TURBONECTICS KIT blows my vq@8psI
03-09-2006, 07:24 AM
#81
Originally Posted by aceman
Ok, im alittle confused with the temp and tuning.
So if i get a turbo kit installed in the summer months and get it tuned at say 80 degrees, im going to be in trouble when the winter months hit and it gets down to 20 degrees and visa versa??
Do i need 2 different maps to run? One for summer and one for winter??
Just me being dumb maybe, still trying to learn as much as i can before going FI
Thanks
Aceman
So if i get a turbo kit installed in the summer months and get it tuned at say 80 degrees, im going to be in trouble when the winter months hit and it gets down to 20 degrees and visa versa??
Do i need 2 different maps to run? One for summer and one for winter??
Just me being dumb maybe, still trying to learn as much as i can before going FI
Thanks
Aceman
03-09-2006, 07:29 AM
#82
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Don't forget that a MAF tune like the Turbonetics meters air much more precisely than a MAP tune unless it is a 3 axis setup with AIT on the third axis but no ECU for the 350z has the capability right now. MAF actually accounts for air density changes because it meters the actual air unlike MAP. A Map tuned car is going to be much further away from it's tune with a 50 degree change than would a MAF tuned car.
Originally Posted by Alberto
Colder air is denser. If for example you tune in 30 degree temps, to 11:1 A/F, thats fine. Now drive that tune on a 90 degree day, and you'll be running richer-in the 10.X A/F's. How much Im not sure .5 point maybe more, but you will be richer, and vice versa if you tune in hot climate and drive it in colder climate. UTEC has the ability to temperature compensate, but as of right now its kinda finicky...
03-09-2006, 07:51 AM
#84
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Originally Posted by team1320350z
what kit is better greedy tt ot turbonetics or singleturbo? and how much can i get one for?
for another, have you looked around at all? searched?
try that first.
03-09-2006, 08:15 AM
#85
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Best turbo kit thread #90091240934859875. 
Originally Posted by team1320350z
what kit is better greedy tt ot turbonetics or singleturbo? and how much can i get one for?
03-09-2006, 08:27 AM
#86
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Originally Posted by team1320350z
what kit is better greedy tt ot turbonetics or singleturbo? and how much can i get one for?
03-09-2006, 09:05 AM
#87
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Originally Posted by team1320350z
what kit is better greedy tt ot turbonetics or singleturbo? and how much can i get one for?
http://www.turbonator.com/
You'll be able to hand all those F/I guys their asses with it.
03-09-2006, 09:25 AM
#88
Originally Posted by bboypuertoroc
Don't listen to them man... screw the GReddy and Turbonetics kits. To hell with all those lame-*** supercharger kits. This is what you need to get...
http://www.turbonator.com/
You'll be able to hand all those F/I guys their asses with it.
http://www.turbonator.com/
You'll be able to hand all those F/I guys their asses with it.
team1320350z: Your question is a logical one for someone just starting to research options for the Z. Given that many of the Forced-induction products out there have been around for awhile, there is LOTS of good information on them here on the forum already. If your question was a serious one, then start researching past posts and 99% of your questions will get answered.
Welcome to the forums!
03-09-2006, 04:07 PM
#89
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I am not reading 5 pages of this, so this may be a respost ... but since he has no boast gauge, and an nismo exhaust(which some reported over boasting 12.5 ) dont you think he prolly just over boasted the motor and either leaned out a piston and melted it ?
03-09-2006, 04:55 PM
#90
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Originally Posted by siksilver350z
I am not reading 5 pages of this, so this may be a respost ... but since he has no boast gauge, and an nismo exhaust(which some reported over boasting 12.5 ) dont you think he prolly just over boasted the motor and either leaned out a piston and melted it ?
Last edited by RB26DETT-Z33; 03-09-2006 at 04:59 PM.
03-09-2006, 05:34 PM
#94
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Good call. I stand corrected. These motors in no way like it rich say 11.4 or richer especially above 4000rpm's to redline. This couldn't have been his problem.
Originally Posted by taurran
Nah, 11.99 is fine. Once you hit 12.0 you need to start worrying.
03-09-2006, 05:44 PM
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Originally Posted by theking
Good call. I stand corrected. These motors in no way like it rich say 11.4 or richer especially above 4000rpm's to redline. This couldn't have been his problem.
03-09-2006, 05:58 PM
#97
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Originally Posted by Gman2004
Actually this is on topic. Zivman posted about how a tuned EMS is a better solution that a reflash and I posted that a tuned EMS did nothing in my case cause of the weather change.
My car was tuned in 90+ degree ambient temps, and I've driven it all the way down to ~10 degrees. A/F at WOT at 90+ degrees was 10.9-11.1. A/F when it was 10 degrees out was 11.3-11.5...still WELL within safe limits and the car drove perfectly in those and all conditions in between. I fail to see the issue with temps here unless my car was tuned on the ragged edge in the 90 degree temps and then the cooler temps took it over the line of safety.
There's one main reason why a tuneable piggyback EMS like the Unichip, EU or UTEC is better than a reflash. Since the Z doesn't come with boost from the factory the stock ecu has no boost reference. There are other underlying reasons, like ease of tuning, and reaction to changing weather conditions (although the ECU will react to temp/humidity changes, it acts in a way that benefits an N/A vehicle..NOT a boosted vehicle and this could pose problems) but honestly I don't understand how people can sit here and say that a re-flash is as good as an EMS, when it's clearly not as flexible and doesn't have a boost reference.
03-09-2006, 06:04 PM
#98
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Originally Posted by RB26DETT-Z33
I DON'T KNOW WHO'S GIVING YOU YOUR INFO I HAD A BOOST GAUGE HOOKED UP SINCE DAY 2 and my car was dynoed 6 separate times my AFR ON PUMP GAS WAS 11.99 AND THE DYNO READ 8.00 PSI OF BOOST. A PISTON WASNT LEANED OUT A COUPLE OF RODS WENT DOWN SOUTH!
So some japanese guy put your car up on his lift, took a couple looks at the motor through some holes in the block and proclaimed that it was ABSOLUTELY, DEFINITELY, rod failure. Am I reading that correctly??
The truth is you really have no idea what caused your motor to fail, and you probably won't get much more of an idea from a teardown since typically with these types of failure, the evidence of "what went first" is hard to decephyr. Could have been tuning, could have been oil starvation...who knows...
You can go around all day saying that you "HAVE" to build your motor to have a reliably boosted Z, but myself and well over 90% of the stock motor boosted Z community will soundly disagree with you, and we have a lot more evidience to back our side up than you do.
03-09-2006, 06:52 PM
#99
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Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
My car was tuned in 90+ degree ambient temps, and I've driven it all the way down to ~10 degrees. A/F at WOT at 90+ degrees was 10.9-11.1. A/F when it was 10 degrees out was 11.3-11.5...still WELL within safe limits and the car drove perfectly in those and all conditions in between. I fail to see the issue with temps here unless my car was tuned on the ragged edge in the 90 degree temps and then the cooler temps took it over the line of safety.
There's one main reason why a tuneable piggyback EMS like the Unichip, EU or UTEC is better than a reflash. Since the Z doesn't come with boost from the factory the stock ecu has no boost reference. There are other underlying reasons, like ease of tuning, and reaction to changing weather conditions (although the ECU will react to temp/humidity changes, it acts in a way that benefits an N/A vehicle..NOT a boosted vehicle and this could pose problems) but honestly I don't understand how people can sit here and say that a re-flash is as good as an EMS, when it's clearly not as flexible and doesn't have a boost reference.
There's one main reason why a tuneable piggyback EMS like the Unichip, EU or UTEC is better than a reflash. Since the Z doesn't come with boost from the factory the stock ecu has no boost reference. There are other underlying reasons, like ease of tuning, and reaction to changing weather conditions (although the ECU will react to temp/humidity changes, it acts in a way that benefits an N/A vehicle..NOT a boosted vehicle and this could pose problems) but honestly I don't understand how people can sit here and say that a re-flash is as good as an EMS, when it's clearly not as flexible and doesn't have a boost reference.
03-09-2006, 06:53 PM
#100
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Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
So some japanese guy put your car up on his lift, took a couple looks at the motor through some holes in the block and proclaimed that it was ABSOLUTELY, DEFINITELY, rod failure. Am I reading that correctly??
The truth is you really have no idea what caused your motor to fail, and you probably won't get much more of an idea from a teardown since typically with these types of failure, the evidence of "what went first" is hard to decephyr. Could have been tuning, could have been oil starvation...who knows...
You can go around all day saying that you "HAVE" to build your motor to have a reliably boosted Z, but myself and well over 90% of the stock motor boosted Z community will soundly disagree with you, and we have a lot more evidience to back our side up than you do.
The truth is you really have no idea what caused your motor to fail, and you probably won't get much more of an idea from a teardown since typically with these types of failure, the evidence of "what went first" is hard to decephyr. Could have been tuning, could have been oil starvation...who knows...
You can go around all day saying that you "HAVE" to build your motor to have a reliably boosted Z, but myself and well over 90% of the stock motor boosted Z community will soundly disagree with you, and we have a lot more evidience to back our side up than you do.