Chris@FsP

iTrader: (4)

Bone stock motor, just bolted on the kit and tuned it.

MI 35th

iTrader: (16)

JWT 530 Stock Revup

Haltech tuned by Hal @ Injected
3K miles, 419 WHP @ 405 ft lbs

Right Turbo failed at 3K miles.

dyss

iTrader: (14)

good to know. thanks!

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

How many miles, and honestly...how hard do you drive it?

Always driven at that boost?

Chris@FsP

iTrader: (4)

I just installed it recently, so I'm at ~1000 miles. I haven't tracked the car or taken it deep into the triple digits yet, but I do give the car a thorough workout just about every time I drive it. I have always kept it at the 6.5 psi boost level, too. As soon as I pick up a new daily driver, I plan on re-tuning it for 104 octane and turning up the boost a bit.

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

Mileage and driving habits should be mentioned always in discussions like this.

I had 380-390whp and in 3000 miles kaboom!

Other claim 500+whp on a stock DE - $hit they must drive like ****** or never drive at all you know...one run down the dragstrip Id blow that mother up...

Lcat84

Dis fread is great. Dyss...pm me the name or link of that chic that's your avatar.

As for me...hopefully this upcoming summer I'll be going FI myself. Spoke to Forged, they will do the install and tune, this will be the set up:

Vortech S/C, 600cc injectors with Greddy Ti exhaust, HFC and kintetix plenum -- UTEC -- will be running about 8psi and expect to get 400-410 rwhp.
Updates will come in the future once installed and tuned.

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

Sharif said 8psi will get 400 hp on his dyno? in for that result!

Lcat84

This will be the set up, along with the kinetix manifold.

Vortech Tuner Kit 2003-2006 350Z/G35 w/V-2 SQ SC-Trim & Charge Cooler, Vortech 2.87" 6-Rib Pulley 350Z/G35 TurboXS 350Z/G35 UTEC Engine Management System TUTEC 4 Bar Map Sensor Deatsch Werks 600cc injectors 350Z/G35 WAL GSS342 Fuel Pump 255lph Competition Clutch Stage 4 Clutch Kit Sprung RBF 600 Racing DOT 4 1/2 Liter NGK One Step Colder Spark Plug 350Z/G35 Greddy Turbo Racing Ti-C Z33/Z34 Berk High Flow Catalytic Converters VQ35DE 03-06

They said on the stock engine, with 8-9 psi should get me to 400rwhp

- bigc -

iTrader: (18)

the 2.87 pulley is gonna put you around 10-12 psi if you're just running a catback & HFCs.

Lcat84

dooky...well shows how much I know about FI lol...well I can't promise anything as of now anyway, I don't have the kit, so I'll let everyone know the final numbers once it's on.

MDHRZ

iTrader: (14)

Do you have any vids of your car other than on a dyno? I've only seen one FI HR vid that isn't on the dyno.

bigcloud

iTrader: (7)

I agree Alberto! I want to know how hard some people drive their cars!! Some important criteria:

1. Do you Rev-Match ALL the time?
2. Do you Whomp on the gears ALL the time?
3. Do you take turns hard AND in the peak power band of your kit?
4. Do you drive your car EVERYDAY?

Just some thoughts. I drive my car hard, but I'm N/A this is what scares me just a little when if comes to going FI. I don't want to put stock block FI then drive like I drive now and Kaboom!! The same with a built motor.

Alberto how did your driving habits change from N/A to FI? Thanks!!

:ico n21:

Highway Riding

iTrader: (6)

[QUOTE=bigcloud;7965665]I agree Alberto! I want to know how hard some people drive their cars!! Some important criteria:

1. Do you Rev-Match ALL the time?
2. Do you Whomp on the gears ALL the time?
3. Do you take turns hard AND in the peak power band of your kit?
4. Do you drive your car EVERYDAY?

What you describe above is daily driving in a Z with the exception of #4. Adjusting they way you drive would be no fun at all and a shame..

bigcloud

iTrader: (7)

[QUOTE=Highway Riding;7965983]You're absolutely right Highway Riding!!

Chris@FsP

iTrader: (4)

No, I'm sorry I don't have any more vids at this time.

Chef-J

iTrader: (58)

Not with that high flow cat. And 2.87 will puts you down little more psi. And 400whp is little hard on Foged performance's dyno but number isn't matter, you will be happy with the result for sure.

pooch15

Jim Wolf TT on a 2006 with a new replacement Rev-up engine producing 418 whp, 440 wtq @ 8.5 psi.

Injectors (440) exhaust (Borla TD) clutch and flywheel upgraded, all else stock.

Driven for two summers (maybe 11K miles) and everything still perfect except for oil consumption which was there before modification.

niZam

+1 Sticky


I see some engines running over 10psi, +450whp lasting for many miles and even abused on the track that don't fail.

At the same time there are engines that fail well under the 400whp level at 6-8 psi. This isn't very consistent. WTF

This leads me to assume the VG35DE is very sensitive to detonation. This explains the bent rods, it sounds like everything else in the engine is fairly strong.

Things that can cause detonation:

Crappy fuel-You need a higher octane to increase the combustion temperatures which lowers the chance of igniting pockets of air outside of the flame front. The type of fuel also makes a difference: Branched chain vs straight chain paraffins.

Bad Timing- Duh. Can anyone chime in on how much retard or advance the engine likes and doesn't like under boost ?

Poor turbulence in the combustion chamber- This is a big one and I think a huge factor with the VG. I personally do not like the design of the intake system of the engine. There are too many direction changes which slow down air and disrupt natural turbulence. Hopefully someone with a little more experience can chime in on this. Compare the intake system of the VG to the RB for instance. The RB is a straight forward design, straighter flow means faster air with more turbulence. Better turbulence=better air fuel mixture=less detonation.


The engines are technically the same yet some fail far before others. This could be due to many factors, maintenance ect. I think its out of the range of a "factory freak" possibility due to the fact that all the rods are pretty close to exactly the same.


We should turn to ways to reduce detonation on this engine when going FI.

Running a little richer
Pulling timing/Retard
Good quality gas/high octane- I use only Shell because of its quality control.
Spark plugs that burn hotter
Changing the intake system/lower/upper collector for something with a straighter flow to induce more turbulence.
Water injection to help the cooling of cylinder temps. These systems are relatively cheap?


Lets keep this thread going. As someone who's interested in boosting on a stock car, I want more knowledge and input.

Sylvan Lake V35

iTrader: (23)

Spark plugs than burn hotter are more likely to cause detonation. I personally use plugs that are 2 ranges colder than stock, but for a boosted stock block 1 range colder would be fine. Water/meth would help a stock block stay cool/avoid detonation. The intakes that straighten out the air flow line are very expensive for a person running a stock block, As far as I know only SFR and CJM make such a part and they are over $2k. The other things are common sense about the tune run lean or too far advanced and you are asking for trouble on any engine.


Oh and its a VQ not a VG, VG was 1984-2004 it was replaced by the VQ.