Update on the Brian Crower Stroker kit.
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Update on the Brian Crower Stroker kit.
Just wanted to update everyone on some issues we discovered with the Brian Crower stroker kit.
We have been working on the 86.4 mm stroker kit, the one that is supposed to be able to retain the oil squirters and have no clearance issues according to Brian Crower and his technitians. Well after assembling the crank and dropping in the rods, we found thus far that the main girdle needs to be clearanced for the rod bolts, they hit.. We only got a 10 degree rotation in one direction before the rod bolts hit and stopped rotation. We rotated 10 degrees the other direction and found that the pistons that were supposed to clear the oil squirters, do not clear the oil squirters.
So now were off to dissasemble the mains and come up with a fix for removing the oil squirters from the block, we never did it, so Im not sure if we should utilize a spacer to fill up the gap, or find a shorter bolt.
We really wish we had been advised this would be an issue prior to assembly. We did ask about this prior to purchase and were told ther was no machining like this needed.
The valves we purchased from him came with a little notation that they may be a bit tight in the guides and some light honing was needed, so we did so to make them fit perfect.The crank however came with ZERO instructions on what to remove or machine for clearance.
So basically we just did Brian Crowers R&D for him at a cost of $60 per hour that I pay my engine builder..
We contacted Brian Crower in regards to the issue, and we are awaiting his reply eagerly. If this is a common issue , he needs to be made aware of it and supply the required machining instructions with the kit.
We have been working on the 86.4 mm stroker kit, the one that is supposed to be able to retain the oil squirters and have no clearance issues according to Brian Crower and his technitians. Well after assembling the crank and dropping in the rods, we found thus far that the main girdle needs to be clearanced for the rod bolts, they hit.. We only got a 10 degree rotation in one direction before the rod bolts hit and stopped rotation. We rotated 10 degrees the other direction and found that the pistons that were supposed to clear the oil squirters, do not clear the oil squirters.
So now were off to dissasemble the mains and come up with a fix for removing the oil squirters from the block, we never did it, so Im not sure if we should utilize a spacer to fill up the gap, or find a shorter bolt.
We really wish we had been advised this would be an issue prior to assembly. We did ask about this prior to purchase and were told ther was no machining like this needed.
The valves we purchased from him came with a little notation that they may be a bit tight in the guides and some light honing was needed, so we did so to make them fit perfect.The crank however came with ZERO instructions on what to remove or machine for clearance.
So basically we just did Brian Crowers R&D for him at a cost of $60 per hour that I pay my engine builder..
We contacted Brian Crower in regards to the issue, and we are awaiting his reply eagerly. If this is a common issue , he needs to be made aware of it and supply the required machining instructions with the kit.
Last edited by Julian@MRC; 06-03-2007 at 07:03 PM.
#2
Quick Question: Will the built engine with a SC or a TT past the emissions in Calif. I know the Vortech SC is carb Cert and by itself no problem, but what about the Stroker Kit or built engine?
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Originally Posted by WSchli1672
Quick Question: Will the built engine with a SC or a TT past the emissions in Calif. I know the Vortech SC is carb Cert and by itself no problem, but what about the Stroker Kit or built engine?
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Originally Posted by WSchli1672
Quick Question: Will the built engine with a SC or a TT past the emissions in Calif. I know the Vortech SC is carb Cert and by itself no problem, but what about the Stroker Kit or built engine?
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So, from the machining and extra work that has to be done, would you say go with sleeves or this stroker kit?
(or is it too early to tell? heheh)
Kind of sucks that they either didn't do the necessary documentation or R&D for this kit.. I thought Crower was supposed to be a more reputable name for kits (at least fords and stuff? hah?)
(or is it too early to tell? heheh)
Kind of sucks that they either didn't do the necessary documentation or R&D for this kit.. I thought Crower was supposed to be a more reputable name for kits (at least fords and stuff? hah?)
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Originally Posted by meatbag
I don't see why BC keeps telling people that the stroker kit will work without modifications and yet it requires machining to get it to work. Do they not know what they are manufacturing.
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Originally Posted by rythex
So, from the machining and extra work that has to be done, would you say go with sleeves or this stroker kit?
(or is it too early to tell? heheh)
Kind of sucks that they either didn't do the necessary documentation or R&D for this kit.. I thought Crower was supposed to be a more reputable name for kits (at least fords and stuff? hah?)
(or is it too early to tell? heheh)
Kind of sucks that they either didn't do the necessary documentation or R&D for this kit.. I thought Crower was supposed to be a more reputable name for kits (at least fords and stuff? hah?)
Another option would be the GTM stroker, which has been completed and proven.
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Originally Posted by MRC Motorsports
I would say, screw the stroker..Sleeve the motor, increase bore size and shoot for getting the lightest components you can find, with a Titanium valve train, and shoot for RPM instead of stroke..
Another option would be the GTM stroker, which has been completed and proven.
Another option would be the GTM stroker, which has been completed and proven.
GTM Stroker kit FTW! I am doing with the GTM 3.8L on my build because I still wanted it to be a revver, hence I didn't opt for the 4.2l. Either one is a great choice, and as Julian stated this is a PROVEN kit in more than a FEW cars...
-George
GT Motorsports
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Originally Posted by MRC Motorsports
I would say, screw the stroker..Sleeve the motor, increase bore size and shoot for getting the lightest components you can find, with a Titanium valve train, and shoot for RPM instead of stroke..
Another option would be the GTM stroker, which has been completed and proven.
Another option would be the GTM stroker, which has been completed and proven.
Julian when you see this crank you are going to want it .and it will fit and you get to keep the oil squirters
we will have the press release by the end of this week and the test results of a running car with this STROKER kit .
stay tuned
Sam
GT MOTORSPORTS
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Originally Posted by Sam@GTM
We will be introducing our new line of STROKER kit that is a direct drop in, this STROKER kit has a newly design crankshaft (87 mm stroke) that is about 5 found lighter than the factory crank,and it has a high speed oiling system .since our main goal with this crank is to rev to 8000 rpm .
Julian when you see this crank you are going to want it .and it will fit and you get to keep the oil squirters
we will have the press release by the end of this week and the test results of a running car with this STROKER kit .
stay tuned
Sam
GT MOTORSPORTS
Julian when you see this crank you are going to want it .and it will fit and you get to keep the oil squirters
we will have the press release by the end of this week and the test results of a running car with this STROKER kit .
stay tuned
Sam
GT MOTORSPORTS
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Originally Posted by MRC Motorsports
I would say, screw the stroker..Sleeve the motor, increase bore size and shoot for getting the lightest components you can find, with a Titanium valve train, and shoot for RPM instead of stroke..
Another option would be the GTM stroker, which has been completed and proven.
Another option would be the GTM stroker, which has been completed and proven.
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Here are some pictures of the clearance issues.Note in the first picture the rod bolt hits the aluminum main assembly. This piece needs to be notched about 30-45 thousandths. We dont know if other side will clear as we were unable to turn the crank in the other direction due to the piston hitting the oil squirters as seen in the second picture. Obviously removing the oil squirters is no big deal, but it would have been nice to be given the correct information from the manufacturer prior to assembling the main and rods...
Last edited by Mike Wazowski; 06-20-2008 at 01:05 PM.
#15
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Yes, the girdle does have clearance issues. We notched our first one, before getting a new billet unit made to bolt on for added strength and to clear the stroker cranks.
We have them in stock if you want to save yourself some trouble and add support rather than grind it away
http://injectedperformance.com/ViewP...ID=7794&VID=36
In this pic, you can see the oem one notched to clear vs billet one:
And here it is installed:
We have them in stock if you want to save yourself some trouble and add support rather than grind it away
http://injectedperformance.com/ViewP...ID=7794&VID=36
In this pic, you can see the oem one notched to clear vs billet one:
And here it is installed:
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Originally Posted by Hal@IP
Yes, the girdle does have clearance issues. We notched our first one, before getting a new billet unit made to bolt on for added strength and to clear the stroker cranks.
We have them in stock if you want to save yourself some trouble and add support rather than grind it away
http://injectedperformance.com/ViewP...ID=7794&VID=36
In this pic, you can see the oem one notched to clear vs billet one:
And here it is installed:
We have them in stock if you want to save yourself some trouble and add support rather than grind it away
http://injectedperformance.com/ViewP...ID=7794&VID=36
In this pic, you can see the oem one notched to clear vs billet one:
And here it is installed:
#19
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449 wow thats a lot of money for that.
cool that you are making it, i would rather grind the stock one down a bit if it is just a little bit that it is hitting.
appreciate your honesty julian, great to see some of us telling the truth instead of trying to BS everyone into buying stuff...
cool that you are making it, i would rather grind the stock one down a bit if it is just a little bit that it is hitting.
appreciate your honesty julian, great to see some of us telling the truth instead of trying to BS everyone into buying stuff...
#20
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Originally Posted by Audible Mayhem
449 wow thats a lot of money for that.
cool that you are making it, i would rather grind the stock one down a bit if it is just a little bit that it is hitting.
appreciate your honesty julian, great to see some of us telling the truth instead of trying to BS everyone into buying stuff...
cool that you are making it, i would rather grind the stock one down a bit if it is just a little bit that it is hitting.
appreciate your honesty julian, great to see some of us telling the truth instead of trying to BS everyone into buying stuff...