I am gonna have to change my oil this week but im wondering what to do this time. My problem is that when I drive my car hard the psi when Im idling drops right in the middle of 0 and 30 psi. I have the TN kit so you can imagine the motor gets pretty hot, What Type and Grade of oil do you guys use??? One more question how much do you guys think I should put in since I have the stillen oil cooler? I was thinking maybe 6 straight quarts b/c of how these motors burn oil??? ANY HELP would be great guys, seriously thank you in advance. Oil is so important that IM at a serious crossroad on what to use.

 

Thats pretty normal. The idle oil pressure should be 15-20 PSI. I have run Turbonetics TS-1 (5W-30) for over 50k miles now and it has been great for me...

 

Well the thing is Im FINALLY getting tuned on wednesday for my built motor and TN KIT, so I wont be able to get the turbonetics oil. But your running 5w-30, so thats a start. I guess what Ill do is run royal purple since they sell it at pep boys. What do you think about the amount of quarts though??? you think just str8 6 is a good idea?????

 

Measure the sump oil temperature and idle oil pressure exactly to calculate the hot viscosity required.

What type of external oil cooler and oil temp controller do you have?

 

I think the best idea is to plan on spending 30 minutes and adding 5 qts plus til u are comfortable with the level, then writing it down in ur Manual. That way there will be no contradictions.

And if u want to spend the money on the RP ---Fine, Otherwise go down to WalMart and buy a couple of 5 qt. jugs of Mobile 1 @ 22.00 each. From that point forward, buy a 5 qt. and use the extra one for the top off oil. Repeat at the milage of ur discression.

 

I use 6 quarts of oil with a JWT pan spacer. Before I had that I used 5..

 

I'm running Amsoil 10w-40 in hot FL.

 

I do also ---But he has just the cooler and its going to be 5 Plus X amount of ounces I suspect. Im a ***** sometimes but in some cases its best to TIY. Also , Its good practice for future endeavors.

Trying to mold the youth of today for a better tomorrow ---Christ , the guy may be 60

 

Motul 300v 20w-50 is what we use for the higher powered engines.

FYI, I dont trust OEM oil pressure gauges. They are notoriously inaccurate, and oftentimes read very low, or super high. Put a manual oil pressure gauge on there and verify the reading.

 

Agree 100% ---Oil gages or Temp Gages-----Both need to be Mechanical and incrimented with tite numbers

 

Use an ester based synthetic oil. Esters do not rely on film stregnth to protect your engine. Esters are polar in nature and are attracted to the metal parts in the engine. At zero oil pressure esters can still protect your engine to some degree. Ester based synthetics FTW!!!

JET

 

I try to use thicker oil, since it offers more protections. But thinner oil offer slightly more power.

 

Guys youve all been awesome, by the way I am 22. Im thinking of trying the 10w-40, I would assume thats thicker. I have the stillen oil cooler just so everyone knows.

I had never gotten an aftermarket oil gauge b/c I heard the mechanical ones, if they break a hose or something can leak into your car?????? Maybe the people were full of it but boy would that stink to have happen.

 

Almost all the Mech Oil gages come with Nylon tubing, Toss it and go down to Napa and get the copper line with the compression fittings. Thoughtful routing will guarantee it never to leak

 

I run 10w40 in the summer months and 10w or i think its 5w30 in the winter. I have almost 40k boosted miles on a stock engine with 65k now. Every 2500-3k miles. My oil press stays between 30-60psi at idle unless im low. Hope that helps.

 

I put it in and I put 10w30 royal purple, it seems to be a little better.

 

Build a separate auxillary powered oil system just for turbo that way you can have the correct oil temp for each application. Measure the temp of oil return line you will see why.......... you need to circulate turbo oil after the engine is shut down...................if you want to prolong turbo rebuild intervals.

Cool down timers don't do an adequate job in many cases.