APS Oil Pan Plug Thread Stripped!
unless the Greddy has an insert for the threaded portions, at some point it can happen to it too
I think the fumoto valve is the 'cure all' for this long term issue
I think the fumoto valve is the 'cure all' for this long term issue
http://www.fumotousa.com/
with online ordering through
http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com
I bought one for each of my 3 cars. Much nicer changing oil with no tools and no worry about overtightening that bolt or getting another crush washer
Well I guess for the Z/G you still need a power screwdriver for the zillion undercarriage baffle bolts.
with online ordering through
http://www.quickoildrainvalve.com
I bought one for each of my 3 cars. Much nicer changing oil with no tools and no worry about overtightening that bolt or getting another crush washer
Well I guess for the Z/G you still need a power screwdriver for the zillion undercarriage baffle bolts.
Originally Posted by Abishop
well guys i have another problem, my installer used a Hi temp rtv silicone gasket maker to seal the pan to the engine, its like glued on! any suggestions?
you need to use something gentle to pry on it. I suggest using a razor knife to cut through the seal, and then use your pry tool to separate the pan.
This works pretty good, I have one on my Titan. http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...50898_-1_11597
I have done a drain plug repair once on a honda Insight I owned, the oil pan was integrated into the block and replacement included pulling the engine. The repair kit included a special tap that used the damaged threads to pull a cutter thru the hole and then cut new threads. I covered the tool with grease to try and catch shavings and afterwards dumped a few quarts of clean oil thru the engine. After that the kit comes with a set of inserts of different lenghts that thread into the new hole, covered the outside of it with hi-temp rtv threaded it in and then peened it with a special tool that came with it.
The repair worked flawlessly and left me with steel threads that were way stronger than the factory aluminum that gall very easy. I think the cost was around 30 bucks. Sav-A-Thread kit.
I have done a drain plug repair once on a honda Insight I owned, the oil pan was integrated into the block and replacement included pulling the engine. The repair kit included a special tap that used the damaged threads to pull a cutter thru the hole and then cut new threads. I covered the tool with grease to try and catch shavings and afterwards dumped a few quarts of clean oil thru the engine. After that the kit comes with a set of inserts of different lenghts that thread into the new hole, covered the outside of it with hi-temp rtv threaded it in and then peened it with a special tool that came with it.
The repair worked flawlessly and left me with steel threads that were way stronger than the factory aluminum that gall very easy. I think the cost was around 30 bucks. Sav-A-Thread kit.
Last edited by fklentz; Oct 9, 2007 at 05:58 PM.
Originally Posted by Abishop
^ seems to me it would hang down to low and potentially get whacked off if you were to run over something with a low clearance.
Especially if you're lowered? Looks like it would hit debris or the ground going over bumps.
Last edited by bb319675; Feb 28, 2008 at 09:09 PM.
it might be an issue on the APS pan if you are really low. on a stock or greddy pan, the drain hole is angle on the side of the pan. There are no issues with using the Fumoto on those pans.
I'll have to look at the APS we have at the shop. On my ARC one, there were 2 holes, one on either side of the pan. One is at an angle (that's the one I stripped!), the other is on the side of the pan (where the valve now resides) and its worked out great so far. The entire pan is covered by the underpanel (I have the ARC one so its a bit stronger than the stock plastic I suppose). Not to mention it also has the odd rectangular shape built into it at the front section (so if it is to rub the ground, that's the area that hits, not where the pan is). When I had the stripped bolt issue, I simply drained the oil out, retapped the hole by hand, and threaded in a larger shallow bolt and rubber washer. From there I measured the hole on the other side of the pan, and ordered the appropriate Fumoto. Since the underpanel has to come off for oil changes anyway, it's no different doing oil changes now (actually the valve makes alot less mess!)
Even on the APS, I wouldn't worry about the valve. It is really shallow in design and even as low as my car is (lower than most), the area where the pan sits is far from being the lowest spot on the car.
Why none of these companies had the forsight to use a steel threaded insert is beyond me - how much could it have already added to a piece that's overpriced to begin with?
Even on the APS, I wouldn't worry about the valve. It is really shallow in design and even as low as my car is (lower than most), the area where the pan sits is far from being the lowest spot on the car.
Why none of these companies had the forsight to use a steel threaded insert is beyond me - how much could it have already added to a piece that's overpriced to begin with?
Originally Posted by Abishop
^ seems to me it would hang down to low and potentially get whacked off if you were to run over something with a low clearance.
Last edited by gothchick; Feb 29, 2008 at 09:09 AM.
Adam, I had it at my place and I took some pics this morning
Based on the pictures below, after the valve is threaded into the oil pan it won't hang down much lower than the cooling fins on the oil pan. Ground clearance is something I will not be worried about and I plan to have my car slammed.
Based on the pictures below, after the valve is threaded into the oil pan it won't hang down much lower than the cooling fins on the oil pan. Ground clearance is something I will not be worried about and I plan to have my car slammed.