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Planning on doing the TT thing. Need some Help.

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Old 10-26-2006, 02:21 PM
  #21  
rocks
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Here is my question. The kit involves some internal upgrading. How difficult is this to do urself. And i dont want to hear an answer from people who HAVENT done it themself. I dont care if you watched someone do it. i just want to know from people who HAVE done it and how difficult it is and what it is that difficult. Thanx
If you have to ask that question you shouldnt try and install internals yourself. I will do heads and cams but i will not put in pistons and connecting rods on. Cams you just need a feeler gauge and specs. I suggest you go buy a book called engine blueprinting a balacing.
Old 10-26-2006, 02:30 PM
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Cannysage
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how many miles on da z? I have 29k but want to get a knew one to build. fcon maybe the way to go in terms of tune.
Old 10-26-2006, 04:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Wired 24/7
WTF Bryan you have to keep me updated on this ****.

First you're getting a sport bike and selling the Z.

Now back to the turbo plan?

Time for you to set your plans in stone and decide once and for all!
lolz, hes already changed his mind and will change it again b4 the next post!
Old 10-26-2006, 04:06 PM
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Vick781
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Blue + gold +turbo = Teh win!
Old 10-26-2006, 04:17 PM
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TENGAI
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https://my350z.com/forum/mid-atlantic/226322-parting-out-another-mid-a-loss.html

I'm parting out and selling just about everything you want...

Anyway, good luck and enjoy the power - no matter which way you go.
Old 10-26-2006, 04:20 PM
  #26  
EM-EFER
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Assembly of the block is no problem with the proper tools. Just check clearances and torque everything to spec.

Have a really good machine shop to balance everything though.
Old 10-26-2006, 04:32 PM
  #27  
B-Unit
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Originally Posted by Wired 24/7
WTF Bryan you have to keep me updated on this ****.

First you're getting a sport bike and selling the Z.

Now back to the turbo plan?

Time for you to set your plans in stone and decide once and for all!
I decided to keep the Z!

Time for some real fun coming soon to a Z board near you!
Old 10-26-2006, 04:34 PM
  #28  
B-Unit
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Originally Posted by rocks
If you have to ask that question you shouldnt try and install internals yourself. I will do heads and cams but i will not put in pistons and connecting rods on. Cams you just need a feeler gauge and specs. I suggest you go buy a book called engine blueprinting a balacing.
I fail to understand the pertinence of this post..

So what i havent installed the parts before. I am EXTREMELY handy when it comes to things like this and I have an entire garage full of tools.
Old 10-26-2006, 06:26 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by B-Unit
I fail to understand the pertinence of this post..

So what i havent installed the parts before. I am EXTREMELY handy when it comes to things like this and I have an entire garage full of tools.
I think hes just pointing out that its not for nubs.
Old 10-26-2006, 09:11 PM
  #30  
350zDCalb
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Originally Posted by EM-EFER
Assembly of the block is no problem with the proper tools. Just check clearances and torque everything to spec.

Have a really good machine shop to balance everything though.
True...having all of the proper tools and the know-how is what makes a HUGE difference...

for example, when we build a motor (bottom end), the first thing we do is check all the crank journals with a micrometer. Next, the main caps are torqued down on the block(with ARP mains and moly). The main journal housings are checked individually with a bore gauge. Then the math comes into play, easy subtraction, but with 5 decimal places!



Very often, if you simply followed Nissan's specs (crank codes and block codes) to figure out the bearings needed, the clearances would be too tight for a racing application/F/I setup (but still within spec).

We go through this process with all the rods and the rod journals as well... This adds a good 2-3 hours onto the building process, but this ensures that the clearances are large enough to accomodate the stresses that will be placed on the motor.

Just to share: recent build: Arias ED pistons, eagle rods, ARP 1/2" head studs, HKS headgaskets = very beefy combination


And, on the flip side, a stocker that couldn't hand and went kaboom:


piston exploded and bounced off the cylinder head a few hundred times:


Let us know if you have any questions about a motor build, I'll be happy to help...and we have a few shortblocks machined and assembled and ready to ship!

-TODD

Last edited by 350zDCalb; 10-26-2006 at 09:15 PM.
Old 11-08-2006, 02:45 PM
  #31  
B-Unit
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Ok cool I have an update.

Right now im looking at getting the Greddy TT kit off a member on here. It looks as if the parts im going to be getting with this kit is.

=======================================================

Greddy TT with FMIC which includes...

# Cast Manifolds
# External Tial Wastegates
# e-Manage
# 440cc injectors
# Intercooler with necessary piping

Im also getting an AEM wideband and a blitz blowoff valve, blitz turbo timer, braided boost lines, and an ARC oil pan.

Additionally im getting a GReddy E-01 Emanage programmer and boost controller with the turbo kit.

Now heres the thing... im not too hot on the emanage i have heard from friends with the emanage that they would not use it again if they could.. so im still planning on getting the UTEC.

What about fuel return... im still going to need to get that right?? Im thinking the AAM MaxFlow Stage II

What else do you guys see that i need to get besides the obvious guages, clutch. etc.

Thanx!

-B-

Edit: o yea i forgot to add. With the ARC oil pan, i want to get some AAM oil return lines, will these fit with the arc pan?? I mean if the stock greddy kit lines fit then i would imagine the aam ones working...

Last edited by B-Unit; 11-08-2006 at 03:03 PM.
Old 11-08-2006, 04:00 PM
  #32  
B-Unit
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Wow. Ok did some searching. Here is a list of what im looking to add to the kit.

Am i missing anything???

Oil pump?? Which 1?? Rev-up??

Crank??

Thanx!

-B-


Turbo Kit Build Components
============================================================

1. RC Engineering 550cc Injector Set - $550

http://www.forgedinternals.com/store...cat=251&page=1

2. AAM MaxFlow Stage II Fuel System- $1,199

http://www.forgedinternals.com/store...cat=295&page=1

3. AAM Oil Return Line Kit- $89

http://www.forgedinternals.com/store...cat=264&page=1

4. Eagle ESP Forged Rod Set- $570

http://www.forgedinternals.com/store...cat=249&page=1

5. Greddy Wastegate relocations- $330

https://my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=167345

6. Arias Forged Piston Set 8.5:1 .020 - $760

http://www.forgedinternals.com/store...cat=249&page=1

7. NGK Iridum Spark Plug set- $65

http://www.forgedinternals.com/store...cat=264&page=1

8. ARP Head and Main Stud Kit- $399

http://www.forgedinternals.com/store...cat=264&page=1

9. Greddy Catch Can- $100

http://www.forgedinternals.com/store...cat=276&page=1

10. Walbro 255lph Intank Fuel Pump- $83

http://www.injectedperformance.com/V...ID=1634&VID=36

============================================================ ===



Electronics
============================================================ ===

For this im either gonna do the Utec or maybe the new Cobb Acessport

Last edited by B-Unit; 11-08-2006 at 04:07 PM.
Old 11-08-2006, 04:34 PM
  #33  
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Shiet, just buy my APS kit
Old 11-08-2006, 06:07 PM
  #34  
Navygolf13
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Bryan, I have exactly what you need. A built motor and JWT TT kit...everything ready to go and installed is $15k. Let me know, there is a thread in the turbo classified and the engine classified. I will send you a PM.
Old 11-08-2006, 06:11 PM
  #35  
B-Unit
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Responded.
Old 11-08-2006, 07:52 PM
  #36  
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Meh instead of having someone do the install I went to sears and purchased tools. As long as you are willing to live with the added costs and down time of your mistakes its all good. Either way you will need a tune and any good shop can check your work for a few extra bucks to your Dyno time.

Nothing feels better than saying you do your own work, and if it took you 4 months well you can leave that part out..lol
Old 11-08-2006, 08:23 PM
  #37  
B-Unit
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O yea. i have no issues doing the wrench work myself. im super handy with tools and diy stuff so im not sweating this install.
Old 11-13-2006, 08:30 PM
  #38  
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Bump for Comments on the components!

Turbo Kit Build Components
============================================================

1. RC Engineering 550cc Injector Set - $550

2. AAM MaxFlow Stage II Fuel System- $1,199

3. AAM Oil Return Line Kit- $89

4. Eagle ESP Forged Rod Set- $570

5. Greddy Wastegate relocations- $330

6. Arias Forged Piston Set 8.5:1 .020 - $760

7. NGK Iridum Spark Plug set- $65

8. ARP Head and Main Stud Kit- $399

9. Greddy Catch Can- $100

10. Walbro 255lph Intank Fuel Pump- $83


-B-
Old 11-13-2006, 10:15 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by B-Unit
Bump for Comments on the components!

Turbo Kit Build Components
============================================================

1. RC Engineering 550cc Injector Set - $550

2. AAM MaxFlow Stage II Fuel System- $1,199

> why not just get the APS big fuel system and get a complete setup?

3. AAM Oil Return Line Kit- $89
> I would suggest a full oil pan replacement from APS that includes the oil reuturns

4. Eagle ESP Forged Rod Set- $570
>Fine

5. Greddy Wastegate relocations- $330
>Good

6. Arias Forged Piston Set 8.5:1 .020 - $760
> I would get slightly higher compression, maybe 9:1. Many will suggest to spend the extra money on the ED pistons

7. NGK Iridum Spark Plug set- $65
>Make sure to get one step colder than stock

8. ARP Head and Main Stud Kit- $399
> Get the ARP L19 head studs and the standard ARP mains

9. Greddy Catch Can- $100
>not needed. Put the 100 bucks towards the full replacement oil pan

10. Walbro 255lph Intank Fuel Pump- $83
>Forget this and get the APS big fuel system. It is complete with pumps, rails, FPR, lines, and injectors for just a bit more than you have listed for the components


-B-
And there you go ^^

You will also need head gaskets, go with the HKS set, along with a full gasket set from Nissan

Last edited by Zivman; 11-13-2006 at 10:20 PM.
Old 11-13-2006, 10:41 PM
  #40  
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Looks good, along with the suggetions from Zivman. If you are only shooting for 500rwhp range I would get the CJM return system instead of the AAM or APS. The Max flow stage II system is meant to be used with their return style sytem. So add another $1k if you plan on using the stage II.

Last edited by thawk408; 11-13-2006 at 10:46 PM.


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