brake boosting a TT 350z.
it doesnt work if your tires are gripping the pavement. with my tires spinning i can hold the brake and rev it to redline like your are supposed to be able to do. but when i have traction i can still only rev to 2400, which i think is the stall speed of the torque convertor.
This is sotra OT for this thread but...
Jim Edwards, Jime, over on Maxima.org has a resistor on his throttle pedal that is used in conjunction with his line lock on his 5AT VQ35 Maxima. What it does is when he floors it the ECU only sees 30% tps, not 100%. It seesm to work like a two step. I think he has a resistor in parallel with the actual TPS signal wire so when its not activated the signal follows the path of least resistance through the OE wire and when its activated the relay interrupts the OE TPS signal wire so the signal has to go through the resistor. This way the relay would not actually ever cut the circuit and cause a CEL. The resistor reduces voltage by a linear amount. So at 50% actual throttle position the ECU only sees 15% and at 100% throttle position the ECU sees 30%. Id imagine you could use a potentiometer to fine tune it to suit your stall speed or launch RPM.
Has this been done on any 350Z/G's?
Thoughts?
Jim Edwards, Jime, over on Maxima.org has a resistor on his throttle pedal that is used in conjunction with his line lock on his 5AT VQ35 Maxima. What it does is when he floors it the ECU only sees 30% tps, not 100%. It seesm to work like a two step. I think he has a resistor in parallel with the actual TPS signal wire so when its not activated the signal follows the path of least resistance through the OE wire and when its activated the relay interrupts the OE TPS signal wire so the signal has to go through the resistor. This way the relay would not actually ever cut the circuit and cause a CEL. The resistor reduces voltage by a linear amount. So at 50% actual throttle position the ECU only sees 15% and at 100% throttle position the ECU sees 30%. Id imagine you could use a potentiometer to fine tune it to suit your stall speed or launch RPM.
Has this been done on any 350Z/G's?
Thoughts?
The pedal on the 350Z uses two seperate voltages that must be a certain (I believe inversed) ratio. You would have to get that ratio perfect, otherwise you would throw codes and go in to limp mode.
Originally Posted by KPierson
Summary:
You can't brake boost a 350Z/G35 from the factory because the ECU does not allow the brake and throttle to be applied at the same time.
KPtechnologies ( http://www.KPtechnologies.com ) came up with a module that limits brake signals going to the ECU to ~1 second. With the module installed you can press the brake down and after the 1 second timeout period the ECU 'thinks' that the brake was released, thus allowing brake and throttle at the same time (because the ECU doesn't think the brake is being pushed).
It has worked well on several 6mt vehicles with no loss of functions. There is one person having problems with his 6mts cruise control. I'm not sure if his is installed correctly because I've never talked to him.
One of the modules that was sent out to be installed in a 5AT proved to not work. There is more going on with the 5ATs then the 6MTs. I have no idea why it doesn't work, and we most likely won't try to make it work. At the present time, the module is considered for 6MT vehicles only.
With this module installed you can build boost while driving the car at a controlled speed by applying the brakes while pushing on the throttle. This loads the motor up, which spins the turbos. When you release the brake you could be near full boost. Keep in mind, that while the brakes are being applied the wheels are STILL spinning, thus creating heat and eating up brake pads.
You can't brake boost a 350Z/G35 from the factory because the ECU does not allow the brake and throttle to be applied at the same time.
KPtechnologies ( http://www.KPtechnologies.com ) came up with a module that limits brake signals going to the ECU to ~1 second. With the module installed you can press the brake down and after the 1 second timeout period the ECU 'thinks' that the brake was released, thus allowing brake and throttle at the same time (because the ECU doesn't think the brake is being pushed).
It has worked well on several 6mt vehicles with no loss of functions. There is one person having problems with his 6mts cruise control. I'm not sure if his is installed correctly because I've never talked to him.
One of the modules that was sent out to be installed in a 5AT proved to not work. There is more going on with the 5ATs then the 6MTs. I have no idea why it doesn't work, and we most likely won't try to make it work. At the present time, the module is considered for 6MT vehicles only.
With this module installed you can build boost while driving the car at a controlled speed by applying the brakes while pushing on the throttle. This loads the motor up, which spins the turbos. When you release the brake you could be near full boost. Keep in mind, that while the brakes are being applied the wheels are STILL spinning, thus creating heat and eating up brake pads.
You have PM!
Sorry for the revival but...
Originally Posted by KPierson
I've done a bit more testing and found that if you completely remove the brake signal from the ECU it will throw a brake switch code. The car is still drivable, but the cruise control is disabled until you reset the code.
It seems that there was alittle some thing that was missed, well more over looked. It was stated when KP pulled the 101 wire from the ECU that it didnt throw a CEL right away and it was only after a while.
So technicaly the 101 switch would work if you use it for just racing and turn it back on during normal driving. From what I gathered the CC was tripped off imediatly so you need to clear it. So for a guy like me who ALWAYS has an OBDII code reader in the box behind the passenger seat, and only would use this at the track or occasionaly; I would just put a switch in line with 101.
So if you already have an OBDII reader its not necessary to have the module, only for convinience.
By no means am I trying to take his busines but the original thread kinda went from a how to; to a buy this. It just kind of evolved this way.
At this time we have no plans of offering this module through our site. It just isn't feasalbe for us to test the module on every combination of Z/G availible to make a compatability chart. We were really hoping it would work on the ATs, but it didn't work.
If you are just looking for track use a switch will work with no issues. If you are looking for a permanent modification that won't throw codes or cause other issues you'll need something to make it work right.
If you are just looking for track use a switch will work with no issues. If you are looking for a permanent modification that won't throw codes or cause other issues you'll need something to make it work right.
Originally Posted by KPierson
I only got feedback from one 5at guy. His vehicle is an '03 G35.
If you come up with a mechanism to turn your module on/off (like maybe integrate it into the VDC switch module), then I'd think there'd be a sizeable demand for it, even from the 5AT crowd, and even if there are issues with cruise control (because you can always just kick VDC back on and return operation to normal). Just a thought since you've put the effort in...
The effort I put in to the module is paid off by my use of the module.
The headaches working with the install and support of a module that may or may not work on certain trim levels just isn't worth it.
SFLG35s issues were 100% related to this module. He had no issues before it was installed, he had issues while it was installed, and the issues went away once the module was removed. He used a Cipher and verified the ECU was reading things right, and it was.
There is obviously a programming difference between different trim levels. I would think, from a controls stand point (that is my specialty, after all), that if the ECU 'sees' one brake signal but not the other brake signal that a code would be thrown, as it would be impossible to only have one brake signal present. I bet that this is a bug that may (or may not) have been fixed on newer Gs/Zs.
The headaches working with the install and support of a module that may or may not work on certain trim levels just isn't worth it.
SFLG35s issues were 100% related to this module. He had no issues before it was installed, he had issues while it was installed, and the issues went away once the module was removed. He used a Cipher and verified the ECU was reading things right, and it was.
There is obviously a programming difference between different trim levels. I would think, from a controls stand point (that is my specialty, after all), that if the ECU 'sees' one brake signal but not the other brake signal that a code would be thrown, as it would be impossible to only have one brake signal present. I bet that this is a bug that may (or may not) have been fixed on newer Gs/Zs.
Originally Posted by phunk
whats availability currently like? i am considering the track this weekend. if you had one around i would overnight it.
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Originally Posted by punish_her
Sorry for the revival:
It seems that there was alittle some thing that was missed, well more over looked. It was stated when KP pulled the 101 wire from the ECU that it didnt throw a CEL right away and it was only after a while.
So technicaly the 101 switch would work if you use it for just racing and turn it back on during normal driving. From what I gathered the CC was tripped off imediatly so you need to clear it. So for a guy like me who ALWAYS has an OBDII code reader in the box behind the passenger seat, and only would use this at the track or occasionaly; I would just put a switch in line with 101.
So if you already have an OBDII reader its not necessary to have the module, only for convinience.
By no means am I trying to take his busines but the original thread kinda went from a how to; to a buy this. It just kind of evolved this way.
It seems that there was alittle some thing that was missed, well more over looked. It was stated when KP pulled the 101 wire from the ECU that it didnt throw a CEL right away and it was only after a while.
So technicaly the 101 switch would work if you use it for just racing and turn it back on during normal driving. From what I gathered the CC was tripped off imediatly so you need to clear it. So for a guy like me who ALWAYS has an OBDII code reader in the box behind the passenger seat, and only would use this at the track or occasionaly; I would just put a switch in line with 101.
So if you already have an OBDII reader its not necessary to have the module, only for convinience.
By no means am I trying to take his busines but the original thread kinda went from a how to; to a buy this. It just kind of evolved this way.
Are you referring KP switch as the 101 switch?
If that's the case, I would like to get one. I have a scanner & clear codes weekly.
thanks
Ma
If you look at the refrence it was in relation to the putting a switch inline with the 101 wire NOT the KP module. No where did I mention using the module. Every thing I was talking about in the portion you quoted was gathered from KP's removal of the 101 wire test and its symptoms.
So again, if you have a reader, just put a switch (not KP module) inline with 101 and just clear the codes whenever. From the slight confusion of your question I feal I kinda must state the obvious again. The 101 circuit has to be complete to clear the code. So when the switch is off the circuit is broken and the faults listed occure. When you turn the switch back on the circuit is complete and only then can you clear the codes.
And this is a note for the people who might want to argue the terms of on off. Those terms are dependant on whether the switch is normaly open or normaly closed.
So again, if you have a reader, just put a switch (not KP module) inline with 101 and just clear the codes whenever. From the slight confusion of your question I feal I kinda must state the obvious again. The 101 circuit has to be complete to clear the code. So when the switch is off the circuit is broken and the faults listed occure. When you turn the switch back on the circuit is complete and only then can you clear the codes.
And this is a note for the people who might want to argue the terms of on off. Those terms are dependant on whether the switch is normaly open or normaly closed.
We don't currently have any of these in stock.
I think the best way to proceed is for people to use the switch on the 101 wire. If that works for them and doesn't cause any major issues let me know and I'll get some modules made. This way people can test their car before they purchase the module, and I don't have to worry about selling stuff that isn't compatible for whatever reason.
I think the best way to proceed is for people to use the switch on the 101 wire. If that works for them and doesn't cause any major issues let me know and I'll get some modules made. This way people can test their car before they purchase the module, and I don't have to worry about selling stuff that isn't compatible for whatever reason.
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Sorry, I don't know which is the 101 wire.
If I buy a switch & ask a mechanic to put on the 101 wire, is he going to know?
Is this the only wire to splice? What about power, ground etc?
Is there a alternative name to the wire? Where is the best place to put the switch?
What type of switch to buy, online?
KP,
Could you get some more test module in for the 101 wire, I would buy one,
if you are not doing it, could you send me a instruction
on splicing the 101 wire?
thanks a bunch
Ma
If I buy a switch & ask a mechanic to put on the 101 wire, is he going to know?
Is this the only wire to splice? What about power, ground etc?
Is there a alternative name to the wire? Where is the best place to put the switch?
What type of switch to buy, online?
KP,
Could you get some more test module in for the 101 wire, I would buy one,
if you are not doing it, could you send me a instruction
on splicing the 101 wire?
thanks a bunch
Ma
Last edited by ma_sha1; Oct 5, 2007 at 12:31 PM.
Originally Posted by ma_sha1
Sorry, I don't know which is the 101 wire.
That image is from the 2005 G35 Coupe Service Manual. You might want to download a set of Service Manuals for your car and find the correct wire. It is probably the same, but I'm not 100% sure.