Z33 Art Solid Motor Mounts
Just finished them today. My Z33 Art solid motor mounts are made out of 6061-T6511 aluminum with pressed in stepped 304 stainless steel end caps. Uses 7/16" grade 8 hardware.
Logo is the same size and font as the bracket I made. My crank pulley shell is getting machined in 2 weeks and I am having the groove tool EDM'd next week.




Logo is the same size and font as the bracket I made. My crank pulley shell is getting machined in 2 weeks and I am having the groove tool EDM'd next week.
These mounts were specifically for my supercharger project but I could make more if there was enough interest.
Most likely they would be somewhere in the range of $120-$140 shipped in the continental United States. However, I would make only limited amounts if I did.
Most likely they would be somewhere in the range of $120-$140 shipped in the continental United States. However, I would make only limited amounts if I did.
I think you got a good looking product here but pardon my ignorance for this question. Your mounts are no doubt performance oriented but being that there's no bushings of any sort be it rubber or polyurethane, won't you adversely be hurting your car since there's absolutely no dampening capabilities being constructed of aluminum and steel? I know a good set of mounts will keep the engine in place and reduce unnecessary movement thus helping performance but isn't the secondary roll of motor mounts is to reduce vibration to the chassis, cabin, transmission, etc? Don't you loose that without the dampening agent? Won't the vibration and energy transfer put a beating on you and the major conponents of your car everytime the engine torques over? How did you address this in your design?
Originally Posted by JDMFairladyZ33
I think you got a good looking product here but pardon my ignorance for this question. Your mounts are no doubt performance oriented but being that there's no bushings of any sort be it rubber or polyurethane, won't you adversely be hurting your car since there's absolutely no dampening capabilities being constructed of aluminum and steel? I know a good set of mounts will keep the engine in place and reduce unnecessary movement thus helping performance but isn't the secondary roll of motor mounts is to reduce vibration to the chassis, cabin, transmission, etc? Don't you loose that without the dampening agent? Won't the vibration and energy transfer put a beating on you and the major conponents of your car everytime the engine torques over? How did you address this in your design?
Solid mounts remove that comprimise and have their main mission to keep the engine from rotating and wasting energy and you might give up some of the comfort by getting some noise transferred to the cabin but if you are performance driven this is a small sacrifice. Plus the other components in the line have mounts that will absorb some of the vibrations that might be transmitted as the tranny and diff have rubber mounts.
Last edited by westpak; Mar 17, 2007 at 05:23 AM.
Trending Topics
I forgot to mention that they do drop the engine about 3/16" of an inch. However, since they are pressed insert which can be taken out by heating the aluminum core up you could machine the core shorter quite easily to get basically any drop you wanted.
For those who are not familiar with how to etch something like this into the side of cylinder or machine a feature onto a curve of a cylinder it can be done by either a 4th axis in a machining center or a turning center with live tooling in it (tool rotates like in a mill instead of the part rotating).
I used a C-plane contour in Mastercam to wrap the text around the part and simply used a spot drill going .004" deep to etch this.
I used a C-plane contour in Mastercam to wrap the text around the part and simply used a spot drill going .004" deep to etch this.
Sorry if this gets off the topic of your mounts Quamen...they look excellent, as does the rest of your project...EDIT, just realized I missed this thread from a month ago...but my question stands none the less 
Anyways, I have been thinking about the mounts I will be fabricating in the next few weeks for my RB swap for some time now and initially wanted to do solid mounts, but after telling people this in other forums they highly recommend that I don't do that because it would break other components...when I asked, "what components" I never really got a clear cut response. So for the hell of it I decided I would just put an 1" thick high durometer rubber disk between the crossmember and the mount. Is any of this true or should I just do solid mounts? I really wish I could get a good explanation on reasoning behind why or why not.

Anyways, I have been thinking about the mounts I will be fabricating in the next few weeks for my RB swap for some time now and initially wanted to do solid mounts, but after telling people this in other forums they highly recommend that I don't do that because it would break other components...when I asked, "what components" I never really got a clear cut response. So for the hell of it I decided I would just put an 1" thick high durometer rubber disk between the crossmember and the mount. Is any of this true or should I just do solid mounts? I really wish I could get a good explanation on reasoning behind why or why not.
I have not gotten them installed yet as I have been working on other things on the car (have a million lil projects going on at once).
In regards to solid mounts here is my opinion.
Yes it will put extra stress on parts such as the cross member. In your case you are making a new cross member for your RB aren't you? If so then just accomodate for it.
Personally, with an RB swap I would definitly use solid mounts since you may have some tight clearance between the engine and the sheetmetal or the turbo and the strut tower bar.
If you are going to be doing super hard launchs then it could twist your frame if you have enough whp and the axles to make it happen not to mention tires.
I say go with it.
In regards to solid mounts here is my opinion.
Yes it will put extra stress on parts such as the cross member. In your case you are making a new cross member for your RB aren't you? If so then just accomodate for it.
Personally, with an RB swap I would definitly use solid mounts since you may have some tight clearance between the engine and the sheetmetal or the turbo and the strut tower bar.
If you are going to be doing super hard launchs then it could twist your frame if you have enough whp and the axles to make it happen not to mention tires.
I say go with it.
Originally Posted by Quamen
I have not gotten them installed yet as I have been working on other things on the car (have a million lil projects going on at once).
In regards to solid mounts here is my opinion.
Yes it will put extra stress on parts such as the cross member. In your case you are making a new cross member for your RB aren't you? If so then just accomodate for it.
Personally, with an RB swap I would definitly use solid mounts since you may have some tight clearance between the engine and the sheetmetal or the turbo and the strut tower bar.
If you are going to be doing super hard launchs then it could twist your frame if you have enough whp and the axles to make it happen not to mention tires.
I say go with it.
In regards to solid mounts here is my opinion.
Yes it will put extra stress on parts such as the cross member. In your case you are making a new cross member for your RB aren't you? If so then just accomodate for it.
Personally, with an RB swap I would definitly use solid mounts since you may have some tight clearance between the engine and the sheetmetal or the turbo and the strut tower bar.
If you are going to be doing super hard launchs then it could twist your frame if you have enough whp and the axles to make it happen not to mention tires.
I say go with it.
if you are running 15" slicks, dropping the clutch at 7000rpm, and pushing 1000+hp, you may twist the car a little bit. it will go right back into shape though. i would be wairy of using a rubber bushing unless it was an enclosed or molded unit. in my first testing on mine, i used an 1/8" rubber shim and it compressed and got eaten up in a couple months.
the front subframe is mounted to the car with rubber mounts. you bairily can even tell from inside the cabin anything is different. yet, upon clutch engagement, decel, quick throttle blips, you can tell a difference as you have now made the drivetrain more solid and removed some torque loss in the drivetrain, thats it.
i have run solid mounts on nearly every car i have owned for 15 years. never had a motor rip out or frame crack, lol. this is a really simple mod guys, no need to over think it.
btw- nice mounts quamen! what is your wall thickness on the alum?
the front subframe is mounted to the car with rubber mounts. you bairily can even tell from inside the cabin anything is different. yet, upon clutch engagement, decel, quick throttle blips, you can tell a difference as you have now made the drivetrain more solid and removed some torque loss in the drivetrain, thats it.
i have run solid mounts on nearly every car i have owned for 15 years. never had a motor rip out or frame crack, lol. this is a really simple mod guys, no need to over think it.
btw- nice mounts quamen! what is your wall thickness on the alum?
Originally Posted by overZealous1
if you are running 15" slicks, dropping the clutch at 7000rpm, and pushing 1000+hp, you may twist the car a little bit. it will go right back into shape though. i would be wairy of using a rubber bushing unless it was an enclosed or molded unit. in my first testing on mine, i used an 1/8" rubber shim and it compressed and got eaten up in a couple months.
the front subframe is mounted to the car with rubber mounts. you bairily can even tell from inside the cabin anything is different. yet, upon clutch engagement, decel, quick throttle blips, you can tell a difference as you have now made the drivetrain more solid and removed some torque loss in the drivetrain, thats it.
i have run solid mounts on nearly every car i have owned for 15 years. never had a motor rip out or frame crack, lol. this is a really simple mod guys, no need to over think it.
btw- nice mounts quamen! what is your wall thickness on the alum?
the front subframe is mounted to the car with rubber mounts. you bairily can even tell from inside the cabin anything is different. yet, upon clutch engagement, decel, quick throttle blips, you can tell a difference as you have now made the drivetrain more solid and removed some torque loss in the drivetrain, thats it.
i have run solid mounts on nearly every car i have owned for 15 years. never had a motor rip out or frame crack, lol. this is a really simple mod guys, no need to over think it.
btw- nice mounts quamen! what is your wall thickness on the alum?
Thanks for clarifying I just ordered some from www.sgpracing.com, I remember you saying in a thread a while back that you felt a difference.. Correct me if im wrong..
Last edited by Jay'Z; Apr 18, 2007 at 06:58 AM.
Originally Posted by jonb7007
Thanks for clarifying I just ordered some from www.sgpracing.com, I remember you saying in a thread a while back that you felt a difference and your girl said that it felt better too.. Correct me if im wrong..
Originally Posted by overZealous1
if you are running 15" slicks, dropping the clutch at 7000rpm, and pushing 1000+hp, you may twist the car a little bit. it will go right back into shape though. i would be wairy of using a rubber bushing unless it was an enclosed or molded unit. in my first testing on mine, i used an 1/8" rubber shim and it compressed and got eaten up in a couple months.
the front subframe is mounted to the car with rubber mounts. you bairily can even tell from inside the cabin anything is different. yet, upon clutch engagement, decel, quick throttle blips, you can tell a difference as you have now made the drivetrain more solid and removed some torque loss in the drivetrain, thats it.
i have run solid mounts on nearly every car i have owned for 15 years. never had a motor rip out or frame crack, lol. this is a really simple mod guys, no need to over think it.
btw- nice mounts quamen! what is your wall thickness on the alum?
the front subframe is mounted to the car with rubber mounts. you bairily can even tell from inside the cabin anything is different. yet, upon clutch engagement, decel, quick throttle blips, you can tell a difference as you have now made the drivetrain more solid and removed some torque loss in the drivetrain, thats it.
i have run solid mounts on nearly every car i have owned for 15 years. never had a motor rip out or frame crack, lol. this is a really simple mod guys, no need to over think it.
btw- nice mounts quamen! what is your wall thickness on the alum?
Thanks for that info. Do solid mounts need to be engineered much "beefier" to handle any added stresses that would have normally been absorbed by the torquing applied to the rubber isolators?
Quamen, I do not plan on building an entire new crossmember, but rather modifying the stock one. I know I am going to have to cut into it a bit, then reinforce it elsewhere.
quamen , nice looking project. I think in the next few months or so if you have any more sets I would be definately in for picking up a set of these... You should definately think about making more sets.




