Sticking clutch pedal with Carbonetics Triple Carbon Clutch on FI G/Z
04-07-2009, 06:22 PM
#41
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Well guys I tested out the car last night. My clutch needed the bleed regardless. Like I said when I did the bleeding on the clutch I opened the bleeding valve all the way to just dump all the old liquid out.
Then I poured the new stuff with the valve still open until I saw some of it come out. Then closed up the valve and started to bleed my system.
Now what I noticed was that it didn’t take much time for the clutch to catch pressure after a couple of repetitions of bleeding. So I just did it like 5 more times and put everything back together.
Now for the test drive I must say that it felt like a different world the clutch was very smooth and I ran it hard a few times in the highway then went to the local blocks and did some stop to stop driving the clutch felt fine at times it stiffen up a bit but the 1st gear take off 95 percent of the time was smooth like butter. But what im thinking about is that the bleeding I didn’t do a really good bleeding job it was a quick one so sometime this week ill bleed the clutch again.
But to my conclusion the liquid really does help. At least in my opinion. Now like golfin z says a MC might just be the answer no one really knows another thing ima do is get some heat reflector wrapping that shinny stuff that looks like foil paper and wrap the line in it so see if that keeps it cooler also just a thought and not expensive so might as well give it a try.
Ill do more testing in the next few days
Then I poured the new stuff with the valve still open until I saw some of it come out. Then closed up the valve and started to bleed my system.
Now what I noticed was that it didn’t take much time for the clutch to catch pressure after a couple of repetitions of bleeding. So I just did it like 5 more times and put everything back together.
Now for the test drive I must say that it felt like a different world the clutch was very smooth and I ran it hard a few times in the highway then went to the local blocks and did some stop to stop driving the clutch felt fine at times it stiffen up a bit but the 1st gear take off 95 percent of the time was smooth like butter. But what im thinking about is that the bleeding I didn’t do a really good bleeding job it was a quick one so sometime this week ill bleed the clutch again.
But to my conclusion the liquid really does help. At least in my opinion. Now like golfin z says a MC might just be the answer no one really knows another thing ima do is get some heat reflector wrapping that shinny stuff that looks like foil paper and wrap the line in it so see if that keeps it cooler also just a thought and not expensive so might as well give it a try.
Ill do more testing in the next few days
The RBF600 did not work for me though as the problem came back after a while, but then I live in a tropical country and we see track surface temperatures of 120 degrees
So far, the SRF have held up well for me
Here is a pic of my car at the track. It is an incidental pic as the main subject is the Gallardo
04-07-2009, 06:55 PM
#43
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Well i just finish driving the car and at first for a while the pedal was nice, firm and smooth but it started to get stiff/sticky after a very long time about 30 minutes of driving non stop highway and stop and go mixed i made 3rd gear pulls let off i wasnt going to be driving like i was in a track i just wanted to create heat in the system downshifting and all then once i hit the blocks got good redlights and some south beach slow stop and go traffic. BUt again i would say im going to rebleed it cause im almost dead positive that i have some air/ moisture in it. But the fluid definately does make a big difference. The 1st gear take off has definately improved alot even when system is heated. I definately say we're going to have to look into big MC's i searched in the supra forums but didnt have much luck ill make a thread in their to see what i get from the guys using the carbonetics supra set up and what fluid and master cylinder they are using.
04-07-2009, 07:08 PM
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Well i just finish driving the car and at first for a while the pedal was nice, firm and smooth but it started to get stiff/sticky after a very long time about 30 minutes of driving non stop highway and stop and go mixed i made 3rd gear pulls let off i wasnt going to be driving like i was in a track i just wanted to create heat in the system downshifting and all then once i hit the blocks got good redlights and some south beach slow stop and go traffic. BUt again i would say im going to rebleed it cause im almost dead positive that i have some air/ moisture in it. But the fluid definately does make a big difference. The 1st gear take off has definately improved alot even when system is heated. I definately say we're going to have to look into big MC's i searched in the supra forums but didnt have much luck ill make a thread in their to see what i get from the guys using the carbonetics supra set up and what fluid and master cylinder they are using.
The important thing is to make sure that there is no mix of the old fluid with the RBF600.
When I decided to use the SRF, I bought 2 liter worth of it and used 1 liter just to flush the system. This includes a lot of clutch and brake pedal pumping
Then I used the 2nd bottle of SRF to completely replace the 1st bottle that just went in.
I recycled the SRF that was flushed out by replacing the brake fluids in my other 2 non modified cars
Like I said before, the SRF is expensive, but for me, it is worth it as it got rid of my clutch pedal issue and as a bonus, my brakes are more resistant to brake fade now.
Last edited by discom; 04-07-2009 at 07:11 PM.
04-07-2009, 07:17 PM
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I never really got around to taking pics of my car as the front bumper is always pitted due to all those high speed runs
But I just resprayed the bumper, so I'll see if I can get a few pics.
04-07-2009, 07:21 PM
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I have a regular MC. But I know my lines need way more bleeding the fact is that it has improved alot. Now what I was reading at tick performance is that with the upgraded tilton MC they also heat wrap their hydraulic line. So like I said ima re bleed it and heat wrap the line. If this does not cure it I will definitely upgrade MC and upgrade to the SRF fluid I just wanted to see if the motul 600 would do the job. Im going to continue searching this clutches are great I think we really need the MC to reduce the temps the fluid aids but cant do all the work by itself.
I am almost sure that you don't have to upgrade the MC.
The important thing is to make sure that there is no mix of the old fluid with the RBF600.
When I decided to use the SRF, I bought 2 liter worth of it and used 1 liter just to flush the system. This includes a lot of clutch and brake pedal pumping
Then I used the 2nd bottle of SRF to completely replace the 1st bottle that just went in.
I recycled the SRF that was flushed out by replacing the brake fluids in my other 2 non modified cars
Like I said before, the SRF is expensive, but for me, it is worth it as it got rid of my clutch pedal issue and as a bonus, my brakes are more resistant to brake fade now.
The important thing is to make sure that there is no mix of the old fluid with the RBF600.
When I decided to use the SRF, I bought 2 liter worth of it and used 1 liter just to flush the system. This includes a lot of clutch and brake pedal pumping
Then I used the 2nd bottle of SRF to completely replace the 1st bottle that just went in.
I recycled the SRF that was flushed out by replacing the brake fluids in my other 2 non modified cars
Like I said before, the SRF is expensive, but for me, it is worth it as it got rid of my clutch pedal issue and as a bonus, my brakes are more resistant to brake fade now.
04-07-2009, 07:57 PM
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I have a regular MC. But I know my lines need way more bleeding the fact is that it has improved alot. Now what I was reading at tick performance is that with the upgraded tilton MC they also heat wrap their hydraulic line. So like I said ima re bleed it and heat wrap the line. If this does not cure it I will definitely upgrade MC and upgrade to the SRF fluid I just wanted to see if the motul 600 would do the job. Im going to continue searching this clutches are great I think we really need the MC to reduce the temps the fluid aids but cant do all the work by itself.
Or better yet, if someone has a stock MC laying around, try drilling out the bore on the MC so that it will flow more...see if that helps. A lot of camaro/f body guys have done this until tick came out with their MC kit
04-07-2009, 08:30 PM
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ima hit up tilton to see what they say and ima ask if one of their MC can be adapted into the 350z clutch system without carzy modification. ima try to get an answer by this weekend.
04-07-2009, 09:56 PM
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I have a regular MC. But I know my lines need way more bleeding the fact is that it has improved alot. Now what I was reading at tick performance is that with the upgraded tilton MC they also heat wrap their hydraulic line. So like I said ima re bleed it and heat wrap the line. If this does not cure it I will definitely upgrade MC and upgrade to the SRF fluid I just wanted to see if the motul 600 would do the job. Im going to continue searching this clutches are great I think we really need the MC to reduce the temps the fluid aids but cant do all the work by itself.
Good luck on the MC upgrade, I was looking to go that path too until my clutch issues were solved. Please share if there is an appropriate MC upgrade that solves your problems
04-08-2009, 12:04 AM
#50
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Well i just finish driving the car and at first for a while the pedal was nice, firm and smooth but it started to get stiff/sticky after a very long time about 30 minutes of driving non stop highway and stop and go mixed i made 3rd gear pulls let off i wasnt going to be driving like i was in a track i just wanted to create heat in the system downshifting and all then once i hit the blocks got good redlights and some south beach slow stop and go traffic. BUt again i would say im going to rebleed it cause im almost dead positive that i have some air/ moisture in it. But the fluid definately does make a big difference. The 1st gear take off has definately improved alot even when system is heated. I definately say we're going to have to look into big MC's i searched in the supra forums but didnt have much luck ill make a thread in their to see what i get from the guys using the carbonetics supra set up and what fluid and master cylinder they are using.
Just keep bleeding it....I promise you it will work....I had the same problem. You will NOT need to upgrade the MC.
04-08-2009, 01:23 AM
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yeah ima keep rebleeding till im positive their is no more air if not ill hit up tilton to see what they say and to see if they have anything.
Last edited by Fairlady_z33; 04-08-2009 at 01:26 AM.
04-08-2009, 03:31 PM
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Reoccuring Clutch pedal return issue
From experience, the temporary fix was replace the worn part (MC or slave cylinder) and fill with new clutch fluid. I wil have to try the Castrol SRF fluid. I'll try changing the clutch fluid sooner to see it that is a temporary fix though.
Typically, the problem re-occurs in approx. 25,000 - 30,000 daily driven miles with the first problem bing the slave cylinder. This could be due to the dust coming from the clutch promoting the environment to trap water in the clutch fluid over time from what I have read on other forums.
Has anyone found a more permanent solution/experience to this problem other than replacing the MC with a larger bore or using Castrol SRF fluild?
04-08-2009, 06:02 PM
#54
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I had the problem when I first had the Carbonetics triple disc clutch insalled...thats over a year ago....After bleeding the system MANY times...the problem has not returned....on track or off.
04-08-2009, 06:27 PM
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Yep; I have this re-occurring clutch pedal return problem on some of my nissan cars equipped with a manual transmission on 240SX, 350Z models.
From experience, the temporary fix was replace the worn part (MC or slave cylinder) and fill with new clutch fluid. I wil have to try the Castrol SRF fluid. I'll try changing the clutch fluid sooner to see it that is a temporary fix though.
Typically, the problem re-occurs in approx. 25,000 - 30,000 daily driven miles with the first problem bing the slave cylinder. This could be due to the dust coming from the clutch promoting the environment to trap water in the clutch fluid over time from what I have read on other forums.
Has anyone found a more permanent solution/experience to this problem other than replacing the MC with a larger bore or using Castrol SRF fluild?
From experience, the temporary fix was replace the worn part (MC or slave cylinder) and fill with new clutch fluid. I wil have to try the Castrol SRF fluid. I'll try changing the clutch fluid sooner to see it that is a temporary fix though.
Typically, the problem re-occurs in approx. 25,000 - 30,000 daily driven miles with the first problem bing the slave cylinder. This could be due to the dust coming from the clutch promoting the environment to trap water in the clutch fluid over time from what I have read on other forums.
Has anyone found a more permanent solution/experience to this problem other than replacing the MC with a larger bore or using Castrol SRF fluild?
Hell, it took the vette/fbody/camaro world years to figure this out. My first recommendation, and a cheap one, would be to have someone with a used stock MC lying around (most likely a shop), have them bore it out to see if you can help it flow more fluid. I don't know how you could test one to see if it flows more without it being in the car, but maybe a more knowledgeable person could.
edit: clutch dust is a HUGE reason why the vette/fbody/camaro guys get sticky clutches
Anyways, thats my blurb on tryin to help out my past Z/G guys, hopefully the problem gets fixed...I miss my 350...
04-09-2009, 04:46 AM
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Hey guys ive been asking in the supra forums and so far no one has this issue with the carbonetics or any other triple twin set up. This kinda makes you wonder whats the issue here. On top that the MC in the nissans have had their reputation for not been good. Ill be bleeding my system really good today or tommorow and wrap my line in heat wrapping to see if it helps out but we might have to end up looking at this MC cylinder. But i do have faith in the Z members that have fixed the issue. Update this weekend.
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