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Wow! You are the guy that asked how to quiet the BOV..... In that thread I told you.
Please read your thread and mine.
I tried the set up you described and it still had a VERY shrill sound (but reduced by about 25%) occasionally under vacuum
vortech told me they changed the design in 2014 and yes its a noise we will have to live with.
I am now using the Bosch style Recycling valve (open to atmosphere) and its dead quiet... its bypassing at vacuum.
when i shift when over 3000 it makes a very subtle whoosh so its very stealthy.
vacuum readings are normal at 80 mph.
Vortech sells this and says its ok till 12 psi or so.
thanks for your help and input OldManZ350 it was helpful
Map A - Fuel - SS is adding fuel in non boosted low RPM cells
I suspect its because vacuum on the FMU is dropping fuel pressure
and adding again up higher, for some reason in boost, where the base kit wont use it
[Map B - timing - it seems that there isn't any timing pulled by SS till 8.5 psi at 5000
am I reading these correctly ?
I suspect you're right. Adding fuel above where most users would push the kit is likely a safety measure, since Paris Hilton maps (rich and retarded) tend to be safer than the alternative, though too rich can still induce detonation.
What's interesting to me is that it doesn't pull timing based on boost level but by one level across the board. I know the VQ is pretty detonation resistant (at least in my experience), but I wonder how these numbers look relative to MBT. Maybe someone who's had the SS box tuned on a dyno could compare? Or even Tim?
Question for me is how do I translate this to an uprev timing map? Stupid burn time metric...
First of all, The SplitSecond Box TUNE that comes with the Vortech Kit is Terrible.
There will be places you need to add fuel down low in VAC. This is because the Factory tune is not perfect either.
There will be places on this Fuel Map where the Motor will never go. In that case it's easyer to make a full Row or Collum the same Value to keep the MAP simple and easyer to Read.
Vortech adds Fuel in low RPM & VAC because the is the Area of the MAP that is effected during START. Again, they spent no time and did a Terrible Job. The FMU does not reduce Fuel Pressure, it Raises it.
As you can see on the Map, most of the Values are 10 (neutral) then they made changes above 10psi where a stock Vortech kit will never be. Perhaps they were trying to cover the *** for people that install smaller serp pulleys.
They did a Worse Job with the Timing Map. The greatest change in value you should have in the Timing Map is .5* from Cell to Cell.
Do not use this Tune. Start New maps.
Read this 10 times, it is very very helpful wen tuning with the R4 Software from Split Second.
First of all, The SplitSecond Box TUNE that comes with the Vortech Kit is Terrible.
There will be places you need to add fuel down low in VAC. This is because the Factory tune is not perfect either.
There will be places on this Fuel Map where the Motor will never go. In that case it's easyer to make a full Row or Collum the same Value to keep the MAP simple and easyer to Read.
Vortech adds Fuel in low RPM & VAC because the is the Area of the MAP that is effected during START. Again, they spent no time and did a Terrible Job. The FMU does not reduce Fuel Pressure, it Raises it.
As you can see on the Map, most of the Values are 10 (neutral) then they made changes above 10psi where a stock Vortech kit will never be. Perhaps they were trying to cover the *** for people that install smaller serp pulleys.
They did a Worse Job with the Timing Map. The greatest change in value you should have in the Timing Map is .5* from Cell to Cell.
Do not use this Tune. Start New maps.
Read this 10 times, it is very very helpful wen tuning with the R4 Software from Split Second.
Tell everyone what you are doing with your car. I would need this info to help you more.
Have you installed your Vortech Kit yet?
TimRod
thanks for your reply
I already have downloaded that document and have read it a few times
I have the kit installed and have put about 200 miles on it. Its time to tighten the belt lol. Runs well and pulls nicely. The only changes ive made are:
I located the aux pump and FMU high and dry to the passenger side shock tower
a friend reset my idle to 850 to get rid of the rattle at idle with UPREV.
apparently there are a few things you can change with uprev tuner that dont require a license or reflash and the idle speed is one of them
I have a Devils Own progressive water/alky injection from my prev FI project car and I plan on installing it soon (before tuning)
i already purchased the 3.12 pulley (not installed) and im working on a dual 2.5 stainless exhaust system thats relatively quiet.
next step is to get a wideband setup and do some mild street tuning
my goal is to have a safe 400bhp
i already purchased the 3.12 pulley (not installed) and im working on a dual 2.5 stainless exhaust system thats relatively quiet.
You did a very nice job mounting the FMU and Pump up high.
You can make 400whp with the 3.12 pulley. The ***** is with the Stock Factory fuel system (stock injectors and stock intank fuel pump) and the addition of the Vortech FMU and AUX pump, to get enough fuel to the motor you will have Sky High Fuel Presure and very hard to tune properly. Just remember, You are at the Limits for this type of system.
Last edited by OldManZ350; 06-07-2015 at 09:46 AM.
You did a very nice job mounting the FMU and Pump up high.
You can make 400whp with the 3.12 pulley. The ***** is with the Stock Factory fuel system (stock injectors and stock intank fuel pump) and the addition of the Vortech FMU and AUX pump, to get enough fuel to the motor you will have Sky High Fuel Presure and very hard to tune properly. Just remember, You are at the Limits for this type of system.
thanks !
yes i suspect I will eventually need to do the fuel system
thanks again for your input
You also need to change to "Programable Signal Calibrator"
Don't know how your base settings got messed up.
Ya, that's better. I did not know what the hell vortech was doing and did not thing to ask you about base settings.
The way that Vortech set up their Map is in Rows for the most part.
If you set up your tune in columns (by Boost) you will have mush more control over the tune.
What I mean instead of changing the row like Vortech did, change the Column, but for the most part you can change the whole column to the same Value, because the motor may only see 1 or 2 cells in that whole column.
I have no way to show up as I'm on a Apple and R4 is on my pc, sorry
Last edited by OldManZ350; 07-19-2015 at 07:31 AM.
Also, if you upload a tune from the ss box, the base settings will always change every time and you'll need to correct them. Why, I don't know.....
So instead , only down load files from your lap top to the ss box and it will be fine. Just make sure all your setting are correct. Check the all......
Also, if you upload a tune from the ss box, the base settings will always change every time and you'll need to correct them. Why, I don't know.....
So instead , only down load files from your lap top to the ss box and it will be fine. Just make sure all your setting are correct. Check the all......
TimRod
this exactly what i expected....
I tried uploading a file with some BS settings at 11000 rpm to see what would happen to the file when I downloaded again. it went back to the weird settings.
on the Syclone/Typhon board we traded .bin files all the time
is there a library of sorts for the SS box and various tunes ?
Has anyone gotten the Mishimoto Rad and Fan Shroud to fit with the Vortech on a DE?
I've tried and tried, but I really don't think it's going to fit...
Never mind... It fits, just took a bit of wiggling. I ended up cutting off the mount for the shroud on the rad on the lower passenger side to clear the pipe.
When we put the car together last week when I couldn't get it to fit we were in a mad rush to get it done for a show and I didn't give it enough time trying to fit it...
Next question I have, how do I figure out what trim my blower is? It's an older kit that came off of a low-milage show car. All I'm seeing on the blower is that it's a V-2 and a serial number.
Never mind... It fits, just took a bit of wiggling. I ended up cutting off the mount for the shroud on the rad on the lower passenger side to clear the pipe.
When we put the car together last week when I couldn't get it to fit we were in a mad rush to get it done for a show and I didn't give it enough time trying to fit it...
Next question I have, how do I figure out what trim my blower is? It's an older kit that came off of a low-milage show car. All I'm seeing on the blower is that it's a V-2 and a serial number.
So, I managed to get a decent amount of coolant on my belt. Figured the car had cooled off enough and opened the rad cap, not the case, was still under pressure..
Anyways, coolant on belt = terrible belt squeal when I start the car. I wiped as much off as I could get to and was advised to spray the belt with brake clean while the car was running to get the rest off.
As far as I'm concerned the belt is pretty tight, and I don't feel comfortable tightening it more.
I still get belt squeal for about 10 seconds about 75% of the time when I start the car and also occasionally when my air compressors kick on (alternator becomes loaded).
So, pretty sure this belt is garbage now, or is there any way to clean it or save it?
04-21-2015, 09:03 AM
