Hey all, I'm new to the 350Z family and I'm hungry for more power! I'm looking into the future, and I'm hoping by the end of the day I can coax about 450 or 475 hp out of my new baby. I'm looking into the APS forced induction system and notice they also provide test pipes, plenum and a new exaust system. How are these compared to other models? I'm figuring that since it seems by popular opinion that APS is the most reliable twin turbo setup that I should go with there compatable (?) parts as well. Does this amake sense or should I mix and match different part manufactures? Thanks.

 

I don't know. Sounds like a fi question to me.

 

Every new 350Z owner is going forced induction. Every one.

That said, since you are asking this wide ranging question, are you certain that forced induction is a smart step for your first mod?

 

What davidv is trying to tell you (I think) that there are things needing to be done before the FI. What year/trim do you have? And what tranny, stick or auto?

 

Not necessarily. The APS TT/ST kits are very complete out of the box, and can be installed on a totally stock car and still be very effective. I would suggest going with at least a new exhaust in the process, and a new clutch/flywheel if possible. From what I've seen the APS exhaust system/test pipes/plenum look to be high quality pieces.

 

I did not mean that anything is needed to complete the APS set. But with all the new found power, unless you have a track package with OEM Brembos, the brakes should be addressed. And there is always the tranny. Clutch/flywheel on the 6MT or a valve body on 5AT. That I think is a must. I would also add some gauges (AFR, boost, oil temp...) and a tranny cooler if he has a 5AT.

 

The APS TT setup is complete, and I would recommend going with their test pipes and exhaust if you do choose to go with their setup. In terms of out of box setups, no kit out there includes what the APS does.

If you want to chat about the APS setups, please PM me or send me an IM via AOL IM or Yahoo IM - Azivman3 on either

 

I own a 35th anv. 6 speed coupe, OEM Brembos and Navi. So before I go with the APS kit and exaust, I should install the light weight flywheel and what else?

 

you don't need a light weight flywheel, though you will want to get a stronger clutch, which may also include a lightweight flywheel

If you are going APS TT:

APS TT kit
APS exhaust
APS Test pipes
Install
Tune
Clutch - many choices, JWT, RPS, ATS, Spec - clutches like the ATS will be a full clutch and flywheel combo

optional, but recommend:
Boost gauge
wideband AFR

you can get other things like:
Koyo radiator
plenum
oil cooler
cams
etc

it's all about how much you are willing to spend.

 

You may also want to budget for a set of stickier tyres, especially if your car came with the Impotenzas...
I don't believe that radiator or oil cooler are needed unless you autocross a lot. THe stock rediator is very large and the ribbed oil pan does a decent job dissapating the heat.
As far as the cams go, it is a good idea as a part of the built motor package. And I would not even bother with them unless you have an access to a Unichip tuner. Without a re-tune the gains from cams will not be near enough to justify the cost of the parts/install...

 

Would the new cams help hold the engine together incase of blowout? Or is that a whole new can of worms? And yes, there is a budget for a new set of 19 inch rims and I'm working on how wide it can go as we speak. But thats for another day.

 

The cams will help the motor breathe better and result in more power up top.

 

I am running 245/45/18 on front and 275/40/18 rear.... But I haven't gone FI yet, so I don't know if that's enough. I've seen people stuffing 295s and even 315s into the rear well, but personnally I wouldn't stagger the tyres by more then 30mm... The reason that Porsches and NSX's get away with it is that they both have their motors in the back. You have an almost 50/50 weight distribution, so...

Oh, after reading the posts on the furums I was also under an impression that anything below 500whp is boring. Then I got a ride in a 400whp Z and got out of the car pale a ghost with my knees shaking. I am planning to just have the kit bosted on, leave the boost at about 8 PSI (good for at least 400WHP and uber-safe for the engine), then find out how much more do I need for complete happiness and then look at opening up the block... But that's just me, I do like to play as safe as possible.

 

Yes, 400whp is more than enough for the average person. Even at that level you will have a hard time putting it to the ground effectively. Best to work on traction and suspension before you push it any farther.

 

I'd say, stay at 400 whp and use the build engine funds for suspension upgrades and RACING SCHOOL LESSONS. Someone that can take full advantage of a 400 whp car can beat up any average driver with 600 whp car.
And Laser, the only place where you can really open her up would be LIE (swarming with cops most of time) and the Meadowbrook PKWY by Jones Beach Arena. I don't believe you really need more then 400 whp on Long Island...

 

135 is still a prett chill road. But yes, playing it safe is part of the game. I'm just looking for the way to beat on vettes. I've looked into headers, exaust systems, and air intakes, but I then look at the damage to the wallet and horse power output and feel that I could get more for my money. Especially if I do go with the FI after a year or so and then have to take off all those parts.

 

Think of it this way, 400hp at the wheels is 500 hp at the crank (about 20% for drivetrain losses...). That is as much as the new Z06 or the Dodge Viper...

 

I'm thinking of doing the APS package also. I do want the HKS exhaust though. I'm still deciding on clutch/flywheel brand. Rims and tires are another debate. But I would definitely get everything in the APS package. That way you save yourself in compatability department. I don't think exhaust will make much of a compatability issue though unless someone wants to prove me wrong with good reasons.