my vortech tuner kit install process thread
04-18-2006, 12:06 PM
#141
i dunno I can look at the stock belt when I get home. Maybe it used to be a gates belt?
EDIT: minor update:
Jon has driven the car and said the car drives really well and the ATS clutch isn't too hard to manage at all. He's currently waiting to get another car off a lift so he can check for any leaks etc
EDIT: minor update:
Jon has driven the car and said the car drives really well and the ATS clutch isn't too hard to manage at all. He's currently waiting to get another car off a lift so he can check for any leaks etc
Last edited by sentry65; 04-18-2006 at 01:56 PM.
04-18-2006, 02:39 PM
#142
Originally Posted by THE TECH
That's interesting cause the Vortech install manual says it comes with a Gates belt. Part number 600-8MGT-20
04-18-2006, 04:19 PM
#143
Registered User
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Phoenix
Posts: 726
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I happened to stop at DynoComp just as they were pulling in with your car following a test drive - sounded great! Let us know if you picked it up tonight or not - the initial dyno #'s sounded promising
04-18-2006, 11:45 PM
#144
thanks Don,
Yeah I picked it up. Everyone is projecting 370-380 on their dyno which is basically where I'm hoping to land (around 420whp or so on a dynojet). I might be able to go higher with some aggressive timing, but with all the blown up engines lately - maybe i'll start out conservative and work my way up as time goes on.
so my initial impressions with about 100 miles on the car now (first 12 were done by Jon)
car doesn't start up so well because of the small hawker oddesey battery barely able to crank the engine over. But it does start and run fine. I'll order an optima battery tonight.
My idle is now at 750 rpms or so - thank technosquare for screwing that up cause I was wanting about 1000-1200. So driving the clutch is harder and actually the car is right on the edge of stalling because my cams really want like 850rpms for the idle. Anyway, the stall safety cushion is now gone not to mention you can hear the clunking of the clutch which was covered up before with the higher idle. I haven't heard any weird vortech noises yet at idle, but I guess I haven't popped the hood and let it sit there at idle purposly listening either. My A/C works great now and I drive with it on to up the idle that extra 250rpms to help with the clutch driving
The vortech is NOT as loud as it seems in the videos where people are driving around normal. I mean you can hear it, but it's faint until you give it a little gas. When driving with the windows up, I kid you not but it simply sounds like you have the AC on when you give it a little throttle with just a hint of whistle - as far as light throttle goes. You can obviously hear the vortech more with the windows down.
My wife was a little apprehensive about the vortech's whine from the videos cause she doesn't like high pitched annoying sounds. She doesn't mind it at all. She was really suprised how quiet it was and we found we kept listening for it. It is there though and is for sure louder than most FI kits for the Z sans the ATI. She said it's just loud enough for you to know something else is under the hood - of course I haven't gone WOT yet, but IMO WOT and normal driving are different sorta noise criteria anyway. You can hear the vortech sucking in air. Jon thinks that by relocating the air filter to the bumper that it as a side effect that might get toned down slightly
Later on my wife was driving her jeep while I drove the Z on the highway and she said that the Z sounded slightly quieter when cruising, but that when i'd give it just a slight amount of gas (I was checking out the boost gauge's sensitivity) she said even at minimum partial throttle the car sounded much louder than she remembers. So there seems to be more of a dynamic range in loudness now. I was expecting that too with the additional piping to quiet cruising down, but with more air to make WOT louder.
I like the 350EVO shifter much better than my rogue. On my car there so far doesn't seem to be any rattling whatsoever with normal driving. I haven't gone WOT yet which is where my rogue would barely rattle before. If it doesn't rattle much, I'm thinking it's partly cause Jon got the install perfect and/or the solid motor mounts keeping the transmission still since the engine is no longer vibrating while suspended between two pieces of rubber which vibrate the transmission in turn.
Speaking of which - I'm EXTREMELY happy with the solid motor mounts. I don't even know where to start. Now I haven't driven my Z for a month, but I swear the front end is more solid. My wife actually made a comment about it out of the blue saying the car seems more stable. I took a couple corners a little quick and between the solid motor mounts and the GTspec ladder brace, the car isn't as jumpy as before. Part of this might be the extra 90 lbs in the front of the car matching my zeal suspension better (10kg f, 8kg r springs) - hard to say.
the vibration from them is minimal - my wife didn't even notice it and said she can't tell any difference when I asked if she could feel a difference at idle. I do notice more vibration cause I know my car, but it is minimal. I'm really glad I stuck with the decision to go thru with them. Where it makes the biggest difference I think is the shifting is more exact - as in you have to be on top of your shifting or you'll get some minor jerking from the sudden engine braking. Somehow the car just feels more planted. The engine does feel a little bigger - now that I've driven it, maybe not quite like a V12 like I said before, but maybe more like a V8 or something.
The front end feels like that same feeling you get when you first put in a stiffer sway bar up front, but with none of the drawbacks of the suspension not adapting to the road as much - hard to pinpoint which particular mod did this, but I think it's everything
The ATS clutch is nice. It's much easier to drive now than when I first left Dynocomp. I stalled like 7-8 times on my way home taking surface streets to break it in more than just highway driving would - did some highway later on anyway. Jon said that just putting 12 miles on it he felt the clutch starting to break in and get easier.
Actually here's a true funny side story - As I was driving home from Dynocomp a convertable ferrari pulled up next to my at a light - that's scottsdale for you huh? Anyway he took off and I beat him by like 50 car lengths! ok really was what happened was he took off and I stalled - lol. I'm sure the guy was impressed with my car sounding all clanky from the clutch and the low idle vortech whislting in a wavy sorta way at such low idle.
It's hard trying to drive slow. I'm used to how the tilton clutch drove and just like that one, the ATS likes to be darted from a stop - not eased into moving. But trying to drive conservativly is tricky. I can say for sure even during the break in period that the ATS dual clutch does drive way nicer than the tilton does - even with the slightly jerkier solid motor mounts. No one should read into this and think the ATS is as easy to drive as stock or anything though - it's still an extremly light flywheel and I'd only consider it if you know you'll be ok driving around with the extra sensitivity.
hmm not much else to say since I haven't floored it yet. The car does feel quicker even at 40% throttle at 2-3k rpms. Oh I did manage to scrape my GTspec ladder brace three times going pretty slowly over curbs pulling into places. Oh and I also like the new gauges.
the only problems it has are all simple fix things - clutch breaking in, getting tuned, get a new battery, and to raise the idle.
Oh, I don't have the SES multi misfire code anymore - who knows why that is - might be the clutch change, ECU change, ECU mapping change, KJR pulley, all of the above, who knows but I'm glad.
I'm trying to decide if I should raise the idle by sending the ECU to technosquare or by having the dealer do it. Some people say the dealer method is not premanent and others say it is. Leaning towards taking it to the dealer I had the car towed to by Dynocomp - they have a good tech and they were wanting to hear the car up and running etc.
I'm convinced Jon at Dynocomp did a great install job. He did so many little detail things - put certain wires and such into little rubber sleeves so they'd be protected a little more from rubbing and heat and stay together, lots of carful bending and brakets and trimming to keep things from rubbing. He said it's probably one of his cleaner installs he's done and really gave it everything he could think of. The price for all the labor I thought was fair. They tended to round hours down. I didn't get charged for any of the clutch troubleshooting and any of the technosquare hours they spent dealing with them or going to the dealer with me etc. It was a lot of work and we're all happy with how the car turned out.
I'm probably going to get the car tuned sometime next week That's it for now. Man I'm glad to have my car back
Yeah I picked it up. Everyone is projecting 370-380 on their dyno which is basically where I'm hoping to land (around 420whp or so on a dynojet). I might be able to go higher with some aggressive timing, but with all the blown up engines lately - maybe i'll start out conservative and work my way up as time goes on.
so my initial impressions with about 100 miles on the car now (first 12 were done by Jon)
car doesn't start up so well because of the small hawker oddesey battery barely able to crank the engine over. But it does start and run fine. I'll order an optima battery tonight.
My idle is now at 750 rpms or so - thank technosquare for screwing that up cause I was wanting about 1000-1200. So driving the clutch is harder and actually the car is right on the edge of stalling because my cams really want like 850rpms for the idle. Anyway, the stall safety cushion is now gone not to mention you can hear the clunking of the clutch which was covered up before with the higher idle. I haven't heard any weird vortech noises yet at idle, but I guess I haven't popped the hood and let it sit there at idle purposly listening either. My A/C works great now and I drive with it on to up the idle that extra 250rpms to help with the clutch driving
The vortech is NOT as loud as it seems in the videos where people are driving around normal. I mean you can hear it, but it's faint until you give it a little gas. When driving with the windows up, I kid you not but it simply sounds like you have the AC on when you give it a little throttle with just a hint of whistle - as far as light throttle goes. You can obviously hear the vortech more with the windows down.
My wife was a little apprehensive about the vortech's whine from the videos cause she doesn't like high pitched annoying sounds. She doesn't mind it at all. She was really suprised how quiet it was and we found we kept listening for it. It is there though and is for sure louder than most FI kits for the Z sans the ATI. She said it's just loud enough for you to know something else is under the hood - of course I haven't gone WOT yet, but IMO WOT and normal driving are different sorta noise criteria anyway. You can hear the vortech sucking in air. Jon thinks that by relocating the air filter to the bumper that it as a side effect that might get toned down slightly
Later on my wife was driving her jeep while I drove the Z on the highway and she said that the Z sounded slightly quieter when cruising, but that when i'd give it just a slight amount of gas (I was checking out the boost gauge's sensitivity) she said even at minimum partial throttle the car sounded much louder than she remembers. So there seems to be more of a dynamic range in loudness now. I was expecting that too with the additional piping to quiet cruising down, but with more air to make WOT louder.
I like the 350EVO shifter much better than my rogue. On my car there so far doesn't seem to be any rattling whatsoever with normal driving. I haven't gone WOT yet which is where my rogue would barely rattle before. If it doesn't rattle much, I'm thinking it's partly cause Jon got the install perfect and/or the solid motor mounts keeping the transmission still since the engine is no longer vibrating while suspended between two pieces of rubber which vibrate the transmission in turn.
Speaking of which - I'm EXTREMELY happy with the solid motor mounts. I don't even know where to start. Now I haven't driven my Z for a month, but I swear the front end is more solid. My wife actually made a comment about it out of the blue saying the car seems more stable. I took a couple corners a little quick and between the solid motor mounts and the GTspec ladder brace, the car isn't as jumpy as before. Part of this might be the extra 90 lbs in the front of the car matching my zeal suspension better (10kg f, 8kg r springs) - hard to say.
the vibration from them is minimal - my wife didn't even notice it and said she can't tell any difference when I asked if she could feel a difference at idle. I do notice more vibration cause I know my car, but it is minimal. I'm really glad I stuck with the decision to go thru with them. Where it makes the biggest difference I think is the shifting is more exact - as in you have to be on top of your shifting or you'll get some minor jerking from the sudden engine braking. Somehow the car just feels more planted. The engine does feel a little bigger - now that I've driven it, maybe not quite like a V12 like I said before, but maybe more like a V8 or something.
The front end feels like that same feeling you get when you first put in a stiffer sway bar up front, but with none of the drawbacks of the suspension not adapting to the road as much - hard to pinpoint which particular mod did this, but I think it's everything
The ATS clutch is nice. It's much easier to drive now than when I first left Dynocomp. I stalled like 7-8 times on my way home taking surface streets to break it in more than just highway driving would - did some highway later on anyway. Jon said that just putting 12 miles on it he felt the clutch starting to break in and get easier.
Actually here's a true funny side story - As I was driving home from Dynocomp a convertable ferrari pulled up next to my at a light - that's scottsdale for you huh? Anyway he took off and I beat him by like 50 car lengths! ok really was what happened was he took off and I stalled - lol. I'm sure the guy was impressed with my car sounding all clanky from the clutch and the low idle vortech whislting in a wavy sorta way at such low idle.
It's hard trying to drive slow. I'm used to how the tilton clutch drove and just like that one, the ATS likes to be darted from a stop - not eased into moving. But trying to drive conservativly is tricky. I can say for sure even during the break in period that the ATS dual clutch does drive way nicer than the tilton does - even with the slightly jerkier solid motor mounts. No one should read into this and think the ATS is as easy to drive as stock or anything though - it's still an extremly light flywheel and I'd only consider it if you know you'll be ok driving around with the extra sensitivity.
hmm not much else to say since I haven't floored it yet. The car does feel quicker even at 40% throttle at 2-3k rpms. Oh I did manage to scrape my GTspec ladder brace three times going pretty slowly over curbs pulling into places. Oh and I also like the new gauges.
the only problems it has are all simple fix things - clutch breaking in, getting tuned, get a new battery, and to raise the idle.
Oh, I don't have the SES multi misfire code anymore - who knows why that is - might be the clutch change, ECU change, ECU mapping change, KJR pulley, all of the above, who knows but I'm glad.
I'm trying to decide if I should raise the idle by sending the ECU to technosquare or by having the dealer do it. Some people say the dealer method is not premanent and others say it is. Leaning towards taking it to the dealer I had the car towed to by Dynocomp - they have a good tech and they were wanting to hear the car up and running etc.
I'm convinced Jon at Dynocomp did a great install job. He did so many little detail things - put certain wires and such into little rubber sleeves so they'd be protected a little more from rubbing and heat and stay together, lots of carful bending and brakets and trimming to keep things from rubbing. He said it's probably one of his cleaner installs he's done and really gave it everything he could think of. The price for all the labor I thought was fair. They tended to round hours down. I didn't get charged for any of the clutch troubleshooting and any of the technosquare hours they spent dealing with them or going to the dealer with me etc. It was a lot of work and we're all happy with how the car turned out.
I'm probably going to get the car tuned sometime next week That's it for now. Man I'm glad to have my car back
Last edited by sentry65; 02-13-2007 at 04:01 PM.
04-19-2006, 07:55 AM
#147
I drilled the 1/8th inch hole in the throttle plate and iit worked like charm . Idle is much more stable and car drives smoother on and off the throttle . It Starts much better also
I had my idle set at 750 [ by the dealer ] and now it is at 800 to 850rpm
I had my idle set at 750 [ by the dealer ] and now it is at 800 to 850rpm
04-20-2006, 07:52 PM
#149
just some more things i've noticed
the stock motor mounts are pretty heavy - like 5-6 lbs each. I don't remember what the solid ones weigh, but they seemed like they were about 2-3 lbs each
I noticed 3 of my grounding cables are not connected and sitting in my parts box. I sat and thought about it for a bit and realized with the solid motor mounts - being solid metal, they act as huge ground connections
I still can't believe how much better the car handles. I keep saying that over and over, but it's that big of a difference
my belts are loosening up a little. When the car has been driving for a bit, it's much noiser than when you first start up the car. I've read that the belts stretch a little when heated up so that'd explain it. When I first start up, there's a brief belt whine that lasts about 3 sec then goes away.
The clutch is much nicer to drive than the tilton. I can take my foot off the gas even in 1st gear and the car won't jerk at you until you let it go for way longer than you normally would otherwise.
the SES light came on today. Probably good old multi misfire.
Anyway, have about 175 miles on it right now since the install
the stock motor mounts are pretty heavy - like 5-6 lbs each. I don't remember what the solid ones weigh, but they seemed like they were about 2-3 lbs each
I noticed 3 of my grounding cables are not connected and sitting in my parts box. I sat and thought about it for a bit and realized with the solid motor mounts - being solid metal, they act as huge ground connections
I still can't believe how much better the car handles. I keep saying that over and over, but it's that big of a difference
my belts are loosening up a little. When the car has been driving for a bit, it's much noiser than when you first start up the car. I've read that the belts stretch a little when heated up so that'd explain it. When I first start up, there's a brief belt whine that lasts about 3 sec then goes away.
The clutch is much nicer to drive than the tilton. I can take my foot off the gas even in 1st gear and the car won't jerk at you until you let it go for way longer than you normally would otherwise.
the SES light came on today. Probably good old multi misfire.
Anyway, have about 175 miles on it right now since the install
04-21-2006, 04:42 AM
#150
If your belt is squeeling..its way loose . And I've actually noticed the belt seems tighter after it gets hot . I tried a smaller belt once and couldnt get it on . So I stuck it in the oven to heat it up . Thinking I could stretch it a little to get it on . It actually was even further from getting it on than when it was cold
04-21-2006, 05:04 AM
#151
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: columbia md.
Posts: 1,041
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by booger
If your belt is squeeling..its way loose . And I've actually noticed the belt seems tighter after it gets hot . I tried a smaller belt once and couldnt get it on . So I stuck it in the oven to heat it up . Thinking I could stretch it a little to get it on . It actually was even further from getting it on than when it was cold
04-21-2006, 11:18 AM
#152
ok I'll keep that in mind.
The belt is for sure a little looser than when I first picked up the car - as expected. I'll have it tightened back up when I get it tuned.
I'm starting to think I might want to do the 2.87 pulley, but first thing's first, I should see what numbers I put down first with the 3.12. I'm not really sure where my boost PSI will end up with the 3.12 - guessing 8-9psi. I'm thinking the 2.87 would be good if I was willing to do resonated test pipes, but my car is plenty loud as is.
That and summer is coming up so I shouldn't go nuts trying to get more power. That and I'm out of big cash right now for the short term like if I were to hurt the engine
on another weird note, I got a bunch of guys in another forum telling me I should have gone with the stillen kit
The belt is for sure a little looser than when I first picked up the car - as expected. I'll have it tightened back up when I get it tuned.
I'm starting to think I might want to do the 2.87 pulley, but first thing's first, I should see what numbers I put down first with the 3.12. I'm not really sure where my boost PSI will end up with the 3.12 - guessing 8-9psi. I'm thinking the 2.87 would be good if I was willing to do resonated test pipes, but my car is plenty loud as is.
That and summer is coming up so I shouldn't go nuts trying to get more power. That and I'm out of big cash right now for the short term like if I were to hurt the engine
on another weird note, I got a bunch of guys in another forum telling me I should have gone with the stillen kit
Last edited by sentry65; 04-21-2006 at 11:30 AM.
04-21-2006, 12:48 PM
#153
Originally Posted by sentry65
ok I'll keep that in mind.
The belt is for sure a little looser than when I first picked up the car - as expected. I'll have it tightened back up when I get it tuned.
I'm starting to think I might want to do the 2.87 pulley, but first thing's first, I should see what numbers I put down first with the 3.12. I'm not really sure where my boost PSI will end up with the 3.12 - guessing 8-9psi. I'm thinking the 2.87 would be good if I was willing to do resonated test pipes, but my car is plenty loud as is.
That and summer is coming up so I shouldn't go nuts trying to get more power. That and I'm out of big cash right now for the short term like if I were to hurt the engine
on another weird note, I got a bunch of guys in another forum telling me I should have gone with the stillen kit
The belt is for sure a little looser than when I first picked up the car - as expected. I'll have it tightened back up when I get it tuned.
I'm starting to think I might want to do the 2.87 pulley, but first thing's first, I should see what numbers I put down first with the 3.12. I'm not really sure where my boost PSI will end up with the 3.12 - guessing 8-9psi. I'm thinking the 2.87 would be good if I was willing to do resonated test pipes, but my car is plenty loud as is.
That and summer is coming up so I shouldn't go nuts trying to get more power. That and I'm out of big cash right now for the short term like if I were to hurt the engine
on another weird note, I got a bunch of guys in another forum telling me I should have gone with the stillen kit
With your 3.9 gears....the Stillen crowd has nothing on you , as far as getting off the line . And you will be passing them half way down the track with or with out the 3.9 gears .
Last edited by booger; 04-21-2006 at 12:51 PM.
04-21-2006, 01:51 PM
#154
yeah I need to learn to do it myself.
yeah that's what I've been figuring with the stillen. That and my ATS clutch will be a good clutch to do hard launches on if it's warmed up, then it'll move way faster than a stock clutch into the powerband. Mainly it's just daily driving arguments people are throwing at me even though I'm all for doing road courses etc where the car will never launch or see below 3000 rpms anyway
yeah that's what I've been figuring with the stillen. That and my ATS clutch will be a good clutch to do hard launches on if it's warmed up, then it'll move way faster than a stock clutch into the powerband. Mainly it's just daily driving arguments people are throwing at me even though I'm all for doing road courses etc where the car will never launch or see below 3000 rpms anyway
04-25-2006, 03:26 PM
#155
update:
went in to tune today. I had 300 miles on the clutch, so it's broken in enough for WOT runs.
They checked the car over and everything looked great. They tighted up the belt a little. Earlier I had a small coolant leak out of the top samco radiator hose. I found out that the culprit was my nismo radiator cap going bad - had coolant inside the cap on the top where it leaked thru.
Put the stock cap back on and no more leaks. Dynocomp put another clamp around the samco hose anyway just to be sure.
Oh yeah, first thing I did today was go to the nissan dealer and had them raise my idle 250rpms - which was as high as it possibly could go. So now my idle is around 950-1000 rpms which is a big improvement, but not quite 1100-1200 like I was thinking I'd end up doing.
Anyway, got my car on the dyno and we ran into trouble with not getting enough fuel at around 5500 rpms and up. A/F looked great until there where it ALWAYS started raising. This was with and without the emanage ultimate. No matter how much fuel was added up high with the emanage ultimate there just wasn't any fuel being added.
They messed around with the fuel pressure regulator for a bit because they noticed that as they went WOT the fuel pressure would start dropping. The conclusion they came to is my 440 injectors are not big enough and that I need 550-600 injectors. I forgot a lot of the details with the vacuume etc, but they were kinda scratching their heads for a bit with the regulator. The MAF was not saturated, it still had lots of headroom
So because of that, they never did go above 6100 rpms because fuel started to get up to from under 12 at 5500 rpms to up to 13 at 6100. However I'm making pretty good power. I made 380whp at 6100rpm and it would still climb if it had more fuel. By the look of the graph, everyone thought it looked like it would hit 410whp if it had another 500 rpms to rev to redline. This is barely tuned - as not much effort was made fine tuning it since I'm just going to be getting bigger injectors anyway. I made around 333 tq at the wheels at about 4700 rpms and it looks like it more or less wants to hold it there up to 6100 at least - we all think it'll last there almost until redline then barely start dropping. It's hard to tell what it'd really be though until it gets fully tuned. It could end up higher.
Remember this is on a dynodynamics dyno without any sort of dynojet correction % increase. So 410whp on this dyno is around 445-455whp and 360-365tq or so on a dynojet. I was running about 97-98 octane gas, but Rich didn't push anything, he was just trying to get some baselines and figure out the fuel pressure dropping. I want the car tuned for basically 93-94 octane and I'll run at least that if not 95-96 for safety. APS TT Z's with stock tune make about 380whp and 380tq on their dyno - for reference. I know one APS ST with APS plenum and APS exhaust made 377rwhp and 395tq
They still are not 100% sure the fuel pressure regulator is bad or not, but the likely culprit seems to be the injectors at this point.
Oh, it looked like it would make about 9-10 lbs of boost at redline. Car sounds pretty pissed off at WOT
Anyone interested in buying a set of slightly used 440 injectors?
When I left, a high end $187k Mercedes S65 AMG V12 twin turbo was on the dyno making like 650whp and 800+ tq - stock or near stock. It wanted to come off the rollers even with two guys sitting in the trunk. Was told it did 11.5 1/4 mile on stock tires, and 10.8 on drag radials. It's dyno basically looked like some of the extreme ST Z's only 150whp/300tq higher. I'm guessing it's a big of a cow with handling since it weighs 4565 lbs. It took 4 hours to change all the spark plugs
The owner was pretty cool, but his buddy (who owns an SRT4) told me "not bad for a Z" and later went on how his stock SRT4 beat out all the Z's he's ever raced and saying they make twin turbos for the Z (guess he apparently thought I didn't know this?) and couldn't believe I made less tq than hp. He said he put down 210whp on their dyno (Z's put down 220whp there)
there was also a silver G35 there with an APS TT who blew their engine with a misshift putting in a built engine
went in to tune today. I had 300 miles on the clutch, so it's broken in enough for WOT runs.
They checked the car over and everything looked great. They tighted up the belt a little. Earlier I had a small coolant leak out of the top samco radiator hose. I found out that the culprit was my nismo radiator cap going bad - had coolant inside the cap on the top where it leaked thru.
Put the stock cap back on and no more leaks. Dynocomp put another clamp around the samco hose anyway just to be sure.
Oh yeah, first thing I did today was go to the nissan dealer and had them raise my idle 250rpms - which was as high as it possibly could go. So now my idle is around 950-1000 rpms which is a big improvement, but not quite 1100-1200 like I was thinking I'd end up doing.
Anyway, got my car on the dyno and we ran into trouble with not getting enough fuel at around 5500 rpms and up. A/F looked great until there where it ALWAYS started raising. This was with and without the emanage ultimate. No matter how much fuel was added up high with the emanage ultimate there just wasn't any fuel being added.
They messed around with the fuel pressure regulator for a bit because they noticed that as they went WOT the fuel pressure would start dropping. The conclusion they came to is my 440 injectors are not big enough and that I need 550-600 injectors. I forgot a lot of the details with the vacuume etc, but they were kinda scratching their heads for a bit with the regulator. The MAF was not saturated, it still had lots of headroom
So because of that, they never did go above 6100 rpms because fuel started to get up to from under 12 at 5500 rpms to up to 13 at 6100. However I'm making pretty good power. I made 380whp at 6100rpm and it would still climb if it had more fuel. By the look of the graph, everyone thought it looked like it would hit 410whp if it had another 500 rpms to rev to redline. This is barely tuned - as not much effort was made fine tuning it since I'm just going to be getting bigger injectors anyway. I made around 333 tq at the wheels at about 4700 rpms and it looks like it more or less wants to hold it there up to 6100 at least - we all think it'll last there almost until redline then barely start dropping. It's hard to tell what it'd really be though until it gets fully tuned. It could end up higher.
Remember this is on a dynodynamics dyno without any sort of dynojet correction % increase. So 410whp on this dyno is around 445-455whp and 360-365tq or so on a dynojet. I was running about 97-98 octane gas, but Rich didn't push anything, he was just trying to get some baselines and figure out the fuel pressure dropping. I want the car tuned for basically 93-94 octane and I'll run at least that if not 95-96 for safety. APS TT Z's with stock tune make about 380whp and 380tq on their dyno - for reference. I know one APS ST with APS plenum and APS exhaust made 377rwhp and 395tq
They still are not 100% sure the fuel pressure regulator is bad or not, but the likely culprit seems to be the injectors at this point.
Oh, it looked like it would make about 9-10 lbs of boost at redline. Car sounds pretty pissed off at WOT
Anyone interested in buying a set of slightly used 440 injectors?
When I left, a high end $187k Mercedes S65 AMG V12 twin turbo was on the dyno making like 650whp and 800+ tq - stock or near stock. It wanted to come off the rollers even with two guys sitting in the trunk. Was told it did 11.5 1/4 mile on stock tires, and 10.8 on drag radials. It's dyno basically looked like some of the extreme ST Z's only 150whp/300tq higher. I'm guessing it's a big of a cow with handling since it weighs 4565 lbs. It took 4 hours to change all the spark plugs
The owner was pretty cool, but his buddy (who owns an SRT4) told me "not bad for a Z" and later went on how his stock SRT4 beat out all the Z's he's ever raced and saying they make twin turbos for the Z (guess he apparently thought I didn't know this?
) and couldn't believe I made less tq than hp. He said he put down 210whp on their dyno (Z's put down 220whp there)there was also a silver G35 there with an APS TT who blew their engine with a misshift putting in a built engine
Last edited by sentry65; 04-26-2006 at 07:17 AM.