vortech FAQ: read this before asking vortech questions
#1101
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So install day came and my shop being meticulous, called Vortech to see what the best way to do it was.
Vorech said never ever to reroute the BPV into exhaust or intake... can cause back surge. So i left it at that and moved forward.
Jsut an FYI.. the risk didn't seem worth it to me.
#1103
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routing it back to the PRESSURE side of intake would cause problems and i could see where routing it to the exhaust side would have problems too. If the backpressure in the exhaust is greater than the BPV pressure then exhaust gas would build up.
routing it to the intake side of the supercharger will do ZERO harm. I think the tech at vortech mis-understood what you meant by intake. he probably thinks pressure side. Routing to the intake side doesn't do anything because if pressure builds up it will just force it out of the main air filter.
#1104
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oh ya, got the thermo back together.
took the car out with some street tuning. damn it's a beast! spill free funnel got all the air out of my lines and the thermostat is working now.
Hal at injected performance is going to squeeze me in this saturday so i'll have a sweet tune soon. Talk about great customer service.
took the car out with some street tuning. damn it's a beast! spill free funnel got all the air out of my lines and the thermostat is working now.
Hal at injected performance is going to squeeze me in this saturday so i'll have a sweet tune soon. Talk about great customer service.
#1105
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routing it to the intake side of the supercharger will do ZERO harm. I think the tech at vortech mis-understood what you meant by intake. he probably thinks pressure side. Routing to the intake side doesn't do anything because if pressure builds up it will just force it out of the main air filter.
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not really that big of a deal for most applications but if you are looking for all the hp you can get this would be deconstructive to that.
#1107
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lol, i actually haven't tried that method i made up yet. i'm using the original "revised" belt layout from vortech with a standard gtm pulley mod.
for tightness of the serpintine: with belts warm find the longest straight stretch of belt and try to twist the belt upside down. With 2 fingers you should be able to twist the belt 90-180 degrees. I keep mine so i can only twist is 90 degrees. That should be plenty tight.
Then clean off all the belt dust and go drive for a few days and get into boost. Occassionally check to see if you have belt dust. You'll have a little dust, but if you noticed a lot of dust collecting the belt is slipping more than it should.
for tightness of the serpintine: with belts warm find the longest straight stretch of belt and try to twist the belt upside down. With 2 fingers you should be able to twist the belt 90-180 degrees. I keep mine so i can only twist is 90 degrees. That should be plenty tight.
Then clean off all the belt dust and go drive for a few days and get into boost. Occassionally check to see if you have belt dust. You'll have a little dust, but if you noticed a lot of dust collecting the belt is slipping more than it should.
I just want to be sure that i'm running the same setup as you. Esentially I am running the stock setup, with the GTM mod. See attached.
Now is this the same setup you are using to reach 14psi?
#1108
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no, i run the REVISED belt setup from vortech with a gtm pulley in the same place yours is.
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments..._non_revup.gif
You have the old vortech belt layout. They changed that quite a while ago to the revised setup.
it won't make much difference though, the gtm pulley will prevent slip with that config also. if your belts are properly adjusted you should be making around 14psi at 7100 rpms.
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments..._non_revup.gif
You have the old vortech belt layout. They changed that quite a while ago to the revised setup.
it won't make much difference though, the gtm pulley will prevent slip with that config also. if your belts are properly adjusted you should be making around 14psi at 7100 rpms.
#1109
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Unfortunately I am 100 miles away from them and don't plan on going that way anytime soon. When I talked to Rob it sounded like he was worried that someone would copy what he has done. That is just my take on it. I have had people ask why my car is so quite, so it does work.
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Unfortunately I am 100 miles away from them and don't plan on going that way anytime soon. When I talked to Rob it sounded like he was worried that someone would copy what he has done. That is just my take on it. I have had people ask why my car is so quite, so it does work.
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https://my350z.com/forum/drag/464434...ar-movies.html
#1113
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You can check out the sound inside my car with these movies. I forgot that I had them in the drag race section. I think you can tell it is pretty quite even though it is at WOT.
https://my350z.com/forum/drag/464434...ar-movies.html
https://my350z.com/forum/drag/464434...ar-movies.html
nice avatar too btw..
#1116
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no, i run the REVISED belt setup from vortech with a gtm pulley in the same place yours is.
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments..._non_revup.gif
You have the old vortech belt layout. They changed that quite a while ago to the revised setup.
it won't make much difference though, the gtm pulley will prevent slip with that config also. if your belts are properly adjusted you should be making around 14psi at 7100 rpms.
https://my350z.com/forum/attachments..._non_revup.gif
You have the old vortech belt layout. They changed that quite a while ago to the revised setup.
it won't make much difference though, the gtm pulley will prevent slip with that config also. if your belts are properly adjusted you should be making around 14psi at 7100 rpms.
#1118
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i have a few questions about the bypass valve. i looked thru this thread and found this post.
https://my350z.com/forum/7784695-post561.html
so threading in makes the valve close sooner, thus making full boost happen sooner, correct.
also im getting a good amount of whistling at idle and from idle-1400rpms, would adjusting the valve at all help that, or would i need to find something to filter the exhaust on the bypass valve?
currently my valve has about 5 threads showing
https://my350z.com/forum/7784695-post561.html
so threading in makes the valve close sooner, thus making full boost happen sooner, correct.
also im getting a good amount of whistling at idle and from idle-1400rpms, would adjusting the valve at all help that, or would i need to find something to filter the exhaust on the bypass valve?
currently my valve has about 5 threads showing
Last edited by ELMACHOGERACHO; 05-04-2010 at 05:45 PM.
#1119
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i have a few questions about the bypass valve. i looked thru this thread and found this post.
https://my350z.com/forum/7784695-post561.html
so threading in makes the valve close sooner, thus making full boost happen sooner, correct.
also im getting a good amount of whistling at idle and from idle-1400rpms, would adjusting the valve at all help that, or would i need to find something to filter the exhaust on the bypass valve?
currently my valve has about 5 threads showing
https://my350z.com/forum/7784695-post561.html
so threading in makes the valve close sooner, thus making full boost happen sooner, correct.
also im getting a good amount of whistling at idle and from idle-1400rpms, would adjusting the valve at all help that, or would i need to find something to filter the exhaust on the bypass valve?
currently my valve has about 5 threads showing
Let me clear this up first: The BPV has absolutely nothing to do with how fast you build boost. Your car builds boost once the BPV is closed and load is put on the engine so after that BPV is closed all bets are off and it's doing nothing. You build boost based on rpm, not the BPV.
Ok, what the screw does is essentially tighten a spring inside the BPV. So by turning it in you are closing the valve at a lower vacuum.
So say you have it 7 threads showing and when you push on the gas the BPV closes at -1psi. Then you screw it in so there are 5 threads showing and the BPV will close now at -3psi. That's all it does. It won't take away your whistle or anything.
You don't want it closing too soon otherwise it will force the air from the supercharger into the motor and cause it to go a little lean. I've adjusted mine back and forth seeing if it made a difference and truthfully it doesn't make much difference. I just tuned mine so that when i'm normal cruise and get into some hills or something i keep it open. I didn't want it to close too soon so during normal driving it was opening and closing back and forth a bunch.
you have to put a filter of some sort on it to cut down on the noise. The noise is from a large quantity of air moving through a small space. I just used some filter foam and a hose clamp over it to stop it. Works perfectly for me.