gringott

iTrader: (17)

+1 I have seen those, but held off buying because there was no way to know what it sounded like.

BrokeZ

iTrader: (1)

OK, i will try a sound clip today. Be patient!

Zilvia

iTrader: (1)

yeah Purple fin is the best thing you can do for teh HKS SSV................tah gold/silvier is the trap birdie sound..............leave taht for the hondas a drifters

KTaylor

iTrader: (17)

yea id love to here a clip. i heard its alot quieter

4SHIZZIL

iTrader: (10)

ANYONE WHO HAS BLOWN THEIR ENGINE NEEDS TO SHUT UP! HAVE SOME RESPECT TO YOUR ELDERS WHETHER THEY ARE RIGHT OR WRONG!

9 PSI IS THE MAX FOR A VQ35 ENGINE PERIOD! YES, YOU CAN MAKE MORE POWER, YES YOU CAN RUN 10 -13psi, BUT GUESS WHAT, ONLY FOR A LIMITED TIME, NO MATTER WHAT YOUR AIR FUELS ARE OR what the DYNOJET HP NUMBERS SAID, its going to blow up!

The thing that gets me is... that everyone here is an expert. I have found errors from AAM, Turbonetics, Vortech, TEIN, Greddy and everyone else be it person, shop or manufacturer.

Funny, I bought my car in Jan of 2006 and put 19K miles on it. Smoked (sometimes by only a nose) about 50% of the Northern VA population and my car is stock for the most part. If you want to be the best, take out a loan and open your own shop and race for a living, but guess what? You still will make huge errors and miscalculations. If you are talking numbers over 400WHP (Which is the MAX) on a stock block, your comments and HP number are void, because they are temporary. If you build your block, then come talk smack, until then respect everyone for being an enthusiast that has the same passion as you. and me...going fast in a G or Z.

The difference between me and most is that I drive my $600 a month car payment G35 everyday and will not let a shop hold it for over 5 days, or blow it up, or overcharge me for things like K SSV's or 3 inch exhaust. (no reason to have 3 inch on a N/A engine I have walked down a Z on the top end because of lack of back pressure with the huge AAM True Dual 3inch exhaust with HF cats and AAM Plenum spacer and Pop Charger, I only had the Rev Up and AAM Pspacer).

I have the money to buy a built block ($4400), but I want my engine numbers matching 10 years from now, and I like my rear end (I have seen one snap with "stock block" GreddyTT, which that engine just died recently too! Like I said, if you blew your car up, you hold no wait or professional opinions in my book.

Shame on those shops where people paid big money (too much) only to have them also blow their car up in one form or another. No names need to be mentioned.

Just we all need to understand and respect one another for being in the same hobby for Christ sake.

Question: If a shop is professional and an expert, then why would they tune a stock block for 13psi or even more than 9psi, knowing it WILL destroy you engine?
Answer: So your stupid donkey face can pay for that build and the future rebuild too. It’s all about the money not your safety or car health.

Air fuels will help you not blow you engine in one way (detonation), but the amount of physical pressure in the non-forged VQ35 (rods) engine can only hold around 8 to drive it every single day, boosted or 400WHP.
If you care about your car like I do, buy a built engine as your first mod (600RWHP capabilities for about $5K. Then add the goodies later. If not, bolt-ons is the way to go, but limit PSI for forced inducted stock blocks... to about 8-9psi. 8 is plenty and on a GreddyTT that about 465Whp.

The gentleman who started this post is a respected person for his independent efforts. I feel a need to share my experiences to the younger guys wanting big HP. Most dyno runs are ran at PSI levels that are NOT RAN EVERYDAY. If ran everyday keep that AAA card handy.

The most reliable kits I have seen are the OUT OF THE BOX, no tuning required Stillen Stage 1,2,or 3, TN Single, GreddyTT and Vortech. Like I said, out of the box, no extra I’m going to blow my block one day mods!!!The Greddy TT out of the box kit doesn’t have an intercooler. Because running the out of the box settings are good at low psi!!!!

Supercharged G has many miles on his Stillen Stage 3 Supercharger. And what is so funny that some who talked smacked to him, probably has to take the bus because they were so fast they blew right by him on the track but blew their block too...lol.

I am not ridiculing anyone here for blowing an engine that sucks; just the younger guys need some real advice when it comes to why engines blow up. Its not just lean air fuel ratios, its also pressure to non-forged internals! Take your time, do extensive research,then mod your ride.
Be safe and God bless us all on the road and in our decision making.
All the above is my UNPROFFESSIONAL opinion too! DOH!

gringott

iTrader: (17)

Wow.

InjectedPerf

iTrader: (15)

Some good points. The only problem I see by having a built motor first and adding parts later is you will have a 8.5:1 or 9.0:1 NA Motor. Not the best setup. If you are going to build the motor it is much easier to install the Greddy kit with the engine out. I know it is hard to drop $10+k in one sitting but you will save money for labor.

BrianLG35C

iTrader: (2)

Ok, so what's the best setup in your opinion?

InjectedPerf

iTrader: (15)

GT42 with a 4.3L stroker j/k .

For a completely stock car without exhaust, plenum spacer, etc. the APS twin kit seems to have the best quality. It is the hardest to tune as most companies don't tune Unichip, but the quality is much nicer than the Greddy. Simplicity and availability for future mods the Greddy kit. Easiest to install is the Vortech kit or APS single kit (both kits taking approximately 8-12 hours). With APS fixing the oiling issue it might be the new best alternative. We haven't sold many of the APS single kits but have sold quite a few of the Vortech. Just depends if you want a supercharger or turbocharger.

Sharif@Forged

iTrader: (92)

4Shizzle...wow...that was way out of left field. I appreciate your comments.

I don't think anyone here ever said that running 13psi on a stock block is safe. As a general course of business, we dont tune stock block cars past 400whp. This customer wanted to test the limits, and that is HIS choice...not yours. He understands the risks, and was willing to take them.

4SHIZZIL

iTrader: (10)

Plus two, yeah 8.5:1 would suck as an everyday driver, however not everyone can afford it all at once (just because you buy it doenst mean you have to put it in yet either). Plus running a less than stock HP G or Z would motivate us more to get that turbo or supercharger...lol. I agree the Greddy is easier to install out of the car, however most of us cant afford the GreddyTT anyways...lol. I just wish I bought my engine before rims and spacers and cats etc.... but then again, whit 600RWHP, you need a new clutch, rear diff, brakes, flywheel, cooling, suspension etc. So its never ending... my opinion is stock block on an out of the box FS kit. Im thinking Stillen stage 3 for about 420 crank. Think about it, how many cars in the world from the dealer have more than 400HP? Not many. In the DC area how many cars push over 400? There are few, but the majority are on this site...lol.

4SHIZZIL

iTrader: (10)

I wasnt aiming at you guys at all or any one who wants bigHP, this is just a reminder if information that most that go over 400 blow. My little bro wants to mod his mustang and he wants to go twin turbo....so Im in the education mood today..lol.

I just dont see any shop allowing customers that want to go over 400WHP on a stock block that is willing to replace the pieces on the test dyno run?

People need limits.

Maybe I will start my own shop and build reliable cars for my customer...I built F-111's and F-15 from stratch for 6 years.

chimmike

iTrader: (7)

stillen stage 3 will never make anywhere near 420chp. Where do you figure that? 420chp is like 380+whp. I've never seen even a stage 4 stillen get more than 340whp. Stage 3 stock, no headers, stock exhaust, MAYBE 290-300whp, but barely any more.


Also, reading your thread about a n/a VQ not needing 3" exhaust? and you walked a guy due to his lack of backpressure? BACKPRESSURE IS BAD!!! You don't EVER want backpressure.

What you want is velocity. Did you know the Nismo exhaust is a single 3" pipe? I bet you didn't. And I bet you didn't take into account the displacement of the motor does fit very well with use of a single 3" exhaust pipe on N/A applications. Matter of fact, I wouldn't run any smaller than 3" single on the VQ35 for fear of backpressure.

for 600whp you do NOT need a new diff. You don't need a new flywheel or even a new cooling setup. It's a good idea to do all those, but they are not NECESSARY upgrades.

InjectedPerf

iTrader: (15)

You do need clutch (RPS comes with a replaceable flywheel inserts), axles, cooling is a recommendation for what it costs, probably valvetrain, can't think of what else but I know there is more.

Not bashing just reminding people it does get expensive really quick when you start building a motor. You can think you are going to get away with a $4-$6 built engine then end up spending quite a bit more. I have seen numerous times when someone comes in and then ends up spending more, not by us being awesome salesmen but them deciding that is cheaper in the long run .

4SHIZZIL

iTrader: (10)

Not necessary is 600WHP! You dont need 500WHP, if you are to do it, do it right and safe is my entire post homie.

Yes the NISMO is 3 inch, howerver I was talking about the AAM TRUEL DUAL 3 inch Exhaust, I assumed everyone new that, Who has a single exhuast now days? Ony Supras but, I will edit my post for the more easier reading.

I have HF and stock exhaust and my car runs/sounds just fine.

420 crank horse power is achievable with the stillen set up on the rev up (with safe mods), do your research just as I did. You would actually have to pick up the phone and call Stillen becase the part numbers for the rev up just came out like 2 weeks ago for the 6sp (Vortech mid summer too), I can forward you the email if you need more verifaction?

FYI: Dont ever bet against me, you would lose. I am certified car crazy..I own about 4 cars buying yet another this weekend (Volks Eos,i bet you dont know what that is...lol). Infinity, Buick, AMC, Isuzu so the spectrum is covered. And thats just current, I probably have had more cars that you are old...lol. We dont need to start a big mess, my post was to educate poeple wanting to go over 400HP, just as I said in my first post, error are all over the place I am no exception, however the trueth is often covered up by guys and gals with the lack of dignity and respect for the hobby.

4SHIZZIL

iTrader: (10)

30K should get you a dependable complete packaged car.

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

You are coming on here kind of strong I think. I respect some of your opinions but theres no need to come out attacking people. And FYI its Infiniti not Infinity. If you are going to own the cars might as well spell the names correctly.

TENGAI

iTrader: (5)

Modding is addictive. The almighty quest for more power and bigger boost ultimately lends to customers shelling out more money and shops pushing limits with new concepts and proven skills.

Two things usually happen with this:

1. Customers ultimately change their approach (in a shop or doing it themselves) which usually costs more in the long run.

2. Shops continue to refine their skills through building setups for customers (which is usually never the same twice).

One thing we all have to remember - We're all NEWBS! The VQ35DE platform is still a fledgling on the tuner scene. Whether or not you had experience in a car before the Z's matters only to a point. And while past experience has guided so many shops over the last 3 years, look at how many shops have sprung up lately in support of these cars. These aren't Civics or Supras. So nothing is really tried and true just yet...

Before we turn any discussion into a ****-slinging monkey fest, we need to remember that we're all enthusiasts bitten by the Z tuner bug. Knowledge is power and the fun is that we all get to learn this stuff along the way.

Not trying to stir a debate (any further than it already has), but trying to bring to light that a conversation can be made intriguing given the right initial mindset.

Just food for thought.

4SHIZZIL

iTrader: (10)

I admit my errors! Infinity, NFenatee! lol. Please correct me when I wrong, the purpose of the board is to learn and educate. I am always all ears. Sorry to sound harsh, that is not my character at all, just expressing my experiences with the industry, especially recent trends.

InjectedPerf

iTrader: (15)

I haven't added it up lately but you are probably pretty close. Most people can't understand spending $30k in mods for a car that now costs in the low $20s. That would definately give you a 600rwhp+ car with reliability if built by a knowledgeable shop. But that was the same case with the Supra and people are spending 3-4 times the cost of a Supra these days.