For anyone looking for large caps, I found a place that sells better quality caps in a assortment of sizes at a good bulk price than your local auto stores.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#rubber-caps/

Look under "Resilient Rubber Caps". Two options:
"Chemical Resistant—Turn to these EPDM caps for excellent protective covers when plating, masking, and finishing. Durometer hardness is 40A-70A. Maximum temperature is 475° F for 10 minutes. Color is black.

High Temperature—Made of silicone to withstand temperatures up to 600° F for 10 minutes. Durometer hardness is 50A-60A. Color is red."

Found it off the rx7 forums:
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=928572

I grabbed an assortment of 1/2, 9/16, 5/8, and 11/16 as this is the common nipple sizes I've seen on the Z.

 

Sorry to revive an old thread, but if you don't want to go though buying new parts and welding, I just did this over the weekend using less than $10. I used about 4 feet of 5/8" heater hose, 2 hose clamps, and less than 1 gallon of antifreeze (I just used distilled water cause I needed a coolant flush anyway). Just connect the hose from where the ports of the coolant come out. I also used a zip tie and secured the hose to the front sway bar.

When refilling the lost coolant, just remember to use the coolant bleeder screw so there isn't any air in the coolant. Total time was about about 30 minutes to an hour. Also, using a hose removal tool also makes this job really easy.

 

So I finally got this finished and I ended up modifying previous techniques a little bit.

I used:

-HR Thermostat
-Extended M6 Stainless bolts from Mcmaster Carr (longer by the difference of thermostat thickness)
-HR filter stud

This was my major break-through which is sealing the passenger side hard pipe without welding or using a rubber cap that will eventually fail.

-Cut the bead rolled part off of the hard tube where the coolant goes to the oem cooler. (Only cut off 1/4-3/8" from the pipe) So when cut there is still a long protrusion but no bead on it.

Use a "Yor-Lok" pipe compression fitting from Mcmaster Carr found here: http://http://www.mcmaster.com/#stan...ttings/=l9yt9w These are rated for hydraulic pressures of something like 3000 psi. Use teflon tape on the sealing threads.

Reinstall pipe.

Also the bolt behind the A/C compressor can be removed without removing the compressor, however you will have to cut the head off the bolt once it is threaded out to completely remove it.

So, no drilling, no tapping, no welding, no extra hoses.

 

I used one of these to cap off the hardpipe port and the HR T-stat as you mentioned.

Only source I've ever found that has these type caps in Heavy duty Silicon instead of crappy rubber.


http://www.autosiliconehoses.com/sil...m-to-32mm.html

 

your link doesnt work...but im looking at catalog page180 and see the yor-lok's.....so, i see you just mouted one of those on the end, what size? and did you just use the CAP and just close it off...

any pics???

-J

 

Sorry I thought that link would work. Mcmaster part number is "5929K246". It is a 1/2" Steel Yor-Lok fitting for "tubing". Meaning that it has a collet that is crush fitted to the pipe and held in by two different threaded pieces. (Check out the CAD drawings for that part number it will make much more sense.)

It is more than a cap. Again check out that part number and the associated CAD.

Also, the new length of screw needed for the HR Thermostat is 35mm. This is the closest size that adds the approximate thickness difference between DE and HR.

 

^ soo soo nice..

Great find, great option for sure...

pics for reference for all:


-J

 

Hi guys. Im really sorry for beeing a Noob.. But my english is to bad to go thrue 16 pages to get an answer.

What do i need to remove the oilcooler? I allready have a new one installed and a GReddy sandwith where i connect my gauges.

 

With respect to :

"GReddy sandwith"

Especially since you may operate in a colder climate , you really should consider an alternative sandwich adapter....one with and integrated thermostat (180F or higher).

For example:

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...andwich_Plates

either :

MOC-SP1FT
or
MOC-SP1FT-HT

 

As i said. bad english =)

I never drive my car when its cold and i never rev it if the oil is under 80 celcius.

So thats no problem. But do i need anything to fill up the space for the factory oilcooler.. any spacer.. bolt or screw?

 

Lot's of info on this , but basically three parts.

a) remove the warmer plate (between oil filter and block) and replace with
a new sandwich , you can use the greddy , but I recommend you use one with an integrated thermostat (180F or more).

b) remove the water line going to the hard pipe on the passenger side. There are several ways to cap this. I used a silicon cap plug (these are hard to find). Some people weld them shut and others hack a part of the nipple off and use a compression fitting with cap.

c) remove the water line going to the thermostat housing and cap that. The are several ways to cap this. The "cleanest" is to substitute in an HR -Tstat.

 

What is the purpose of the part "Plug" 7 ?

Thanks for help

 

So you can delete the oil cooler/warmer. The shank diamiter of the stock one is to small for a oil sandwich and to long to use with just a oil filter. I can take pics of my spare set to explain when I get home.

 

In fact I would like to delete the oil cooler/warmer from my VQ35HR, I already oder the "connector bolt", and I wonder the use of this part, as I can't find it in Europe...
Thank you for your help to understand Sradenton

 

[QUOTE=FastGreg;10121402]In fact I would like to delete the oil cooler/warmer from my VQ35HR, I already oder the "connector bolt", and I wonder the use of this part, as I can't find it in Europe...
Thank you for your help to understand Sradenton [/QUOTE

your car is a VQ35HR and has a oil cooler/warmer? this thread is for Vq35de

 

[QUOTE=sradenton;10121418]Yes, and I also want to delet the oil cooler/warmer...

 

the point he is making is the HR dint come with it from the factory, at least not in the states. so if you have one on there we cant help. since what we do is order the oil filter stud from the HR since it comes without the cooler/warmer. did you actually look to see if its actually there? as far as your original question i would have to look at the pan again when i do the oil change but its not something you have to touch when deleting the cooler/warmer.

 

+1 Ive never heard of a Vq35HR having a oil cooler/warmer. Here a couple pics I took

Stock VQ35DE stud


The reason why you need the VQ35HR oil filter stud. The shank is way to thin to use with a oil filter block and to long to use with just a filter.


The VQ35HR filter stud


VQ35HR filter stud installed on a VQ35DE. You can see why you will need.

 

I'm assuming those are the caps your currently using. How well have they held up?

 

been using caps from these guys these for over a year and about 10k miles , no problems.

http://www.autosiliconehoses.com/cat...result/?q=caps