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Old 05-21-2020, 10:34 PM
  #2261  
OldManZ350
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Originally Posted by acelow13
So even if i got the tuner kit it would still have the carb # on the blower?
YES
Old 05-22-2020, 10:15 AM
  #2262  
acelow13
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Originally Posted by OldManZ350
YES
dont mean to be annoying but just trying to clear the air bc i will be taking the plunge in no time lol....so if i got the tuner kit all i would need is the uprev license, fuel injectors the fuel pump forsure but does the tuner kit come with the uprev MAF sensor, and spark plugs? and if it comes with a pulley is it the 3.12?
Old 05-22-2020, 10:45 AM
  #2263  
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Originally Posted by acelow13
dont mean to be annoying but just trying to clear the air bc i will be taking the plunge in no time lol....so if i got the tuner kit all i would need is the uprev license, fuel injectors the fuel pump forsure but does the tuner kit come with the uprev MAF sensor, and spark plugs? and if it comes with a pulley is it the 3.12?
Look at this complete kit from z1 vortech kit You can choose to go with that, or see what else you need. If I was doing it from scratch again, I would call Z1 and get a kit tailored to my needs. It might be a good idea to start a more in depth discussion, to go over your mods (if any) and your goals. Do that here or with a phone call.. take it easy.
Old 05-23-2020, 08:11 AM
  #2264  
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Originally Posted by acelow13
dont mean to be annoying but just trying to clear the air bc i will be taking the plunge in no time lol....so if i got the tuner kit all i would need is the uprev license, fuel injectors the fuel pump forsure but does the tuner kit come with the uprev MAF sensor, and spark plugs? and if it comes with a pulley is it the 3.12?
For carb compliance, I believe they only give you the 3.33 pulley.

The tuner kit does not include an uprev maf or spark plugs. Tuner kits are basically bare bone kits where you supply the supporting modifications.
Old 06-06-2020, 02:35 PM
  #2265  
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Default New belt

Since were talking pulleys here, I thought I'd throw my hat into the ring. I recently bought a 2.87" pulley for my tuner T-Trim setup. I provided my installers with what I thought was the correct belt for a non-rev-up motor, a 93" Gates belt which my installers said was way too long. They wound up installing a Gates K060775 belt which I think is about 78-1/16" or so. I'm really confused. I'm going to upload a start up clip to see if you all can hear some funky belt issues going one here or not. I just hope some of you Vortech gurus can chime in here. I'm all ears...(edit) Obviously despite my best efforts I couldn't successfully up load the sound clip. sorry.

Last edited by kenp60; 06-28-2020 at 01:45 PM. Reason: new video
Old 06-06-2020, 08:34 PM
  #2266  
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Easiest way to do that is upload to YT, copy/paste link here.
Old 12-24-2020, 12:16 PM
  #2267  
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So much great information on this thread, about to order a v3 sci tuner kit for my 04

I have test pipes
Z1 single exit
Z1 Y pipe
Z1 Plenum spacer

As I am getting the tuner kit I was thinking of getting Deatschwerks 1000cc and Deatschwerks 255 (or 300) fuel pump as I have an E85 gas station right across my house, I do not plan on a fuel return kit

I am shooting for 400ish+ whp (want to keep torque under 380)

I am getting an uprev maf and getting it tuned on uprev, would the stock pulley get me to my goal or should I go with the 3.12? I don't really want to jump to the 2.87 as I want to keep it as safe as possible on the stock block
Old 12-24-2020, 06:25 PM
  #2268  
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Originally Posted by Davilas24
So much great information on this thread, about to order a v3 sci tuner kit for my 04

I have test pipes
Z1 single exit
Z1 Y pipe
Z1 Plenum spacer

As I am getting the tuner kit I was thinking of getting Deatschwerks 1000cc and Deatschwerks 255 (or 300) fuel pump as I have an E85 gas station right across my house, I do not plan on a fuel return kit

I am shooting for 400ish+ whp (want to keep torque under 380)

I am getting an uprev maf and getting it tuned on uprev, would the stock pulley get me to my goal or should I go with the 3.12? I don't really want to jump to the 2.87 as I want to keep it as safe as possible on the stock block
Your fuel pump is going to have a real rough time with E85 on a returnless setup. I’d just stick with 93/3.12 for the safe side.
Old 12-24-2020, 07:30 PM
  #2269  
Davilas24
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Originally Posted by 0taku
Your fuel pump is going to have a real rough time with E85 on a returnless setup. I’d just stick with 93/3.12 for the safe side.
I'm in socal so if I don't go e85 I'm stuck with 91, I don't think I will hit the 400 mark on 91
Old 12-25-2020, 03:28 PM
  #2270  
Scojoturner
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Originally Posted by Davilas24
I'm in socal so if I don't go e85 I'm stuck with 91, I don't think I will hit the 400 mark on 91
I work in Covina and have a Vortech on 91 with Water/Methanol as of last week. I was knocking on our 91 crap gas at 373 whp
Old 12-25-2020, 04:48 PM
  #2271  
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Originally Posted by Scojoturner
I work in Covina and have a Vortech on 91 with Water/Methanol as of last week. I was knocking on our 91 crap gas at 373 whp
Yea I figured with our **** 91 there's no way I hit the goal on pump,, I literally half a block from an e85 station
Old 12-25-2020, 05:21 PM
  #2272  
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Originally Posted by Davilas24
Yea I figured with our **** 91 there's no way I hit the goal on pump,, I literally half a block from an e85 station
I wouldn’t recommend staying returnless then if you plan on boosting with e85. Especially since you’re on an Uprev with no flexfuel support. Heck, a 255 might not even be enough.
Old 12-25-2020, 05:30 PM
  #2273  
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Originally Posted by 0taku
I wouldn’t recommend staying returnless then if you plan on boosting with e85. Especially since you’re on an Uprev with no flexfuel support. Heck, a 255 might not even be enough.
I am actually going to get the Deatschwerks 300 that flows 340, I am gonna tune with seb at Specialty-Z, he recommended fuel return but he said it is not mandatory. I trust him to get my tune dialed in.

I want to stay away from the fuel return to avoid the cost yes but also to avoid the extra work of having to go back to stock should I need to in case I need to pass an inspection or smog. Seeing a FPR gauge in an engine bay is a dead give away
Old 12-25-2020, 07:01 PM
  #2274  
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Originally Posted by kenp60
Since were talking pulleys here, I thought I'd throw my hat into the ring. I recently bought a 2.87" pulley for my tuner T-Trim setup. I provided my installers with what I thought was the correct belt for a non-rev-up motor, a 93" Gates belt which my installers said was way too long. They wound up installing a Gates K060775 belt which I think is about 78-1/16" or so. I'm really confused. I'm going to upload a start up clip to see if you all can hear some funky belt issues going one here or not. I just hope some of you Vortech gurus can chime in here. I'm all ears...(edit) Obviously despite my best efforts I couldn't successfully up load the sound clip. sorry.
Old post, but you had the old style layout belt. The newer layout has one less pulley and thus a shorter belt.
Old 11-27-2021, 03:31 PM
  #2275  
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Just bumping this awesome thread. Just got back from logging my SC setup, and making 11.3 psi up top smoothly with the 3.12 pulley. I know boost doesn't really matter that much, but it pulls hard (well to me lol). I was knocking around 5800-6K on 91 octane (1-2 counts). Added some royal purple octane booster and it cleared that up and it pulls harder to redline which is only 6500 rpms for safety. The car let me know really quick that I need supporting mods.... upgraded BRAKES, and wider rear tires. But I can't be happier with the old car. It honestly feels like how the car should have been from factory even thought its 3 times louder with the whistling. :-)

My thoughts on the Vortech....
-Fast as hell on the street compared to most cars. It's kinda dangerous to tune on the road IMO because to see the full potential you have to wind it up. It can get you in trouble quickly.
- Very loud... But I really like the sound. It prob wouldn't seem so loud in a hard top Z or G, but in my roadster the stereo is an afterthought now.
- Get Tim's strut brace.... I have no belt slip that I can detect so far.
- Get 1050 injectors min with a return kit. I'm already out of injector with EV650s. (80% duty cycle on 91 octane). I wanted to run E85, but that will have to wait.
- Make sure you run a 3.5 or 4 inch intake. I was running a 3 inch and it literally pulled 25-30 hp because the blower couldn't breath. It was my mistake for not measuring all the pie cuts.

Overall, I'm in love with my car again. But my next project will be turbocharged and for the track only. I personally feel that a SC is best for me as a street/ daily type car. Lastly I want to say thank you for everyone who contributed to this thread and answered my questions on PMs. You really helped keep me from making costly mistakes on this build.

Dee


The following 3 users liked this post by gtzero:
MeSs (12-14-2021), OldManZ350 (12-02-2021), Timboj (11-30-2021)
Old 12-14-2021, 02:05 AM
  #2276  
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I'm using a Koyo Hyper V-Core radiator, stock fan shroud and stock fans. I have a few mm space between the intercooler-pipe and fan shroud/main pulley.
Is there any way to get more space? Denting the intercooler-piping should help a little, but maybe give negative effect power?
Mishimoto fan shroud with fans doesn't move as much air as the stock one?
VQ35DE, 03..
Old 12-20-2021, 01:30 AM
  #2277  
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Originally Posted by MeSs
I'm using a Koyo Hyper V-Core radiator, stock fan shroud and stock fans. I have a few mm space between the intercooler-pipe and fan shroud/main pulley.
Is there any way to get more space? Denting the intercooler-piping should help a little, but maybe give negative effect power?
Mishimoto fan shroud with fans doesn't move as much air as the stock one?
VQ35DE, 03..
I run a mishimoto fan shroud with one of the stock fans removed. Then I added a bigger mishi race fan on the passenger side. I believe your rad is bigger than the usual Koyo people run with the SC. So you may need the slim fan shroud if you don’t want to buy a new rad. I am also using a larger rad. Skunk2 Alpha rad. If you go with the slim shroud I would recommend upgrading at least one of the fans. The slim stock setup is not as good as our stock fan and shroud. I can send pics of my setup if you are interested. Just email me gtzero22@yahoo.com.


Dee
Old 11-21-2022, 01:59 AM
  #2278  
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gtzero, sorry I haven't replied you. Your setup looks great. my e-mail is marius.skinnes (at) gmail.com. Would love to see more pictures.
I'm still running the Koyo with the stock fans, my water temperature is rising fast when "hooning", even with a vented hood. Maybe time for new head gaskets.

This has been my second supercharged season with 364hp/467nm at the wheels. Really happy with the car.

1:
The DMV in Norway can approve my supercharger build, as long as I get all the CARB bits.
I need to buy the FMU - Fuel management unit, the vortech fuel pump and the engine ignition controller. All from the CARB kit. Does anyone have this for sale?

2:
I need to rebuild my supercharger, it's sweating oil and dripping very slow.
I would like to replace the impeller as well, since it was a used unit.
Is this doable to do myself?
Old 04-30-2023, 03:07 AM
  #2279  
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Last year I ran Vortech V2 SQ with Haltech Platinum PRO Plug-in ECU, 750cc injectors, Walbro 400lph, fuel return line kit and Mishimoto J-line intercooler. I made 364whp. Very happy with this setup.

​​​​​​As I mentioned earlier, the only way to get an approved supercharger on the 350Z in Norway is to use the full CARB kit, so I've sourced all the parts and fitted them like the manual says.
I get check engine light, VDC light and the slip light.
The car revs slowly. Anyone know why this happens?

This winter I've also replaced camshaft sensors and brake disc's.
Old 04-30-2023, 06:42 AM
  #2280  
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Originally Posted by MeSs
Last year I ran Vortech V2 SQ with Haltech Platinum PRO Plug-in ECU, 750cc injectors, Walbro 400lph, fuel return line kit and Mishimoto J-line intercooler. I made 364whp. Very happy with this setup.

​​​​​​As I mentioned earlier, the only way to get an approved supercharger on the 350Z in Norway is to use the full CARB kit, so I've sourced all the parts and fitted them like the manual says.
I get check engine light, VDC light and the slip light.
The car revs slowly. Anyone know why this happens?

This winter I've also replaced camshaft sensors and brake disc's.
Did you use OEM Nissan sensors? It's been proven that the ECM doesn't like aftermarket sensors. Use OEM. Also, check the codes and make sure you don't also need a crank sensor.


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