punish_her

iTrader: (8)

Hey man, dont want this to sound mean but read the full thread. Every thing you asked is in there for the exception of a switch. Im guessing a simple single pole normaly opens switch is what you need there. So when the switch is in the off position poer is applied and when its on power is removed.

The only way this would make any diffrence besides orientation is if you used A) gaurded safety switch so that if the gard comes down it turns the switch off



or

B) have an activation light so when the switch is on its lit to draw your attention to it that way you dont forget its on



Now there are all sorts of varriations of switches. From little bitty micro switches to big ol'e flashing strobing 2 in diameter mushroom switches. That your own decision. But for the love of god dont get a mechanic to install the switch! First, not all mechanics know how to splice wires properly and what you sir need some one who can. So ask first. Second, your gonna be charged an hour of labor for a $1.50 switch. Get some one who know what they are doing and buy some beer for christ sakes. There are thirsty electricians every where.

Sally Struthers may do that feed the children thing but my charity I firmly believe in is Buzz the Skilled Friend Foundation. Making the world better with beer.

EDIT: and for those who need their mechanic to install a switch, I recommend the mushroom switch. That you you know EXACTLY what it for and you cant miss it AT ALL!



um yeah ... J/K

kevin8086

iTrader: (5)

so i just read all 19 pages and i get nothing out of this?? are you selling these at all to ppl with a 6mt on a z

punish_her

iTrader: (8)

Its mentioned several times even in the last pages even by KP him self.

Wire the 101 with a switch.

He is out of the modules.

5at does not work with either 101 or module.

He was trying to sell the moduel. But didnt get the responce he needed to mass produce it.

So bottom line, there are instructions and pictures in this thread. If you wanna do it read the info and get what you need. Do the research and find out what your getting into.

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

We had mixed reviews from testing. We were unable to get anything working on a 5AT car, but, to my knowledge all the 6MT installs were successful.

However, due to the large amount of variations in cars and trims from '03-'07 we can't claim that our testing was done to a wide enough audience to guarentee the module work work. Since this is a low priced module targeted at a small audience it really isn't worth our time messing with it IF we can't guarentee it works the way we say it does.

So, what I have asked is that the people who are interested in this module install a switch on the brake wire as mentioned in this thread. If it works let me know and I can get the modules. I just don't want to waste my time building modules and shipping them out if they are only going to be returned because people can't get them to work. If the switch works then KPtech module will work. So, I guess we're asking people to verify that this module will work before they actually order it.

punish_her

iTrader: (8)

Correct hints the "didnt get the responce needed to mass produce". Im interested in the switch my self. Trying to prevent any Ghetto rigging and crappy modding. Since your switch hooks up in a stock ihs manner by the TCS switch its ideal for that. I was actualy bummed to here they wernt mass available any more.

I'd like to test one for you but Im not back in the stated until the first week or so of December. All else fails there are small micro switches that are available that can easily be hidden and I always have the OBD II code reader.

I'll hit you up in December when I get back and see if there are any available.

ma_sha1

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the clarification & photos.
I have a 5AT, my understanding is that the 5AT will still work
but will have side effect of killing cruse control & need CEL re-set.
Right?

If I am ok with side effefct, will the brake boost work on my G35x 5AT
for sure?

Can I expect to pick up 0.02" on the 1/4 mile? I am at 13.2, wants to get into 12s.

punish_her

iTrader: (8)

It's realy unclear. Not many 5AT's have tried it. The one(s) that have had issue, real bad issues. So I you can try it if you want. Its just that 5AT's have many other interdependant gizmoes that are unpredictable varriables.

On a side not um picking up .03 will drop a 13.2 to 13.18. But I know what you meen.

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

You can't brake boost a supercharger.

QuadCam

iTrader: (8)

Kevin,

what were the issues on the 5AT cars?

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

Dan had several problems - the most severe was his cruise control not working, and doing some really weird things. He can be more specific, but if I remember right it would work fine until he turned his left turn signal on, then it would freak out. After he took the module out everything went back to normal.

ma_sha1

iTrader: (1)

Why???

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

The point of this is to put a load on a motor to spool the turbos. Supercharges are belt driven, so they work on RPM, not engine load.

I guess it may be possible to somewhat brake boost a supercharger by maintaining a speed at a high RPM. Of course, as soon as you let off the brake you'll have to shift.

punish_her

iTrader: (8)

I'd call that more wearing your pads, than break boosting. The SC is RPM dependant reguardless of load. So with the breaks on or off an SC does not know the diffrence either way. The extra oomf that is shown from trying to break boost an SC is realy quite obvious. THE BRAKES ARE OFF .

Best thing for an SC to build boost quick is to down shift. The increase in revs puts the boost to the motor. There is just no way you can brake boost an SC and have it be brake boosting. Some may call it that but the intent of brake boosting is to put a load on the motor at lower RPMS which pushes out more hot exhaust gasses. Intern, spools the turbos faster at lower RPM's directly building boost down low.

ma_sha1

iTrader: (1)

I still don't see a difference between brake boosting a S/C vs NA.
I get 0.2 second faster when launch at ~1500 rpm than launch at
0 rpm, both in N/A & S/C situation.
Higher rpm, I am having problem triggering TCS or trigger the "cut power" nanny.
Even when VDC is off. So I am getting inconsistant runs while launching at
>1500 pm, usually worse than 1500 rpm run.

I know I have not reached the stall limit, which is some where 2500-3000 rpm,
I think I can get 0.1-0.2 better if I can launch at the stall limit without triger any "nanny" mechanism. Thus, willing to try the 101 wire trick on my 5AT S/C.

punish_her

iTrader: (8)

Hey man one small thing. You are getting brake torquing and brake boosting confused. Brake torquing is loading up an AT by pushing on the break and holding the revs higher where you wan to launch it. This takes the slack out of the drive train and preloads the torque all the way to the wheels. You can brake torque N/A, SC, or TT. But its at a stop.

Brake boosting is done from a roll. You have to have a load on the engine in order to spool the turbo's. You place more load on the engine by holding down the brakes making the engine work harder at lower RPM's, therefore producing more exhaust gases spooling the turbos quicker. They key is you keep moving forward. You can reach peak boost much sooner.

The key is with both you must push down the gas and brakes at the same time activating your "nanny" mechanism (as you call it). As for your results, well your results are the fact that you are launching higher in the power band than sitting at idle. So you will get into the power quicker, reducing your time. Thats more technique and skill combined with reatchion time. If the 101 switch works for your 5AT you may get better launch times and quicker ET's.

Vader007

iTrader: (23)

I just came across this thread and read every page, I dont know if you MT guys know this but the 5at cars dont come with VDC at least in the Z's!
And its for sure that the ECU cuts power when both the brake and gas are applied together in a 5AT. ( the computer asuumes you are sliding and in panic mode, thus you are on both peadls at the same time so it cuts the power for you) So perhaps the wiring is different since we dont have VDC, I dont have cruise control as I opted for an aftermarket sterring wheel because of my paddle shifters and would be happy to help test any new modules. I bought the brake fuse switch from the other guy, that worked great until the soldering broke on the custom fuse, now its usless.

P.S. my car is an 04.5 touring model Z.

Havok_RLS2

iTrader: (9)

Flame suit ON!

zpeedray

Ok i see all the threads of this mod and i finally decided to do the mod with a switch to the P/L 101 cable on the ecu. I only have one question. do i need to install a fuse on the cable and so which fuse AMP. I think it will be the same as the one in the fuse box fo this circuit. correct me if Im wrong. Im planning to buy a greddy remote to do this or go to the junkyard and buy a VDC used button to use it as a BB switch. I know that i will need in the remote greddy case a 12v cable convert to the plug system that greddy remote uses. I have a 6MT 2003 G35. And BTW, any one with a lauch button like this..

http://www.bmracing.com/index.php?id...s&sid=3&cat=16

terps

iTrader: (2)

I going to do this however had a question, with an illuminated switch, it would light when the switch is closed(on), so it would constanly light except when I broke the loop. I would like it so when I turn the bb function on it illuminated, and was normally off. the 12v switches only have three prongs load, power, and grd. anyone know a way around this.

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

wire the power side to switched ignition, wire the ground wire to ground, wire the load side to the coil of a relay.

Cut the brake signal wire and run it through the NC contact of the relay. With the switch off, the relay will stay deenergized. With the switch on, the switch will light, the relay will energize, and the signal will be broken.