I know FI is never cheap, but what will the cheapest route set me back
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I know FI is never cheap, but what will the cheapest route set me back
I am assuming it's the APS ST kit. What would I be looking at to get the APS ST kit + install, clutch, and tuning? I just want enough to get up and running and the exhaust and gauges will come a little later. Also, are there any good shops here in Cincinnati/Northern Kentucky?
Thanks,
Matt
Thanks,
Matt
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I got a used Vortech from my buddy for $3750. Harness $300. Plugs $65. Oil Spacer $100. Tune $200. Thats about as cheap as you can get. Installed myself. Some good deals can be had on used kits, but BE SURE OF WHAT YOU BUY!
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if you go cheap (slap on the APS TT) and don't build the engine, unless you run it at about 5 psi (which is really low and you most likely won't be pleased and ed up turning up the boost) then you will blow the engine. A new engine from nissan is $7k, but a used one can be had for about 2 grand, if you send the company your old engine. I know the best GREDDY install I found was $2500, a UTEC (which would be really beneficial) would be $1200 for the unit plus tune, not to mention the kit, plus gauges and all that good stuff.
Basically, you have to pay big to play big.
EDIT: and even then sometimes you still have to pay even more to fix your engine when your FI still blows it up.
Basically, you have to pay big to play big.
EDIT: and even then sometimes you still have to pay even more to fix your engine when your FI still blows it up.
Last edited by MrKaira; 08-01-2006 at 04:50 PM.
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Originally Posted by mrpratt
Basically, you have to pay big to play big.
For the temporary discounted price the APS ST kits are going for, you can hardly go wrong. Just be sure you live in close proximity to an APS dealer/installer. There is also the option of the Turbonetics stage 1 kit, or tuner kit with 3rd party ems and fuel system.
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Originally Posted by mrpratt
if you go cheap (slap on the APS TT) and don't build the engine, unless you run it at about 5 psi (which is really low and you most likely won't be pleased and ed up turning up the boost) then you will blow the engine. A new engine from nissan is $7k, but a used one can be had for about 2 grand, if you send the company your old engine. I know the best GREDDY install I found was $2500, a UTEC (which would be really beneficial) would be $1200 for the unit plus tune, not to mention the kit, plus gauges and all that good stuff.
Basically, you have to pay big to play big.
Basically, you have to pay big to play big.
I wouldnt say that unless you only run 5psi, you'll blow the engine. No FI option is totally safe, but you can minimise the risks to some degree with a proper tune and all the precuations. A standard engine isnt immune from going bang (although a warranty would cover that).
No option is truely cheap though.
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I never really considered supercharging, are the numbers comparable? I am not to familiar with superchargers, do they only need the things you listed that you got from your buddy, what about fueling? thanks, matt
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Originally Posted by Mvolps22
I never really considered supercharging, are the numbers comparable? I am not to familiar with superchargers, do they only need the things you listed that you got from your buddy, what about fueling? thanks, matt
Peak dyno numbers for each type of kit can be a bit misleading. You've got to understand how each system works and how it builds boost, and power.
For instance, if you compare cars with centrifugal supercharger and turbocharged setups, both at 400whp, the turbocharged car will actually be "faster".
Also, don't count out the roots blower equipped cars. For their peak whp #s, they are deceptively fast on the bottom end.
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Originally Posted by taurran
Peak dyno numbers for each type of kit can be a bit misleading. You've got to understand how each system works and how it builds boost, and power.
For instance, if you compare cars with centrifugal supercharger and turbocharged setups, both at 400whp, the turbocharged car will actually be "faster".
Also, don't count out the roots blower equipped cars. For their peak whp #s, they are deceptively fast on the bottom end.
For instance, if you compare cars with centrifugal supercharger and turbocharged setups, both at 400whp, the turbocharged car will actually be "faster".
Also, don't count out the roots blower equipped cars. For their peak whp #s, they are deceptively fast on the bottom end.
Ive just recently come to that conclusion myself. Im selling the supercharger and have ordered the tn st. Im a little more nervous about my stock motor with a turbo vs vortech, but i want more torque than im currently getting. The vortech is a great kit if you dont get the itch for more power. (yeah right..). My vortech dynoed at 391 rwhp with stillen dual 3.12 pulley and spacer.
The thing with the vortech is when you punch it at say 3500 rpm you get about 3lbs of boost. Imagine getting 8lbs at 3500. This is where im worried about my rods
*shamless plug*
Vortech is coming off when st gets here pm
if your interested.
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Originally Posted by Alberto
Cheapest FI is not a ST kit, its the Stage 1 or even 2 Stillen. Wont be the fastest but it is cheap.
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Originally Posted by mrpratt
what psi were you at when your's blew?
That won't tell you much. The mechanics of boosting the stock motor are far too complex to blame it on a single variable such as boost level.
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