowing it to totaly seat. I know that sounds random, I am just trying to figure out why your car is idling so high if you didnt have Nissan raise it yet.
My idle was set via TS reflash. I don't believe there are any vacuum leaks; my boost gauge shows -20 at idle, rock solid.
Old 02-05-2006, 09:30 AM
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failsafe306
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Anyone else have a take?
Old 02-05-2006, 10:23 AM
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Look into this thread for answers. Helps vacuum alot.

https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....74#post1946174
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