p/n 7S250-200
$15 each

the same ones talked about in these threads by BeerViper

http://g35driver.com/forums/showthre...=1#post1311292

https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/187844-vortech-pulley-bearing-noise.html

 

Im with booger on this one. A turbonetics single turbo, or aps single all get around 400whp at 9-10psi. Maybe just a little more. You have no cams no headwork ( You also have parasitic loss due to your crank turning a blower). Stock engine. And there is no way at just 11psi your near 500whp. Your dyno was a crack. At over 450whp you would break the tires loose from a roll in 2nd gear.

 

Take it down the quarter with some et streets. Thats the only numbers that matter...

 

let me bring a few things up

- I do have JWT S1 cams

- I am driving on 295 R-compound tires

- My intake temps are 40 degrees from water/meth injection and so lots of timing was added
even Booger can attest to how much timing has an effect on power since he had to pull 13 degrees timing on his 21.7 psi @6690 rpms dyno run making 383-389whp. If he didn't pull so much timing, he probably would have made a lot more power but probably hurt his engine due to the SS box's limitations with not being able to add the needed fuel beyond a pressure of 16 psi. Instead of pulling timing, I'm adding timing since I also run race gas in addition to water/meth injection and have a way to monitor intake temps via the Fcon


- psi means absolute dick on a supercharged car as far as power goes. What matters is airflow and power. There's lots of ways to make power, but the pressure in the manifold doesn't absolutely reflect final power you make. If I was driving a 7 liter Z06 engine with a big exhaust, my psi would be 5-6 psi even though the vortech would be blowing the same amount of air into the engine. Booger for instance made 383whp at 21.7psi, but there's a lot of other things going on besides just the air pressure.

On a street car that's supposed to last more than a year, IMO you actually don't want the pressure to be super high because that means there's that much more pressure on the internals and that much more likely the spark will get blown out. Pulling lots of timing also raises EGT's and reduces gas mileage, but doesn't put as much pressure in the cylinder during the instant of ignition

Even on turbo cars there's a lot of variance with power and psi due to how much their exhaust and engine can flow. Sharif's car is making 450whp (dyno-dynamics) at 8.3 psi on his car. Sam's car made 630whp at 12 psi. Yet there's tons of people making 400whp at 9 psi. The wastegate will still open at the designated psi, but it has no idea how much air flow volume is actually going into the engine. It's only concerned with pressure



- On my low octane map, it was reved to slightly under 6500 rpms, not 6600 rpms. Had it been reved to 6600, it would probably reach 460whp instead of 455.2whp

- On my high octane map, there's a blip at the end of the run that's possibly a dyno error. Had that blip not been there, it probably would have only done 470whp instead of 477.8whp

- Who cares about parasitic loss when you get results. Superchargers eat up some power to turn the blower, but the end resulting dyno numbers that people get still reflect how their car drives. I don't think the engine is going to melt anymore than if there was a turbo that could send the additional parasitic lost power down the driveshaft instead of into turning a blower


- There's guys on the forum with greddy TT's with 460whp and about the same amount of torque who have claimed they don't lose traction in 2nd gear due to their tire and alignment setup. Even I have stickier tires than some of them and an aftermarket LSD etc. Hell, Alberto said back when he had his 400whp turbo setup on the stock block, he had complete traction in 1st gear on his 285 KDW's. Someone explain THAT to me then why my car isn't making the power my dyno shows. We all know his 1/4 mile times so I don't think his power is put into question but consider that his 1st gear with the 3.5 FD is 47% more aggressive than my 2nd gear with 3.9 FD is...

So far I've only driven my low octane map on the street which has 370.6 tq. Even with the 3.9 final drive multiplying 2nd gear by 10.7% more than the 3.5 FD, that brings the effective torque up to 410.2tq compared to the 3.5 FD. My car is more powerful than when I dynoed it at dynocomp. I could feel that it's more powerful. It's hotter outside now by 20 degrees than when I last dynoed at dynoocmp. Sam's before/after dyno shows what he did, I posted a video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPl_QWJywL4) showing I have traction in 2nd gear, and suddenly people claim my car must not be as strong as it because my R-compound tires just so happen to grip the road in 2nd gear onward. What power/tq level are they thinking I must actually be at then? What if I put on some bigger/stickier 315/35/18 Kumho V710 and got full traction even in 1st gear? Traction is a key issue with me because without it, all the power in the world is useless if you can't use it







there's been lots of vortech people with +450whp

no one claimed BS when AAM tuned DB350z3469's vortech to 460whp 380tq @ 10-11 psi on their dynojet
https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....ht=vortech+AAM

No one claimed BS when Lou posted 470whp 378tq on his vortech @10psi
(he had test pipes though, vs my 2.5 inch AAM cats and dual 2.5 inch exhaust)
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/142771-who-says-vortech-can-t-make-big-power-part-2-a.html

btw on page 3 Lou says someone named John made 505whp with a vortech and intercooler chiller, but I think some of that power was nitrous going into the intake

CP RACING has tuned vortechs past 450whp on their dyno-dynamics dyno. Here's mcduck's 451whp car at 9-9.5 psi:
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/147093-vortech-low-torque-riiiiight-451hp-368tq-dynos-inside.html

-they didn't have a standalone
-they didn't have water/meth injection and race gas

so why am I such a different case?



I plan to dyno my car on Dynocomp's dyno-dynamics dyno which I've been using all along as soon as I fix my worn bearing
in the meantime, how come GTM's other dynos have never been brought into question?
When George@GTM did 518whp on the APS TT, how come no one called BS on his dyno from the same place.
When Nitrouz and Sam posted dynos over 850whp, how come no one said they were BS?

 

great job explaining sentry....haters...u have been owned.....

 

yep.

Eltness hows your final numbers coming?

 

1. I'm with sentry (nice explanation BTW). There is no need to call BS. I don't understand why you would call BS. It doesn't make you look better or more popular, it just makes you sound like a jerk or jealous.

2. It's not the actual number that matters. What matters is, is the car in good working condition, with a good tune, the right parts, and the owner is happy.

 

My intake temps are 40 degrees from water/meth injection and so lots of timing was added
even Booger can attest to how much timing has an effect on power since he had to pull 13 degrees timing on his 21.7 psi @6690 rpms dyno run making 383-389whp. If he didn't pull so much timing, he probably would have made a lot more power but probably hurt his engine due to the SS box's limitations with not being able to add the needed fuel beyond a pressure of 16 psi. Instead of pulling timing, I'm adding timing since I also run race gas in addition to water/meth injection and have a way to monitor intake temps via the Fcon

If you are going to quote me...do it right .
I said I pulled that much timing to keep it safe because the SS box only goes to 16psi . Much more timing could have been put back in to make much more power .

It still remains....YOU ...your self said you have full traction at WOT in 2nd gear with a 3.9 rear end .

It still remains that no matter how wide your tires are and what suspension mods you have . If you cant break loose your tires with 455whp or 477whp and 380trq. in 2nd gear with a 3.9 rear end . Your power level isnt where YOU think it is .

Like I said..with 420whp and 348trq on a Mustang dyno . With a AT5 and 3.5 rear . I couldnt go more than 1/3 throttle...YES.....1/3 throttle in 2nd gear without breaking loose the rear end and fish tailing all over . SO with your wide tires and your suspension mods...I may be able to go to 1/2 throttle to break loose the tires .

IT IS WHAT IT IS !!!!

 

they would be done and i would have a thread but.....after i shredded the blower belt....put on the new one....ran great ...went into boost for like 2 gears shiftin at 6grand just to run the car....my gf friend came over and wanted a ride...ok.....put it in second and thought i would just let the boost kick in....no boost...i thought i blew off a ic pipe or mass air pipe since i have had that happen b4....nope......got it home....my mechanic buddy told me to take off the intake and make sure the compressor is spinning at idle.....ITS NOT!!! i sent it to procharger....callin them tomorrow to see what happened...a gear in there prob blew up!! it sux..i was sooo close...but yea i was at about 430ish hp and 380tq before i shredded the belt(procharger said it was too loose i guess) race tune with 110 octane and ic sprayer tuner said 475hp or more....now i am waiting.....sentry wanna come give me a ride man??!! ILL BUY THE BEERS!!

 

booger with my bf drag radials i was giving full throttle granted shifting at 6k with 430ish rwhp and 380tq and they hook!!(295 width) y r u hating on if he can break the tires free...?? I LIKE TRACTION

 

nice,
your setup is going to kill mine - which consequently means there's going lots of people calling BS once you go past 450whp


hehe, sure man I'd give you or anyone a ride anytime when my bearings are fixed
My Z even has a beer - err I mean cup holder - lol just kidding

I agree, traction is what you want. Otherwise people should just stick with the stock tires if they want to show off how they can do burnouts in 5th gear with their FI power. If someone can spin out the tires in 3rd gear and onward, IMO they seriously need to address that and get some better tires

If you don't have traction, that means you have more power than you do grip and you gotta adjust something to balance it - be it stickier tires and/or less aggressive gearing. I'm opting for sticky tires first and I'm not afraid to run tires that don't last very long because I love how much they improve everything about a sports car. If I wasn't willing to get stickier tires, I'd change my final drive or gear ratios or look into a totally different transmission or simply not bother to make so much power. Sharif IMO has the right idea - he decided to back off the power because he was tired of spinning the tires in the first 3 gears. Not having traction doesn't inspire confidence which is what you want in a sports car

I can live with 1st gear not having 100% traction for now, but I'll try a different tire setup when my current ones wear out. 2nd gear on my car with the 3.9 final drive is BRUTAL. I love it. If I could get 1st gear to hook, that'd be even more awesome.

 

You have an awesome car sentry, with good linear power that is useful. As long as you are happy and your car is running correctly, that is all that matters at the end of the day

Enjoy it!

-George
GT Motorsports

 

thanks man,
I know it's not the fastest thing out there or anything, but it drove so much better with the Fcon, new tune, and the fuel pressure issue fixed that I've just been ecstatic about how it drives. I became more comfortable with it after a couple days and the more I drive it, the more I love it

It was a real bummer when my bearing went bad and I had to garage it because of that. Two $15 parts are keeping me from driving my car at this point...
I can't see how anyone can have a modified car and not have a backup or daily driver car.
It'd be so stressful otherwise relying on a highly modified car to get you to work everyday

 

I cant believe you guys are arguing with the power he has, because his tires dont spin in 2nd gear. That is a really dumb argument, and says nothing about how much power he is making. My car is N/A and is probably barely dynoing 250whp, but you know what, if I nail it right in 2nd gear my tires spin, so my car must be faster then his! Give me a break!

 

Wheelspin is not an indication of horsepower. Too many variables. Enjoy the car.

And eltness, I shredded the small belt that connects to the blower at the track saturday night. Also, since the pulley was spinning and what was left of the belt was not moving, i bored out a groove in the pulley that attaches to the blower too.(i should have cut the belt off for the ride home) So new belt=99 bucks, new cog pulley=107. My tension was loose I guess. I am going to start checking belt tension more often. This was my first belt I shredded, but the belt is about 2 years old also and was loose, so its cool. After I get the lsd paid off and shipped, I will go back to the track and try for that 11.99 pass. I feel like I will be close, but we'll see.

 

Im giving my example of 2nd gear with a 3.5 rear end and a AT5 . Like I said if ........I HAD HIS TIRES AND TRACTION MODS....I may be able to go 1/2 throttle before breaking loose the tires . This is at 420whp and 348trq . Does it take a rocket scientist to figure out that if he cant break loose his tires with as much power he thinks he has...he doesnt have as much power as he thinks ? Im sure his car has good power....but not quite as much as he thinks . At 455whp on a DynoJet....he may get 400-410 on his DD dyno that he normaly dyno's on . The 3.9 rear end should be able to break loose the tires easily...very easily

 

Yeah, riding in Lee's car pretty much convinced me to get a SC

 

well I should be on the dyno about a week or so from now so we'll see. I guarantee the DD dyno will read higher than it has in the past because not only can I feel the car as being faster than it was when I last dynoed there, but the fuel pressure issue and belt slipping has been fixed. Instead of the power plateauing off like before, it continues to climb and that extra 30-40 tq around 6500 rpms can be felt

Previously I was consistently hitting 410-420whp on the DD without a problem

One time the car hit 430 or so when the engine had cooled off and the A/F was a tad lean. I later decided to discard this dyno because IMO dynoing when the engine has cooled off isn't an accurate representation of how the car would normally drive. I also never got a copy of this graph so I couldn't post it.

The outside temp is going to be about 20 degrees hotter than 6 months ago, but the temp inside the shop is usually about 85 degrees so we'll see.

 

you claim 430whp on G35Driver....430 then 420whp on My350Z .

 

sorry, i don't always remember to update every single thread I have or all the signatures I have on every forum I'm a member of - which is like 15 forums



here's my dyno from december 8 (1st and 2nd graphs, dyno 209) and then one from november 29 (3rd graph, dyno 177 before I was tuned).

I never bothered to keep a dyno from last march because it was pretty similar to the december map - was actually making slightly less power up to 4000-4500 rpms or so. Bear in mind I just switched my exhaust from nismo to APS so that was probably shifting the powerband to favor the high end more at the expense of the low end. It wasn't as cold as December though. I actually remember shivering in the shop it was so cold standing near the fans blowing on you.

I will be comparing my new dyno to the march dyno BTW since it is the most recent dyno I have at dynocomp and reflects what GTM was dealing with when the car arrived there

Dynocomp always dynoed in 4th gear.
GTM dynos in 4th gear most of the time except does 5th gear on the last few runs to fine tune things and get a more accurate reading. Sam claims 5th gear pulls have shown slightly better numbers on his dyno than in 4th gear - the before dyno Sam poosted was done in 4th gear




On dyno 209 (december 8, first 2 graphs) the boost went to about 10.3 at 5400 rpms, then fell down to 10 by 6000 and stayed at 10psi until redline. My boost pressure no longer drops like that since my belt doesn't slip anymore, which is another major reason my torque curves started dropping on the dynocomp graphs. Also look at my A/F, it's hardly optimal and too rich up top, but it was the best that could be done on my car given how little control we had at that time

In March the belt slip issue was fixed but the fuel pressure issue became so severe when the boost would increase (in that case was about 12 psi as read on dynocomp's dyno) that the power would fall on its face once you reached 5500-5900 rpms. Fuel pressure at redline was 20-25psi and there was just no way to continue or attempt to tune without first fixing the fuel pressure issue.

But as you can see in my GTM chart, my tq curve doesn't drop off anymore since the fuel pressure issue was fixed. The GTM A/F curve also stays nice and flat, where the previous dynocomp runs would start to lean out from 5400 rpms upward because there was nothing that could be done to fix it without fixing the fuel pressure issue




4th dyno is the before/after dyno at GTM

...and what do you know, the before dyno on the GTM dynojet and the december Dynocomp dyno both start dropping power past 5200 rpms...(see last graph image) the slight wavy variation is because I did change my exhaust, add water/meth injection, and had more psi and we couldn't tune it because everything was inconsistent. We couldn't tune a moving target.
Sam already explained how that spike you see on GTM's before dyno was a dyno spike that didn't show up on his other before dyno in 3rd gear