Wouldn't it be better to buy a bare block and build it as time/loot permits? For example, buy all the goodies that will carry over to FI, then buy a VQ block and buy the rods, pistons, crank as funds permit...THEN go FI when you can afford to?

 

i'm sure that would be great.

You can also open a savings account and put $200 into it each month

 

buy a used second engine and build it to FI as funds are available... when all is ready swap it in. Should the original engine die, you will have a spare.

LoL... since I hit a wall during a track day (more superficial than anything, but still a pain in the *** to pay for body repairs...) that's what I have been doing.

I call it, the being-stupid-is-expensive fund

 

That's what I was getting at, thanks for clearing that up. I'm suprised more people (FI peeps in general) don't do it.

 

most people either can't afford it, or would rather just wait for the latest parts, fixes, headgaskets, cooling fixes, engine packages etc to be available and use those when the time comes.

Like if you bought pauter rods a long time ago, when eagle rods would suit you just fine for 2/3 the price etc

 

Oh, I agree with you 100%. But the initial shock of a rebuilt engine would be less if you already had a block/rods/slugs that you had bought over a course of time than if, say, "I was doing 40mph @ 4200 and I threw a rod @ 5 psi...NOW I have to build an engine, and I'm out my car for x months."

I mean, how many different internals have come out for this gen Z? How many more will come out before this gen VQ reaches EOL?

I don't even own a Z, but I WILL. I'm using this board for research, and you guys are MORE than helpful. Seeing how the Z doesn't respond to FI that great (stock bottom end, anyway), I'm trying to limit the pain in my ***. Seeing how I'm in the military, my pay doesn't afford me the "It's gonna happen, so.." mentality. I want the coolest (sub-30K) car available, with kick *** HP (which requires FI), and minimize my headache (built motor). Hence the reason for this thread.

Thanks for all the inputs!

 

yeah but even people with built engines are having issues with headlift etc - then again they're not running stock boost levels etc

 

Well you also don't go into it with the absolute assumption the motor is going to blow, you go through your first 6 months of holding your breadth whenever you make a run to slowly accepting that maybe just maybe yours will be ok, is that denial?, then you just enjoy some are not lucky and it blows others like me just waited long enough to finally say I want a block and I am working on mine even though after 2 years and 20k miles the engine is still together.

 

But the FI mantra in this section seems to be "It's not if, but when". For example, if person x blows their motor, everyone responds with "Oh man, I feel for you, but hey, that's the chance you take going FI, 'specially with stock...good luck on your rebuild."
My point being, if person x had a built motor prior to going FI, he/she/it would've had a better chance keeping the built motor intact. I would just like to prepare for that eventuality.

 

Point taken. I'm not niave enough to think that built goodies=invincible, but I'd like to think that a forged, balanced, low compression, built motor could be somewhat bulletproof @ 500 whp.

 

That is just it, I don't think it is a matter of WHEN, the blown motors here are not all of the population, the shop down here has over 20 FI installs and tuned many others and to date only two have blown, both early TN kits that changed exhausts, so don't think it has to blow, it is a risk and as long as you do your homework and know your limits it can last. I think that in the sub 450RWHP and sub 400RWTQ the motor can last, how long only time will tell and we see more people with FI installs.

 

I would have gone down that path but there just aren't any used revup blocks available. Good luck finding one. You can't even buy a bare revup block from Nissan yet. That's why I'm running on the stock block right now.

 

I really, really hope you are correct. I would LOVE to go Vortech+8psi+good tune after break-in.

 

I hear ya. But I wonder...what's the difference between, let's say, a Altima/Maxima VQ and a Z VQ? Let's say I can buy a 2004 Maxima VQ for $1500, then add a good crank, forged rods, and low compression pistons over the span of 4 months...to be installed in a '06 Z with an FI of 8-10 psi? I'm guessing the only diff is ECU/cams (valve train, maybe?), which you would be able to carry over anyway.

 

The engine mount positions are wrong so you can't fit an altima/maxima engine

 

Due to castings on the block? I realize the Altima/Maxima are FWD, therefore the mounting positions are opposite, but I'd be suprised if the castings for a RWD platform (Z, G) weren't there. Of course, I may be wrong!

After all, I'm just talking about a VQ block, be it from a Xterra, Altima, Maxima...if any of those BLOCKS could be used in a Z, zsweet. If not...fak, I'm stuck with looking for a Z/G block. A 3.5 is a 3.5 is a 3.5...if I was a car company that slapped a 3.5 VQ into a RWD (Xterra), RWD (Z), RWD (G), FWD (Altima), FWD (Maxima)....I'd make that SAME 3.5 VQ universal as hell....give the X more torque via cams/tune, the G/Z more torque via cams/tune/ECU, and the Altima/Maxima a little less via cams/tune/ECU, so I don't embarass the flagships (Z/G).

 

The FWD VQ's have the mount spots casted in different spots than RWD VQ's on the small block.

 

Well fak...guess I'm off to looking for a G/Z block. Thanks for the info!