Highest APS TT Dyno #'s
Originally Posted by JRoC
What kind of other modiications are we talking about here?
Last edited by Julian@MRC; Mar 16, 2007 at 10:16 AM.
Originally Posted by MRC Motorsports
There would be some clearance issues with the motor mounts, some piping modifications needed, and possibly some steerig shaft issues..Most of which will be easily resolved, but far easier than replacing both manifolds and adding external wastegates to a kit that is already on the car. Trust me, we toyed with the Idea of a log style manifold fabbed up to work with external WG's, but we quicky abandoned it as a cost effective feasable solution. we sent the mock up manifold we had to a shop in Chicago and let them have a go at it.
Ah yes..the cracked manifolds that SP has right now...
Originally Posted by KempieZ
I have the turbos from the standard aps kit, but the exhaust manifolds for the extreme one. So I can easily install the external WG. What to do with the internal ones then?
Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
Funny, because I have a standard APS kit and considered the extreme for about .2 seconds before I realized I didn't want their fuel system, and huge overkill intercooler for my 600ish whp street car. I haven't spent a cent on my "external gate" setup for my standard kit yet. I pulled the motor myself and gave the manifolds to a friend that does fab work and he's working up manifolds as we speak which will not cost me anywhere near $700....all I need to do is buy the wastegates and compensate him for his time....total cost should be under $700, and I'll have a lot more flexibility with my boost control than the internal gate APS guys.
Unless everything is mocked up with the motor in the chasis you could end up with manifolds that dont fit correctly or wastegates that interfere with the bellhousing, hard waterline, etc......The labor is where quite a bit of the cost comes into play. Since you did it yourself, you saved $$$$$$.Actual cost for materials for the log manifolds should be around $400 if you use stainless weld L's,stainless head flanges and stainless WG flanges.The labor to build the jigs and assemble the headers is going to vary but if I was to do it, it would be in the $1000 range.It takes alot of time to get it right the first time.The jigs have to be strong to prevent the headers from warping,notching the schedule 40 304SS pipe is a real mother.I think MRCs rough estimate is on par with a typical fabrication shop. Sound like you are getting a heck of a deal

Funny you said huge overkill intercooler...........From our experience in dealing with 5" cores.They are no more effective then a 3.5 or 4" car unless you are going over 140mph. It takes that kind of velocity to push efficiently through a core that thick.
Last edited by TurboTim; Mar 16, 2007 at 11:12 AM.
Originally Posted by TurboTim
Funny you said huge overkill intercooler...........From our experience in dealing with 5" cores.They are no more effective then a 3.5 or 4" car unless you are going over 140mph. It takes that kind of velocity to push efficiently through a core that thick.
Originally Posted by Nismo350ZRT
Ok, since the shop gurus think the ewg conversion is not worthwhile, can you tell us what actuators are the best? Absolutely, without a doubt, 100% certain, answer would be great.
Originally Posted by Nismo350ZRT
Ok, since the shop gurus think the ewg conversion is not worthwhile, can you tell us what actuators are the best? Absolutely, without a doubt, 100% certain, answer would be great.
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
Forge actuator with the yellow spring. They have worked everytime we have used them. Just make sure you use a pre-TB pressure source when installing them, or you will tear the diaphram.
Originally Posted by Nismo350ZRT
I wasn't sure about the Forge actuator because I heard about the tearing but it sounds like you've figured out the problem. Thanks for the info Sharif.
Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
Wish I could take credit, but I just read the instructions included in the box. 

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