Headlift -- sleeved and non-sleeved engines
05-09-2006, 01:39 PM
#141
Originally Posted by Gman2004
I didn't see headlift on the dyno. It took repeated high boost freeway runs for me to see it and it didn't take a year for it to surface like others have reported. My motor was weeks old.
05-09-2006, 02:08 PM
#142
Originally Posted by booger
My motor is 500 miles old and I have the problem . It started on the dyno , when doing a power curve run . The extra load put on the motor [ Mustang dyno ] when doing the power curve , I think is what started it .
05-09-2006, 02:56 PM
#143
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Originally Posted by failsafe306
How do you know it's headlift and not a cooling system problem? Are you showing signs of coolant in your oil or deposits in your coolant?
05-09-2006, 05:39 PM
#144
Originally Posted by failsafe306
How do you know it's headlift and not a cooling system problem? Are you showing signs of coolant in your oil or deposits in your coolant?
05-09-2006, 11:30 PM
#145
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Originally Posted by 350zDCalb
Because they aren't telling the whole story
At these power levels, without sleeving the block and using larger studs-BOTH..you will have problems
At these power levels, without sleeving the block and using larger studs-BOTH..you will have problemsTravis
05-09-2006, 11:31 PM
#146
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Also... you guys with carbon deposits in the coolant system.. are you using stock head gasket's? The sealant that Nissan uses on thier gaskets, isn't the best in the world.. the gaskets suck, honestly..
05-10-2006, 01:55 AM
#147
true, it isn't carbon deposits, it is part of the stock head gasket breaking off. the stock head gaskets have dimpled rings around the cyliders, which makes it easy for the coating they put on to break off in the bending process when the gasket mates. the coating loosens during this. thus making it easy to break off later when you get a combustion leak.
bottom line, if you get black specks in your over flow, you have a problem!! they come from somewhere.
bottom line, if you get black specks in your over flow, you have a problem!! they come from somewhere.
05-10-2006, 05:40 AM
#148
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That's what alot of us are running. I am. It's called a radiator breather tank or radiator purge tank, take your pick. It definitely helps but guys like Gman2004 are running those and still having the problems.
Originally Posted by Trav4011
I am good friends with Clark @ JWT... I trust what he tells me. The car was road raced at the 550whp level.. and never had a single problem. It was driven hard on the freeway, and flogged on the dyno.. Clark thinks that it has more to do with localized boiling in the cylinder head, creating steam pockets.. which displace the coolant into the overflow tank. He's talked with a few of the JGTC guys.. they have done all sorts of elaborate burp tank setups, and running much higher coolant system pressure.
Travis
Travis
05-10-2006, 05:45 AM
#150
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Originally Posted by theking
It definitely helps but guys like Gman2004 are running those and still having the problems.
05-10-2006, 07:23 AM
#151
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Originally Posted by theking
That's what alot of us are running. I am. It's called a radiator breather tank or radiator purge tank, take your pick. It definitely helps but guys like Gman2004 are running those and still having the problems.
8.) How can we prevent pressurizing the cooling system on a F/I'd vq35???
um...larger head studs..why don't we test this and see that it solves the problem before we overthink this and develop "fixes" that we don't need
OH NO!!!!!! we're doooooooooomed
...come on guys, these are the same exact problems encountered on many other motors that have been pushed...for example, the sti motors were having the same problems, they swapped out the head studs for larger diameter, torqued em down and the problem is solved, guys run 45psi on those motors without any sign of head lift!
oh yeah, sleeving helps the cylinders too
, true, we are working with an open deck...so don't run it insanely high unless you want to get it sleeved...my $1.50
Last edited by 350zDCalb; 05-10-2006 at 07:33 AM.
05-10-2006, 07:28 AM
#152
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Originally Posted by 350zDCalb
um...larger head studs..why don't we test this and see that it solves the problem before we overthink this and develop "fixes" that we don't need
05-10-2006, 07:31 AM
#153
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Originally Posted by Gman2004
Unfortunately not everyone works in the tuning/motor building industry and can pay little or nothing to get work done on their cars therefor if someone can come up with a fix other than having to pull the motor and installing larger head studs I am jumping all over it.
(I am serious too)
05-10-2006, 08:02 AM
#155
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Actually it is nice to have because I only have to burp the system once with the purge tank in there and it will burp itself after that. It only took about an hour to install and we all know how much fun burping the cooling system is.
05-10-2006, 08:04 AM
#156
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Originally Posted by theking
Actually it is nice to have because I only have to burp the system once with the purge tank in there and it will burp itself after that. It only took about an hour to install and we all know how much fun burping the cooling system is.
02-15-2008, 06:26 PM
#158
Originally Posted by G35cTT
Wondering if people solved their problem? I just got a new Koyo radiator and my car overheated today for the first time w/ the coolant filling up the overflow after the new radiator install. Took all the air and stuff out. Not sure what to do.
If you just changed out your rad, and immediately overheated, than the cooling system was not properly purged.
02-15-2008, 06:31 PM
#159
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
Holy old thread!
If you just changed out your rad, and immediately overheated, than the cooling system was not properly purged.
If you just changed out your rad, and immediately overheated, than the cooling system was not properly purged.
Not immediatetly, but maybe been a week or so no problem overheating. Then today going home drove it a little hard is when it happened. This is on Lo boost, this usually only happens on Hi boost. BTW thanks for the great price on the Koyo!
02-15-2008, 06:34 PM
#160
How did you bleed the cooling system? +1 on what Sharif said, your probaly isn't properly purged of all the air. When you turn on the heater does it get hot right away, or does it take a while and not get as hot as it should (like when it was stock)
LMK,
-George
GT Motorsports
LMK,
-George
GT Motorsports