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I'm not worried about anything outside the Vortech head unit (and I'm not exactly losing sleep over this, it's just something I've wondered about).
We're in agreement: In the 20 years I've been driving, I've driven everything I've owned that way as well. Heel-toe was one of the first things my dad taught me, and was reinforced with a Skip Barber 3 day school back in y2k- but there we had to double clutch too. It is just the natural way a competent driver operates a manual transmission.
My thought is on the stress on the impeller bearings that accompanies rapid changes in angular velocity. Large acceleration values involve large force values. Like meanz said, it's probably nothing to worry about and vortech just says that to cover their asses. Still makes me not want to even try a 2-step though.
I will say that I like how the car actually drives much like it has a light flywheel with the Vortech. It will rev faster/blip easier AND the S/C drag slows the engine down between shifts much faster.
Google "heel-toe downshifting" to gain a better understanding of what we're talking about here.
lol then say that lol
I was an instructor at
Porsche Advanced Drivers School
Mercedes Driving Excellence
Audi Experience
and many sponsored track days
I overspun my blower a good bit before my engine build and even more after the build. Never had an issue with bearings or anything like that. I'll now be over spinning my new TI trim and seeing what it can do.
thanks for ur input man. i'll find out for myself soon haha
Everyone else in the thread understood what I meant? I suppose that's the downfall of reading things in text online- context doesn't always come through. I'll try to be more clear next time.
Originally Posted by ge35es
ever tried left foot braking ?
I have, in a Formula SAE car and in my old MR2, since both could be driven easily without the clutch. I personally found little to no benefit in it because I can already transition from WOT to full brake pressure with my right foot faster than the car can transfer weight, but I understand some drivers prefer it. It can be fun.
I drive a 93 Mustang GT with a SQ-trim Vortech... ok ok so sue me! But i also have a Nissan Altima Coupe! haha! I stumbled onto this Vortech Faq and i must say that this is the best Vortech FAQ i have seen on the internet! 8 years running, 111+ pages and still growing. Amazing!
At the risk of duplicating what has already been written (no time to read 111+ pages of messages), i'd like to add a few things to this FAQ from experience:
- no matter how old/young your Z is, when adding a supercharger- change your head gasket with a quality brand! Fel-pro loc-wire is popular in the Mustang world. If you think your head gasket is good... it's not. Trust me. You will save yourself a ton of $$$ and headache.
- Replace your oil pan gasket, seals and whatever more with a quality brand. If you think your oil seals & gaskets are good... they are not. More boost; more power; more pressure; *pop*. I bought my Stang in 93 and never had so much of the slightest oil leak until i had my Vortech installed in 2002.
- Forged pistons and internals! I don't know if the Z already has forged internals but my Stang came with those crappy hyperneurotic (however the hell you spell that word) pistons which are soft. These pistons will eventually break. Forged internals will indeed save you heartache & break.
- If your Vortech head unit breaks or is in need of servicing, send it to Vortech. You can get by if you are an experienced mechanic and fix it yourself. But, send it to Vortech. It's pricey and all but if you want it done right send it to Vortech. Hell, they made that damn thing! I sent mine twice to Vortech and it came back running as smooth as silk, each time. Vortech has a "minor" and "major" type of servicing both of which they will replace the bearings, seals and stuff like that. Check their website for the details.
- Lastly, which all the added power you will be making, you have to take into account your engine block! It is hella easy to crack that block will all the added pressure.
That's all. I'm sure you guys already know what i'm saying but it would not hurt to review.
I've had my Vortech 13 or so years and i'm pushing 578 rwhp on my last dynotune back in October. I've driven in cars equipped with Kenne Belle, ATI, Paxton & a few others. IMHO, Vortech's supercharger is the most fun to have and the easiest to maintain.
I drive a 93 Mustang GT with a SQ-trim Vortech... ok ok so sue me! But i also have a Nissan Altima Coupe! haha! I stumbled onto this Vortech Faq and i must say that this is the best Vortech FAQ i have seen on the internet! 8 years running, 111+ pages and still growing. Amazing!
At the risk of duplicating what has already been written (no time to read 111+ pages of messages), i'd like to add a few things to this FAQ from experience:
- no matter how old/young your Z is, when adding a supercharger- change your head gasket with a quality brand! Fel-pro loc-wire is popular in the Mustang world. If you think your head gasket is good... it's not. Trust me. You will save yourself a ton of $$$ and headache.
No reason to do this. Head gasket is not a trivial job
- Replace your oil pan gasket, seals and whatever more with a quality brand. If you think your oil seals & gaskets are good... they are not. More boost; more power; more pressure; *pop*. I bought my Stang in 93 and never had so much of the slightest oil leak until i had my Vortech installed in 2002.
no oil pan gasket on our cars. No reason to open then pan unless you tap the block for a oil return
- Forged pistons and internals! I don't know if the Z already has forged internals but my Stang came with those crappy hyperneurotic (however the hell you spell that word) pistons which are soft. These pistons will eventually break. Forged internals will indeed save you heartache & break.
no reason to build unless pushing well over 450ft-lbs of trq
- If your Vortech head unit breaks or is in need of servicing, send it to Vortech. You can get by if you are an experienced mechanic and fix it yourself. But, send it to Vortech. It's pricey and all but if you want it done right send it to Vortech. Hell, they made that damn thing! I sent mine twice to Vortech and it came back running as smooth as silk, each time. Vortech has a "minor" and "major" type of servicing both of which they will replace the bearings, seals and stuff like that. Check their website for the details.
I always sent to Vortech, but there are other options
- Lastly, which all the added power you will be making, you have to take into account your engine block! It is hella easy to crack that block will all the added pressure.
the block is not hella easy to crack
That's all. I'm sure you guys already know what i'm saying but it would not hurt to review.
it does hurt when everything you said is not relevant to the VQ
I've had my Vortech 13 or so years and i'm pushing 578 rwhp on my last dynotune back in October. I've driven in cars equipped with Kenne Belle, ATI, Paxton & a few others. IMHO, Vortech's supercharger is the most fun to have and the easiest to maintain.
Quick question. I've got the upgraded single piece upper charge pipe where the MAF is mounted that is larger diameter (iirc 3"). My understanding is the larger diameter MAF housing has the same effect as a MAF that can read to a higher range.
My question is, with my setup and goals should I be good with the larger MAF housing or should I purchase an UPREV MAF as well?
Setup:
DE Motor
V2 Blower
2.87 pulley
600CC Injectors with CJM FRS & upgraded pump
Larger Treadstone intercooler
AEM Water Meth
Quick question. I've got the upgraded single piece upper charge pipe where the MAF is mounted that is larger diameter (iirc 3"). My understanding is the larger diameter MAF housing has the same effect as a MAF that can read to a higher range.
My question is, with my setup and goals should I be good with the larger MAF housing or should I purchase an UPREV MAF as well?
Setup:
DE Motor
V2 Blower
2.87 pulley
600CC Injectors with CJM FRS & upgraded pump
Larger Treadstone intercooler
AEM Water Meth
Hey I saw some guys in past builds getting tuner kits for under $4k. Are there any more vendors on here that sell it for that cheap anymore? Cheapest I have found so far is just over $5k.
(For the DE kit)
Just completed my install
everything seems fine till i go for some boost...
I get a check engine light
and it goes into limp home mode (no throttle )
I let the car sit for 15 min then restarted... throttle is fine
check engine light is still on.
for now i will remove the cog belt and remove and block off the vacuum line to the blow off valve
any ideas ? no i dont have a code reader.
ive been driving it for weeks with only the SS box and fuel system installed (but not the supercharger etc) and it ran fine.
Sounds like to Tune is so out of wack, it's going inot limp mode.
turns out it was a throttle body issue... totally unrelated to the vortech install
we checked the connections and drove around after we cleared the code
i reinstalled the cog belt and the vac line to the BPV and blasted around for 2 hrs... no issues except my poor snow tires had trouble holding grip
Next Issue
the small coolant hose that runs from low on the drivers side, across the engine
behind the vortech bracket, it right up against the bottom edge and curves
around and rubs on the lower small mounting bold for the vortech bracket.
If I run the hose completely behind the bracket it bend severly and is almsost pinched off
see page 6 of the installation manual
" H. Make sure that the coolant hose is routed in the groove on the back of the supercharger mounting plate. "
there is no grove behind the bracket at this point... it terminates near the center of the bracket on an angle.
Take another piece of hose about 3" long, about the same diameter, then cut one side long ways. You can then open it up and rap it around the hose where it's rubbing the bolt. Put a couple of wire ties around it to hold it in place.
Take another piece of hose about 3" long, about the same diameter, then cut one side long ways. You can then open it up and rap it around the hose where it's rubbing the bolt. Put a couple of wire ties around it to hold it in place.
thanks for the reply
that was my plan if its just the way it is
this winter i may look into notching the area with my die grinder
My Last issue is the BPV
the blow off sound is ok
the quiet cruise sound is ok (like inside a 747 wearing head cheap headphones)
the other sound.... the one like standing beside a 747 is driving me nuts...
did a search and found nothing definitive except for the people wanting a different but not necessarily quieter sound
what can be done to the BPV in the kit ?
has any one tried a silencer or muffler of some type ?
can it be "tuned" an adjustment or drilling additional holes ?
what straight bolt up BPV is quieter ?
bolt on... add vac hose and done
What BOV (with mods) or BPV can be used with a new flange welded on ?
Most ppl seem to like that sound... I prefer the stealth mode lol
Buy a small K and n type Breather Filter and glue in some Black 1/4" think dence foam rubber. Added about a 6" piece of hose with a steel or aluminum hose adaptor and attach the filter......
01-15-2015, 04:30 PM
I suppose that's the downfall of reading things in text online- context doesn't always come through. I'll try to be more clear next time. 
I stumbled onto this Vortech Faq and i must say that this is the best Vortech FAQ i have seen on the internet! 8 years running, 111+ pages and still growing. Amazing!
