Wow, just found this thread (haven't been on the forums much lately). Sorry to hear bert, yours was one that I didn't expect to go like that. Just build it bigger and badder.

Couple of questions if you don't mind.

1. Did you still have the factory rev limit or was it raised?

2. You said you did a track day, do you mean roadcourse or just the drag strip? If you did mean roadcourse did you keep tabs on your oil temps?

3. Have you ever over-revved the motor accidentally?

I'm just trying see what similarities the "well tuned" but still blew up 350Zs out there have.

Good luck man...

 

1. Was set at 7400rpm's I revved to 7200rpm's ONLY for the 1-2 shift, never touched limiter. Also saw above stock redline for running through the traps in 4th gear, at 116mph in 4th Im at about 7000rpm's.

2. MIR was a 1/4 track day about 16 runs many back to back nothing crazy but I wasnt easy on it-most FI raggage of my car for sure though. Look back for vid...

3. Way back when I was first mod'd I recall a 3-2 pushed the clutch in quick saw like 7500 on the tach. Valves didnt tick, no symptoms of problems from that 1 slip up. Could it have weakend something? Sure, but I doubt it contributed to this though....

If I had to put my $$$ on something, the few seconds spent over stock redline didnt help. Ill obviously know more when it gets broken down.

 

Now I'm no machinist but it does sound a lot like its the revs that kill our motors. Revs alone put SO much more stress that boost will ever put on a rod. One small stress fracture and its over or a slow death to come.

 

EXACTLY

 

From the sounds of it you lost a rod, and I was just wondering if you ran your car out more because rod failure is traditionally rpm related, not power related. If I could put my money somewhere, it would be rod failure due to excessive revs. I don't believe that power alone grenades these motors.

Good luck with the build. Your car is going to be a BEAST.

 

If 400-500rpms made mine go at 3000rpm's it wouldnt have lasted another 3000rpm's with stock redline-not with me anyway. I dont blame myself or the higher rpm's for it either, people say the rod bolts are the weak link but we dont surely know. Cant wait to see the inside of my block-or whats left of it.

 

it's probably everything that contributed to it - high revs, high torque, high abuse

 

I don't think the fact that it blew up @ 3000rpms was important. That's just when the part finally gave out. Doesn't mean that the pull you were commencing caused it. The damage could have been done much earlier and over a period of time. Again this is just my opinion. I don't want to start a back and fourth thing in your blown motor thread. We'll probably never know what REALLY happened. But you don't have to worry about stock motors anymore

 

I see what your saying and I agree. I can tell you NA that I did rag that 7100 rpm Techno limiter bad, that could have caused it also. They say the Revups have stronger rod bolts but we may start seeing those 7000rpm redline turbo Z's crap out sooner than other motors...

 

Well I guess a good way of looking at it is that you have now contributed to the knowledge of our motors. Its like anything else, things have to go wrong before the right thing can be found ya know? Due to your issue I have decided to still install my kit and all the other things that come with, but leave stock rev limit, run the stock turbonetics boost, and go VERY conservative with the tune. Sorry again about your car, but most of us on the site expect big things from you in the future

Derek

 

oops double post

 

yeah, spill the beans Richard,

is it the same person who we eat Chipotlees with from time to time...that you tell me he is thinking about opening a "shop" and giving warranties for full blown turbo setups?

 

Damn Alberto, sorry to hear about your loss. However, I bet that the new engine you put together will be scary. Going for around 550 whp? Out of curiousity what the hell do you do for a living? haha After 3 transmissions, turbo kit, with other tuning and upgrades and a soon to be built engine with 15 psi. or something or other that is getting expensive. I think i'm in the wrong field and should change careers asap so that I can also put like 15 grand into my car.


I just installed an ATI procharger kit, although I had the ECU reflashed at AAM I'm guessing that with the stock ecu, stock fuel injectors and no UTEC or Greddy EMS it is not enough to keep the engine safe. But from what everyone was saying about the rpms killing the engine (which makes sense), I've been shifting at 6000 rpm even though the rev limiter is set to 7100. (this sucks at the track because i have to shift into 5th gear before the finish line). Despite the precautions and taking it easy on the engine during the street and conservative driving at the track I'm getting worried now that I hear everyone blowing engines. However, it seems like the majority of the blown engines are from single turbos and their ability to put out full boost around 3000 rpms. Since I have a supercharger putting out 380 rwhp, and it doesn't kick in until high rpms, I'm hoping that I'm more on the safe side. But, if the unfortunate does occur, where are some good websites or shops that I can find built short or long blocks with forged internals to handle between 400 and 500 hp and around 9 psi of boost safely?

 

Yes I would advise stock rev limit now as an added precaution. Who knows how much longer my motor would have lasted if any-but its another precaution everybody can now take-although most do keep stock redline.

I work for my father-family owned commercial cleaning company, I dont have many bills Im young I live at home so I have the ability to do this-gotta do it while I can In regards to where you can look into for motors---> www.forgedinternals.com www.builtzmotors.com and also AAM- www.alteredatmosphere.com which you know is close to us offer motors for your needs. Last one before I forget SGP racing in Texas can ship short/long blocks.

For now it will be sleeved block, Arias ED Pistons, Pauter Rods, and JWT cams and valvetrain. With this Ill look to max the current turbo (around 500whp) and later when my wallet is just starting to recover Ill upgrade the turbo and shoot for SICK ST numbers

 

sounds like a nice set up. bring it up to capitol when it's finished or i'll have to come down for mir track day so i can see what kind of E.T.'s you will be making with that engine. i'm sure you will surprise some of the mustangs and f-bodys. with some low 11 or high 10 sec. runs.

 

... and you're probably one of the only members on this site who can say that and still be respected.

Bert, looking forward to your rebuild good luck.

 

Yo bert, I'm coming back to SS at the end of next week til july 4. If you're 'round, drink and el pollo rico on me.

 

isnt there a stroker kit that would help, thats one of the 1st things i would do to make sure my engine could hold power.

when i get either a turbo or supercharger i may at the same time upgrade some stuff in the engine.


it never hurt to be safe from the start

 

I posted the truth, after I did I thought "here we go now people will start assuming what I do or dont pay for" Car is now paid off, I got my 1st car on the road last summer (now my beater-daily), I dont have credit card debt(like many young people get into) hence the reason to go FI in the beginning of the year. Thanks though

That sounds awesome man, I havent been up there in months! PM me when your coming and we'll meet up....

A stroker kit would help, because the components would be forged not because of the increased displacement, right now there are no stroker kits available-unless you go custom. Depending on what you go with in the future-most likely a built block w/stock sleeves and forged internals will hold up to IMO 90% of most people's goals/use, for those going BIG--->600whp+ the sleeves arent a bad idea

 

Fuuuuug! Sorry to hear that Alberto.

Well its one more example of an engine blowing up even when everything is done by the book.

Your description sounds identical to what Gurgen went through with his PE TT kit. Right down to the same RPM.

Well at least you will have a better built engine because of it. If possible, use water alky injection in your next build.