those r some good tires for sure...there r guys with waaaaaaaayyyy more hp and can hook in 2nd ...my buddies supra has almost 600rwhp and hook no prob on 295 drag radials.... go home booger

 

Just to share my experience with a 420whp 348trq. SC and 3.5 rear gears and a AT5 . 2nd gear is [was ] useless . More than 1/3 throttle and the tires light up . Even with his old numbers [ 430whp - 370trq. ] and his 3.9 rear gears . 2nd gear should be far worse to gain traction than I had . I dont care what tire combo , camber , or any other mod it has set up for traction . That power level and 3.9 in 2nd gear isnt going to hold at 1/3 throttle or more .

Now ...with slicks and a track with plenty of VHT down . He may gain traction sooner . But he doesnt run slick nor drag radials .

This is just MPO of course . LOL

 

350zDCalb..has had simular experience...so you gonna tell him to go home to ????

 

Im sure his car is making plenty of power . Ive never said it didnt . How much is in question if at WOT with 3.9 gears in 2nd it doesnt light up the tires .

 

yeah VRT used to race with pirelli corsas along with the other brands they've used. They're the ones who recommended these tires to me because they don't need much heat to make them sticky. Also even though they have a treadwear of 60, they said they wouldn't be suprised if they lasted 8000 miles with normal driving on the street.

They're not too bad even though mine are like 2 years old and kinda pissed me off that I didn't read the dates on the tires until I already mounted them. I just assumed since they were competition tires that they'd be fairly new and not sitting on a shelf forever before being sold. Tire rack gave me a whole $100 back though.

They were a nice step up in grip coming from PS2's in the same size (295/35/18) and was immediately felt driving on them for the first time, but they've gotten too expensive and some of the sizes have been discontinued so next time I'll have to switch to something else.

 

Track tires are just like drag radials and slicks . They need to be heated up quite a bit to get sticky .That means , doing a couple laps at high speed around corners and or doing a good burn out . Sentry mentions nothing about doing a burn out before he tried his WOT 2nd gear run and getting traction .
And Sentry...I know you dont have me on ignore..you couldnt handle not reading what I post about you .

 

I have a new video up. It's not that great, but it's all I have right now. Just a couple 2nd gear pulls from 19mph at 2200rpms to redline and then from about 26mph at 3000 rpms to redline. You can really see the rpms speed up because of the vortech building boost. 2nd gear goes up to around 55-56mph at 6600rpm with the 6MT with 3.9 FD and 295/35/18 tires which are smaller diameter than stock. This was on my 455whp map with a half tank of gas and nothing in the rear hatch area other than my battery -and no spare tire. It was about 80 degrees outside

video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wPl_QWJywL4

you can plainly see in the first run that the rpms go smoothly all the way to redline. If the tires lost traction you'd not only see it on the tachometer by the rpms suddenly shooting up, but you'd also hear the tires chirping or studdering (windows were down). The 2nd take really turned out crappy and was hard to steady the camera. I was thinking of not including it at all, but you can at least listen to what's going on and there's no studdering or tire chirping. I was trying to show the transmission was in 2nd gear when I moved the camera, but you couldn't make it out at night

next time I'll have my wife (who doesn't weigh much) video the run with my 477whp race gas map and I'll do a 1st, 2nd, 3rd gear pull where I can actually shift faster and not have to steady a camera

 

Wow..you can see the rpm's go right up with the 3.9 rear , but only gain like 20mph . Hard to believe you dont have enough power to bust loose them tires in 2nd gear and 3.9 rear end...bummer dude !

 

edit:yeah going 25-54mph in 1.8 seconds all in 2nd gear 3000-6600 rpms while being out of the powerband/high boost for the first half of the pull...guess that's pretty slow
/edit


last night my car started making this exact sound that BeerViper had with the bad jackshaft bearings
http://videos.streetfire.net/search/...bcfd728006.htm

it's the exact same sound, though not nearly as loud. And it doesn't seem to get louder as I rev higher unlike some other videos I've seen of members with the same problem, but I'm going to be careful just the same

At first I also thought it was coming from the top most grooved idler pulley, but after reading his threads, I probably have to mess with the jackshaft bearings...great

I also need to get a chip in my windshield fixed and a battery cut off switch for my battery since it was relocated in order to run the 1/4 mile and pass tech inspection

 

Damn man, that sounds terrible. Hope it's a quick and easy fix.

 

From that vid, that's different noise than when I had the problem with my jackshaft. It's not the most difficult of fixes, just a bit time consuming and delicate. Vortech was all zero help in getting the parts ordered.

 

that video isn't my car, that's BeerViper's. My car sounds kinda like that only not anywhere near as loud. It also doesn't seem to get noisier as the revs go up

 

would you recommend the HKS hi power dual exhaust for a vortech?

 

here's a quick video of what my car is sounding like. Has about 5000 miles with the vortech on it. Car itself has around 25k miles


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mmCHrEAb7pA




sure
a bunch of people have had good results with it

 

He removed the cog belt which might make your's sound a little louder if you removed your's..

 

just an update since some people were expecting a dyno etc by now

I just got the vortech bearings in the mail yesterday. On workdays I need my wife to drive along with me to Dynocomp in a seperate car to drop my Z off but she's really sick right now - almost 102 degree fever

I found out that in order to run on any of the drag strips around here that I need a battery cut off switch installed since I relocated my battery to the rear. They say the switch must be visible from the rear of the car without having to get down on the ground and clearly labeled ON and OFF. My first thought is that it needs to go under the car in the rear, but with the APS muffler (see picture), I don't know how I can really mount it yet.

The guy at Firebird Raceway said some people have it mounted on a hinge that they flip down when they race. Not sure how I'd set that up. There might be room to the side of the exhaust somehow though. I really don't want some big ugly switch hanging out the back of my car that can turn my power off. Some switches are lockable though. I'm kinda irritated about the whole thing. I also need to fill a crack in my windshield to run on the track

Anyway, some other things I'm looking into having done at Dynocomp are removing my front reflectors and using the holes as air vents. I'll see if I can get my power steering cooler relocated to the driver side next to the reflector hole. right now it's above the intercooler next to my intake. The passenger reflector hole will let some heat from the oil cooler escape as well as let me physically be able to see how full my water/meth is in the water tank

I'm also putting in the ARC undertray, my racing seat, and I need to find an optima battery because I'm just not getting enough voltage out of my small Hawker battery

I'll start a new thread when everything is finished and I get a new comparison dyno at Dynocomp...

 

Goodluck man

 

Nice numbers! That is one smoothe curve!

 

thanks guys

here's a couple more pics - car was wet about to get washed

 

What bearings did you decide to replace?