I want to see a video of this thing going sideways.

 

Drag radial equipped vehicles have dipped well into the 7 second 1/4 mile range which is WELL OVER 700whp. It's not all about tire..it's about how you set it up too.

I personally am not a big fan of full slicks. A nice tall sidewall M/T drag radial hooks just as well and you don't fell like you're going to lose the rear end the entire way down the 1/4 mile.

He needs to pull out that negative camber and actaully start letting that 295 use it's entire width. I'm basically at stock ride height and I was only putting down about 3 inches of tread on each tire under hard acceleration before I pulled that negative camber out. He's probably putting down even less of the tire.

 

You need a full racing suspension bro might as well get knew axles while you at it.

 

have you considered solid motor mounts and solid diff mounts? would be a lot of work to pull the engine back out though

 

BigBri I 100% agree with you here. I think this is the issue with a lot of his loss of traction. On Eibach springs (or lowered at all on this car) your negative camber is ridiculous. I doubt hes getting more then 40% of his contact patch on a drag launch.... My first suggestion is a set of SPC camber arms and toe bolts. Set your camber super positive. Your road race handling may suffer a little (don't know how much you do that) but your straight line traction will vastly improve. I'd set camber to no more then -1.0 in the rear. A little more positive if you can. Maybe -.8 or -.9. Toe to 0 in the rear. You should go ahead and fix your front camber too. With all the money in your car Cusco A arms are a small investment at $400. You can set front camber to -1.2 - -1.5 and be ok... Start there. If that doesn't help much look at doing gear based boost control. Not sure if the Unichip system you have supports that but if not you may consider something like the Apexi AVC-R or HKS EVC5 for that. The Blitz sbc-iD does it also I believe...

 

Ok so 600 or 650 for extra killing power is all i need. I might even stick with 550 after hearing about this. What is up with our cars. They just don't hook. Lets see after the suspension and camber mods.

 

Just saw you sig for the first time latley. Nice! Are you switching to a new EMS? How are you going to achieve 3 maps?

 

Well .... finally two people wanna agree with me here. His tires are MORE than enough for 700hp. His tires are good for 10s, 9s, maybe even 8s if driven right.

My best alignment spec for launching was
F (not that it matters much) - -0.7 camber, 0.0toe
R -1.0 camber, 0.05toe (toe at 0.0 felt squirrely past 80mph ... but a lil toe in helped it out a TON)

SPC rear adjustments at $210 will equalize/adjust nearly any Z/G dropped up to 2.5" back into factory spec. But like BriMax alluded to ... a lowered car isn't what you want for racing anyways. Given your setup and your current struggles, your best bet/remedy is a fresh (nearly camber free) alignment.

 

I have that set-up + Kinetix arms and I cant get better than -1.9 camber in rear, and Ive raised my car 2X They say their stuff is good for + - 2 degrees its not. And you always want a little toe in, because as you learned under acceleration you get some + toe. So if you set to 0 toe it feels like crap...

 

Which Kinetix arms? The traction arms? If so I would pull those off right now. Those things kill your caster and can prolly have a negative affect on the SPC correction. I was lowered over 1.5" and could get my camber to -.9. I run 0 toe for a while but I don't drag as much as you so I'll defer to you for that. I do run -.05 each side for toe now but I think its tracking a bit more then it did with 0 in the rear. May switch that back...

 

Kinetix Front A... or rear camber arms? I've seen a G here dropped (I think ~2.4") get right back to -1.4. This is with the SPC rear arms (350Evo fronts, irrelavent here though). As always ... all cars are a bit different.

That said, I think the SPC is the most adjustable out there.

 

bigbri, do you have an aftermarket LSD?

my car fishtailed a lot before I got mine

 

Bruce you should have been driving last night. Rob had some problems.

We missed you.

I thought Rob had set the camber up for you once specifically for drag racing. did that help? Dale had slicks so he had to race in comp rod. I don't know if he was able to hook up or not.

 

Nope stock lsd...Thanks for all oyur help guys...I'm def going to fix the camber and go back out there and see what happens....I'm def not running it like this again...I was scared and so was everone at the track...they were making me run alone and holding off the other lane because I was getting so crazy..

 

Stock LSD may be out matched too. I'd start with the camber stuff but definitely look at a new LSD also...I mean at this point theres not much you can do aside from full upgrades. New axels, lsd, fix camber and toe, etc. The camber should help a bit but if the stock LSD is slipping under accel it needs to go too.

 

I just installed a set of special level5 axles... will be tracking them Friday with DR's hope they hold up. Next up is my ATS diff (waiting for new bearings)

BigBri: Absolutely AMAZING man... I am sure you will get that beast under control. I have the Tein CS & use the softest setting for the rear and a mild setting up front. I hope that will give me a bit better traction, but I think I will have to go with rear camber arms and traction rods. Let me know what you try, I would be very interested to hear what helps you correct this problem.

--B

 

I am an idiot in this department but would the rear end have anything to do with it? I know its been proven wrong but alot of people say the Z's don't have a good rear end for drag racing? Ignore my ignorant post if it is indeed a bunch of BS.

 

Here is a quote from a fourm where there are 9 and 10sec cobras that I talk to and am trying to set up a race with...a couple of them were there...one guy said and this is a straight quote from the other fourm.....

 

"DR's aren't any good for that kind of HP." Go to the link below. There are cars with 3x his HP that run in the 7's on DR. Everyone thinks slicks are the only way to go. Don't you guys want to be able to launch your cars off a street light if a fast car is wanting to race you? Or are you going to tell them lets go from a roll all the time.

All you need is some suspension work and your car will hook up. Good Luck.

http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/press_10_18_04.html

 

yeah I think an aftermarket LSD will help tons

instead of fishtailing and going sideways, with a stronger LSD it I not only gets better traction, but it keeps you facing straight much better than before.

you'll get less wheel hop with solid motor mounts and solid diff mounts - SPC is coming out with solid diff mounts in a month or two.

your engine must be making so much torque, the stock engine mounts are probably turning to mush while the engine tries to twist itself out of your engine bay, which hurts traction because the driveshaft is physically moving side to side instead of simply turning and doing nothing else

solid rear diff bushings will keep the rear diff from squishing and rotating side to side. It'll stay solid and simply turn the axels. It's kinda the same thing as solid motor mounts, only instead of having an effect on the driveshaft, it keeps the axels from physically moving up and down and instead just rotate

that bushing movement creates bouncing energy which will lift/bouce the tires off the ground or at least reduce the steady gravity force pushing down on the tires

getting rear suspension arms with spherical bearings might help slightly too, though only a little